CHE K Member Brace with Torque Limiters Beware of Torque Settings
scroll down a bit for the problem. post 14 on
scroll down a bit for the problem. post 14 on
Eat your WheatiesIm embarrassed to say i cant get the inboard bolts out of the k-member. i dont have an impact gun. im worknig with hand tools here. any insight or trocks to getting them out?
SHIT! I am glad I jsut came in for a break. I am at that point. Guess i will use my good sense and then check them periodically. At least you all saved this guy.Bummer man, I feel for you! Let this be a word of caution for the rest of you. 85 ft/lbs is too much torque IMHO.
NO PROBLEM. Glad you like them :beerchug:.Josh, I just put mine on (FINALLY!) that I bought from you on the first round. I have read here about guys getting longer bolts if they had the BMR K-Member BUT I did not want it to hang down any lower.
I have the BMR K-Member and this is what I did to make it a better install in my view:
I cut 1 3/8 off of the top of the tube. The crossbar is up where it should be and it has about 1 1/2 turns for added compression to shorten the turnbuckle after it is fitted. So DO NOT cut any more than 1 3/8" as it would shorten it up too much for adjustment. A better number might be: "cut off 1 1/4" from the top of the tube". IF one did cut too much off they would have to cut the aluminum part of the turnbucikle shorter to compensate for the fit. I got lucky with my 1 3/8 cut!
I am a lucky soul on that torque number post!!! I was in for a break and that was my next step of the install!!! i popped up the thread as I was posting in it. AND I always torque as noted...so , who knows if I would have sensed too much and stopped. I doubt it.
If you can pass along my tip about cutting to better fit the BMR K-Member, I think it would be a better installation. The supplied bolts worked fine as well.
I think it is a nice piece, I appreciated the Group Buy! Thank you.
Russ
I suggest someone that has a right angle drill, a tranfer punch, and a left handed drill bit. (You may get a LH drill bit at a machine shop or shop supply house)just a quick question as well. ive never broken a bolt before in a car or whatever. who would i call to do this if i cant get it out myself?
Ron, yeah the factory bolt is a tough one as I thought BUT what about the one you broke off? It was the CHE bolt right? I think it was softer... Were you able to compare the two with a file?Head Marking Grade/Class,
Grade/Call Material
Class 10.9 Alloy Steel, Quenched and Tempered
Nominal Size Range(inches)
All Sizes thru 1-1/2
Proof Load(psi)
120,000
Min. Yield Strength(psi)
130,000
Min. Tensile Strength(psi)
150,000
Info from this site:
Bolt Depot - Bolt Grade Markings and Strength Chart
The factory bolts are one of these:
9.8 M1.6-M16 medium carbon steel, quenched and tempered 650 720 900 30N58 C27 C36 9.8 9.8 M1.6-M16 low carbon boron steel, quenched and tempered 650 720 900 30N58 C27 C36 9.8
Metric Bolt Properties, Grades, and Strength
I got to get off and head out to haunted houses...(family gig).well the CHE bolt was the 10.9. the factory was a 9.8 i think the CHE is stronger based on that no?
well upon further testing. i dont have a file, but i do have a pair of *****. i scratched the CHE bolt and it not only scratched it but definately started to cut the surface a bit. i did it to the factory bolt and it barely scratched it.
i would absolutely loosen it to the 33 ft/lbs. i did on my one remaining bolt. dont put added stress on something that doesnt need to be there. if you leave it and the torque limiter does its job, the stress could be transfered to the bolt and snap it while your driving. retoque it to the proper ft/lbsSo yeah this would have been wonderful information to know BEFORE my install last night.
I mean the instructions being a little misleading fine...no big deal. Its obvious that you cant use the bolt above the starter on the V-8 manual because the limiter wont reach it and there's not a bolt on the other side at the same position.
But torque specs being off is big big F'in deal.
This guy broke a bolt off...yeah that sucks...luckily he didnt strip the block out because that's more of a PITA to fix....
Luckily for me, the block did not strip out, and the bolt did not break. I did however tighten that bastard to 85 ft. lbs. JUST LIKE THE INSTRUCTIONS SAID!
And of course when testing it I put it through the ringer, so hopefully torqing that bastard down over 2 1/2 times what it should be didnt cause it to fail when I was testing it out.
I do have a Ford manual...i couldnt find a diagram of the actual bellhousing bolt but it says this in the tranny removal section:
Remove the 8 transmission-to-engine bolts.So the question is (almost obvious) should I loosen that sucker up to 33ft lbs now? Or has the aluminum on the block been stressed enough where it might not hold tight at 33lbs anymore?
- To install, tighten 45 Nm (33 lb-ft).
thanks.
Chris.