Crank stud mod question? possible problem.

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  1. #1

    Default Crank stud mod question? possible problem.

    The stud seems to be too short, its not long enough to be covered by the full length of the nut, not sure why. I have the stud bottomed out in the crank, its lightly finger tight with an allen. I thought maybe I didn't have the balancer pressed on all the way but the hub seems to be on as far as it will go. Ive done this before and it looks like its on all the way, Ive done it with both a stock balance and an ATI balancer meant for a factory crank pulley/cage. It shouldn't matter that this is a different Ati balancer meant for a Metco pulley. The crank is a Winberg, the Crank gear is from the ol man at Accufab, its machined to fit the radius on the crank snout, the crank sensor gear is also Accu. I took some measurements on my stock short block to compare the distance or thickness of components on the stock terminator crankshaft+gear+crank trigger gear and its within 10 thousands of this new motor setup, which is probably just the inaccuracy of me trying to measure quickly with calipers. I also took measurements seen in the photos to show the distance from the front of the timing cover to the front face of the balancer. The crank stud, nut and washer are part numbers I got from here. Anyone got any Idea's Hopefully I didn't install something incorrectly I'd hate to have to take the timing cover off again, but usually 5th times the charm with everything for me.

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    Hello Ed are you out there?
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  3. #2

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    Matt,

    It looks like the stud hole was drilled and tapped a little too deep into the snout. Here is what the snout looks like with the proper depth hole, the stud in place and bottomed out;

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    This is what yours looks like;

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    Notice on my crank the stud has shank that appears above the frontmost face of the crank snout. Yours does not. Several threads appear to be down in the snout. This is part of the problem. That can be corrected by putting a small ball bearing down the stud hole in the snout of the crank to space the stud up a bit. There should be 1.250 inches of thread above the crank snout face plus a small amount for the exposed unthreaded stud shoulder.

    The rest of your problem is the aftermarket billet reluctor wheel. If you decide to use this part then you must be sure you have removed an equal amount of material from the lower timing sprocket to match the increased thickness of the billet reluctor wheel compared to the OEM stamped steel wheel. Early versions of the engine used a thick reluctor wheel from Ford and had a modified lower crank sprocket to work with them. If you do not use the stamped steel reluctor wheel and proper crank sprocket, then the damper will stand taller on the snout of the crank and create several problems for you.

    The first is the whoops you have already noted. The second is the serpentine belt alignment on the first drive sheave and the belt alignment on the second sheave will be off by the same dimension the reluctor wheel is thicker than the OEM wheel.

    Recommendation: Use a standard 03/04 lower billet steel timing sprocket and the stamped steel OEM Cobra reluctor wheel. Alternatively begin re-engineering the proper stack height for all the aftermarket stuff so it works properly together. Buying the OEM parts is the easy way home and don't forget to put a small ball bearing in the bottom of the stud hole. FWIW the stamped steel reluctor wheel works very well in the rpm range you will be operating in.


    Ed
    Last edited by eschaider; 07-25-2020 at 09:59 AM. Reason: Spelling and Grammar

  4. #3
    Senior Member Array JamesHell's Avatar
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    Just back the stud out what's needed to clear the nut. That small amount won't effect the strength.
    I am betting the hole got into the oil galley on the crank so put some thread sealer on the stud.

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