I've swapped a 94 4.6 DOHC into my 66 Mustang + wiring harness and working on getting it running. It will turn over and I have a fuel pump installed and working but I don't have any fire to the plugs. I'm attempting to read OBD data using a Bosch 1300 OBD1 and OBDII reader but it will not connect (shows no cable attached). I have gone through the PCM cabling a couple times to check connections, power, grounds etc. Does anyone know what has to happen before the PCM will become "active" and connect so I can see data? I'm assuming that the transmission wiring must be inplace and in Park. After that I don't know what PCM inputs must be active to allow it to send signal to the coil packs. thanks
94 Lincoln Mark VIII swap no OBD data
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Are you using the EDIS module from the 94?
The neutral safety switch only affects the starting circuit, not the ignition.
The neutral safety switch only affects the starting circuit, not the ignition.
Yes I am using the EDIS module. One thing I didn't do was check the crank sensor. I will do that today and report back. Also I have two PCM's neither original to the car (like an idiot I left the original on the floor and sent the car off to recycling). I'm not sure how to verify good programmin in the PCM's. Both are eBay buys and one of them the seller confirmed it should be plug and play. Thinking ahead I'll check connections to the EDIS today also.
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Not sure if you have wiring diagrams for the 94 but IIRC the coil packs should have power with the key in on and start positions.
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It would be to your advantage to deep-six the OEM electronics. The best versions of those electronics run out of processing steam between 6500 and 7000 rpm. Even worse, the best OEM ignition, COPS included, that you can get to fire the plugs only has 15, maybe 18 millijoules of energy. A dumb (not the smart version, the dumb version) IGN1 coil produces 115 to 118 millijoules at the plug tip. If you are attempting to produce a better driving experience with the car, the first thing to do is go to an aftermarket ECU. Decide the features you want, decide the budget you have to work with, and the choice(s) will become immediately apparent. If you have trouble comparing the various systems, try DIYAutotune's MS3Pro <= clickable. It will work with an OEM Ford wiring harness and dash which will save you several hundred dollars, and
You can find many alternatives that will cost more but not do more, and some will do less — a lot less.
- it will use OEM sensors (saves you the cost of buying repackaged GM sensors at inflated prices),
- it has multiple engine failsafes to protect the engine,
- provides multiple traction control strategies,
- nitrous support,
- two-step and flat shift support,
- high-resolution fuel and spark tables,
- multiple accelerator pump strategies,
- closed loop idle control using your OEM IAC,
- Eight sequential fuel injector channels with individual trim tables,
- internal 4-bar MAP sensor reads up to 44PSI of boost,
- real-time barometric correction,
- onboard high-impedance injector drivers,
- works with or without the OEM MAF (I encourage you to use a high quality MAF),
- Knock sensor input with adjustable sensitivity, crank angle windowing, and more,
- Supports many aftermarket dashes/displays such as Racepak, Race Technologies, AiM Sports, AEM, Dakota Digital, Autosports Labs, Perfect Tuning, and the OEM New Edge Ford dash.
You can find many alternatives that will cost more but not do more, and some will do less — a lot less.
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I agree with this ^^^
I played the mix and match game with 90s Ford electronics for years. I understand wanting to use the OEM stuff, been there done that. Not sure what your budget is, but i finally gave up on the stock stuff and installed a Holley terminator x max. I am super happy with it, it was almost completely plug and play.
Much happier with the aftermarket ECU than i was with stock Ford stuff. I would look into Ed's recommendation, sounds like a great deal.
I played the mix and match game with 90s Ford electronics for years. I understand wanting to use the OEM stuff, been there done that. Not sure what your budget is, but i finally gave up on the stock stuff and installed a Holley terminator x max. I am super happy with it, it was almost completely plug and play.
Much happier with the aftermarket ECU than i was with stock Ford stuff. I would look into Ed's recommendation, sounds like a great deal.
I checked the EDIS today the best I could with just a Digital Volt meter. I'm not 100% confident I see the PIP signal correctly (don't have an oscilliscope but might buy one off facebook marketplace). The PIP does get around 12V but my understanding is it would rise and fall with the position of the crank sensor. I don't think I'm seeing that. The crank sensor does cycle but as I bump the key I expect both the crank sensor and pip sensor to hold both at a high voltage and a low voltage occasionally. I don't think I see that
Yes I have an Electrical and Vacuum manual. I get 12V on both the power and signal wire but I never see one of them pull down suggesting a signal to spark.
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I believe you will find a spark occurs as the electrical field collapses. Because the coils are 12V positive at all times, the time that the ECU connects ground establishes the dwell time for the coil. Then as the ECU breaks ground and the magnetic field collapses, the electrical energy induced in the secondary wiring is what generates the actual spark at the plug.
Some years ago I did a 5.0 Explorer EFI swap into a 68 F100. At first it wouldn't start. The computer was partially blanking out during cranking causing, among other things, the scan tool to go blank.
The ignition switch loses power to everything on the "I" terminal including the coil during cranking. Ford worked around this by feeding power back to the coil off of the "S" terminal on the fender mounted starter solenoid.
The ignition switch loses power to everything on the "I" terminal including the coil during cranking. Ford worked around this by feeding power back to the coil off of the "S" terminal on the fender mounted starter solenoid.
Update to all my friends who replied. I am an idiot! The Bosch OBD1 scanner I purchased kept giving me the message that the cables were not connected. I actually think it said plug it into the cigarette lighter. I ignorned that thinking that the data cable was connected and that was all I needed. I randomly opened the zipper case again and "out fell the cigarette plug cable. WOW so much for following directions. With the cig cable energized I get DATA!!!! Now I have verified fuel pressure (40 psi ish), spark with a spark tester and injection signal using a 12 V LED (noid light not working and I don't know why). The engine coughs like it wants to start. At this time I assuem it's not getting fuel. The injector signal is spot on so I'm not sure what's going on. Pouring a little gas into the intake and it runs for a second or two. Today I will attempt to see if the injectors are physically firing by holding a screwdriver on them and listening/feeling for the vibration. I've cleaned plenty of injectors on UTV's and ATV's so I'm familiar with how they work. I have no problem buying a new set if I determine that is the need. Again thanks for all the replies.
Update. It's RUNNING. The last straw was replacing the injectors (duh) The Lincoln I'm sure was sitting for a long time. The gas was old and I believe had plugged the injectors. I'll make a new post in a couple weeks showing the first drive.
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Glad to hear you got it figured out
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