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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First hello to all my new freinds in the blue oval world... I am new to ford and am taking on my first build. I am knee deep into building a rear engine dragster using a 2V 5.4L mod motor. Parts that I have are the long block (all forged rortating parts, and ported heads). I also have a wipple 3.4L SC. Now comes the difficult part!! This is drag race only...on alcohol..What is the best aftermarket ECU, is there such a thing as 12 rib pulleys, how good are new ford replacment coils (that I have). Then do need a intercooler? I have purchased 3 shop type manuals but none are complete, is there printed info out there to cover this type of challenge?
 

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I would suggest using a big stuff 3 but your going to need to run something like ls1 coils to do this correctly but it has the best all around software in my opinion and most who use it will agree.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I agree with bigstuff, I've researched fast also but I'm asking alot from this ECU unit. Do you have any input on 12 rib pulley set ups
 

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I agree with bigstuff, I've researched fast also but I'm asking alot from this ECU unit. Do you have any input on 12 rib pulley set ups
I would run the Lightning lower intake without the stock A/W intercooler in it (if your not already)! The alcohol should go along way towards keeping temps entering the combustion chamber in check as well as any detonation! If temps or detonation seem to be an issue, you an always add the A/W intercooler in the intake later. At least you could forgo the expense up front until you see if it's even needed!
As far as 12 rib, there is nothing on the market as of now, and the 10 rib is no longer made either! If it were me, and this ws a "drag race only" as you have stated, I would run a cog pulley set-up to turn the blower and be done with it!

Big Stuff 3 with the LS1 coils would be my choie as well!

Ken:tip:
 

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For an all out drag race motor, I'm curious why you chose to stick with a 2V setup? They are not exactly high-RPM screamers, and it takes a lot of work to get the 2V heads to flow decently. I chose that route in my street/HPDE car solely because of investment cost. It was the cheapest route to a stroker motor. Having built up a couple modular motors now, here would be my suggestions for your goals:

Stock Block, bored 0.040" over (the max you can go)
Forged flat top pistons, should yield you a 10.5:1 CR
Forged H-Beam Rods
Stock forged crank, race prepped & cryotreated
That shortblock should be able to handle 8000 RPM and ~1000 hp with ease
For the heads, either custom ported PI heads with big valves, or the new Trickflow heads. A custom grind set of cams for your blower setup.
Stock Lightning lower intake w/ the intercooler & your blower.
A set of 1.75" long tube headers
The F.A.S.T. software should be able to handle your tuning needs. & this combo should be good to about 800ish hp & 700ish torque

If you were to switch to using 4V heads, the power potential would be much greater and you could see well over 1000 hp easily.
 

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For an all out drag race motor, I'm curious why you chose to stick with a 2V setup? They are not exactly high-RPM screamers, and it takes a lot of work to get the 2V heads to flow decently. I chose that route in my street/HPDE car solely because of investment cost. It was the cheapest route to a stroker motor. Having built up a couple modular motors now, here would be my suggestions for your goals:

Stock Block, bored 0.040" over (the max you can go)
Forged flat top pistons, should yield you a 10.5:1 CR
Forged H-Beam Rods
Stock forged crank, race prepped & cryotreated
That shortblock should be able to handle 8000 RPM and ~1000 hp with ease
For the heads, either custom ported PI heads with big valves, or the new Trickflow heads. A custom grind set of cams for your blower setup.
Stock Lightning lower intake w/ the intercooler & your blower.
A set of 1.75" long tube headers
The F.A.S.T. software should be able to handle your tuning needs. & this combo should be good to about 800ish hp & 700ish torque

If you were to switch to using 4V heads, the power potential would be much greater and you could see well over 1000 hp easily.
I agree.
A 2V head can barely feed a 4.6, let alone a 5.4.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
5.4L build up

All of the info coming in is great!! For now I am going with what I have. A bracket racing needs to be consistant, another 200 hp would be great but for now 800 will do. I went with the big stuff3 mostly because the vendor new his product, FAST reps in my area need more training. I went to a Chicago area show and found a 12 rib supplier. These are built one at a time and not massed produced so $$. May have to wait untill the next up grade. If I could move to the 4V heads where would a good place be to locate a pair, would they fit on on my 5.4?
 

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I have a set of 03 cobra heads that are bare. Let me know if you are interested.

Bill
 

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As far as an ECU I would look into the Anderson Ford PMS.......it is a piggy back style system that can run stand alone and run BIG injectors! ........I am curious what that set up with 2V ported heads and that big blower will run with alcohol.......should be good for mid to low 9's on a prepped car.....how much power will that blower support...??? The heads will probably be the limiting factor...

"ED"
 

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B heads are ok, but in the long run you are better of with "C" or 03-04 heads
and the Aussie Boss intake.
I have several of those.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for all the input. I have committed to the big stuff3, 120lb inj. the blower will probably not be much more effective over 18lbs with 2V heads. The E85 thought is now on the table This set up is going in a 1600lb rear engine with a powerglide/ 4:11/ 18X32 tire. I am still in need of a front plate with the idlers for this eng???
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
03 cobra heads

I'm intrested..... I have no idea how much the're worth, how much to get them race ready plus new cams?? and the end results.
 
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