It would be to your advantage to deep-six the OEM electronics. The best
versions of those electronics run out of processing steam between 6500 and 7000 rpm. Even worse, the best OEM ignition, COPS included, that you can get to fire the plugs only has 15, maybe 18 millijoules of energy. A dumb (not the smart version, the dumb version) IGN1 coil produces 115 to 118 millijoules a
t the plug tip. If you are attempting to produce a better driving experience with the car, the first thing to do is go to an aftermarket ECU. Decide the features you want, decide the budget you have to work with, and the choice(s) will become immediately apparent. If you have trouble comparing the various systems, try DIYAutotune's MS3Pro
<= clickable. It will work with an OEM Ford wiring harness and dash which will save you several hundred dollars, and
- it will use OEM sensors (saves you the cost of buying repackaged GM sensors at inflated prices),
- it has multiple engine failsafes to protect the engine,
- provides multiple traction control strategies,
- nitrous support,
- two-step and flat shift support,
- high-resolution fuel and spark tables,
- multiple accelerator pump strategies,
- closed loop idle control using your OEM IAC,
- Eight sequential fuel injector channels with individual trim tables,
- internal 4-bar MAP sensor reads up to 44PSI of boost,
- real-time barometric correction,
- onboard high-impedance injector drivers,
- works with or without the OEM MAF (I encourage you to use a high quality MAF),
- Knock sensor input with adjustable sensitivity, crank angle windowing, and more,
- Supports many aftermarket dashes/displays such as Racepak, Race Technologies, AiM Sports, AEM, Dakota Digital, Autosports Labs, Perfect Tuning, and the OEM New Edge Ford dash.
This list goes on and on, but I think you get the picture. BTW the price is $1,500 — which is the same as a race-style Holley 4500 from Holley!
You can find many alternatives that will cost more but not do more, and some will do less — a lot less.