The good news is, I did receive a full refund from flagship one!Sorry to hear your bad luck, they really shouldn't be in business. If you can call your credit card company and say it never showed up, and cancel it. I had to call them multiple times a day and be a pain in the *** in order to get an RMA issued, and then they sent it after 3 months of hounding them. Once they got the bad unit back they never credited me and I had to dispute it with paypal.
I agree good grounds and adequate voltage should always be the goal, but in my case (and I believe the OP is in the same boat) we are not even getting the engine running long enough to activate the alternator. with the voltage drop from the starter 11-12 volts while cranking should not be an issue.There are, what Greg Banish at Calibrated Success calls, Universal Truths, if I remember correctly. Two of them are excellent grounds and adequate voltage. Something you should know is battery adequacy is neither measured nor determined by when you bought the battery. Battery adequacy and for that matter electrical system adequacy is measured by power available at the battery and in the car.
A good, charged battery should show between 11.9 to 12.5 volts at the battery, the higher the voltage the better. A good electrical system in a running car should show between 13 and 14.2 volts. If your numbers fall outside those guidelines you need to find out why and fix it.
I bailed on it and sold the 3V. After 3 months and way too much money trying get the 3V to run. I bought a 2011 crown Vic and used the 2V out of it. Had it installed and running in 2 days.What’s up fellas. I have been reading all of you post. Has anybody figured out the problem?