94 MK VIII Teksid into 67 Fairlane

2333 Views 58 Replies 8 Participants Last post by eschaider, 1 mo ago

stephen.osborne1

Discussion Starter · 7 mo ago

I recently acquired my 67 Fairlane and shortly thereafter a 94 MK VIII with high miles but in running condition. I've read about some similar swaps on the forum but none specific to the 67 Fairlane. I'm in the research and planning phase now.
The donor runs ok but has 214,xxx miles. Planning to rebuild at least the top end and timing set. Considering bottom end honing, bearings, etc. Planning to use as much as possible from the Lincoln.

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eschaider

· #2 · 7 mo ago

You should consider the supercharged version of the engine. The 281 cubic inch n/a version of the engine is a 300 to 350 hp engine with tuning and mods with weak torque but good rpm capabilities. In a car like a 67 Fairlane t would produce a disappointing performance in n/a form.

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eschaider

· #22 · 7 mo ago

Those cams are used and also use 10mm fastener hardware.

If you are intent on using the 03/04 Cobra cams, I have a brand new set, never run, that have been drilled and tapped for 1/2 x 13, 8740 ARP 12-point bolts that I'll sell for the same $300 price. ARP specs the torque on a 10mm 8740 fastener as 62 ft/lbs. The ARP spec on the 1/2 inch 8740 bolt is 125 ft/lbs. Ford specs the torque on their 10mm TTY single-use fasteners at 30 ft/lbs plus 90˚ of additional rptation. The ARP fasteners are reusable the FRPP fasteners are not. The cams will need both the ARP bolts and four ARP washers that are 0.275" thick. Both the 12 point bolts and washers are standard off-the-shelf ARP items available through Summit.

ARP offers the identical thickness and diameter washer for 7/16" and 1/2" bolts. The 7/16" is $9.99 each and the 1/2" is $11.99 each. If you have drilling facilities, you can save a little on the washers by using the 7/16" washer. The 7/16" washer part # is ARP 200-8717 and the 1/2" washer part # is ARP 200-8749. The Summit pic for the 1/2" washer is wrong. The part # is not. The 12 point bolt part number is ARP 627-1750. I would recommend the 7/16" washer drilled out for the 1/2" hardware.

Before you drill the washer you will notice one side has a chamfer as delivered from ARP. The chamfer is there to avoid the radius on the underside of the 12 point bolt head. If you just drill the washer without duplicating the clearance chamfer you will eventually snap the head off the bolt. The head normally leaves the bolt at a relatively high engine speed bending lots of valves, breaking guides and sometimes dropping valves that punch holes in heads and cylinder walls — and I haven't even gotten to what it does to the pistons. Be sure to re-chanfer the washers.

Let me know what you would like to do.

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eschaider

· #24 · 7 mo ago

You are not.

The 96-98 cams have a longer duration intake cam and the same duration exhaust cam.

I misread the post. Apologies for the false alarm.

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eschaider

· #26 · 7 mo ago

In the 03/04 SVT Cobra Forum, check in the TToC under the Engine heading, and you will find a posting named Cam and Valve Timing Spreadsheet by yours truly. When you open it up, you will find almost all the Ford Modmotor cams, their nomenclature, their specs, and their part numbers. There are also a number of aftermarket cams listed. The Ford part numbers change a whisker across the years, but you should be able to identify the cams easily from the data there. NA/SVT was good enough to share some Cam Doctor specs he had personally collected for several of the cams listed. Where he did, I have noted it.

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eschaider

· #38 · 6 mo ago

Use the forging — you won't be sorry, the casting much more likely.

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eschaider

· #41 · 6 mo ago

The difference in the Mod and Coyote cranks is the #5 thrust main. This is a shenanigan you will be better off not playing around with. Manley will sell you a new 4340 forging with full radius journals on both rods and mains for a grand. They also sell complete rotating assemblies with crank, rods, pistons, and rings fully balanced and ready to go. This is by far the short way home.

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eschaider

· #43 · 6 mo ago

You want a c/r between 8:1 and 9:1 for a boosted engine and 10:1 for a n/a engine. You can fudge the numbers to your heart's content, but when you are all done, the reliability will be within those c/r's. Because you are initially an n/a build, I would consider going with Manley for everything. Later if you put a blower on the engine I would use Gibtec pistons. If you do a piston swap later for a boosted build, it means pulling the engine down to get the rotating assembly rebalanced.

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eschaider

· #59 · 1 mo ago

Here is a visual between a 351 (red outline), an FE (green outline), and a 4V ModMotor (black outline). When the overlays were done, the original creator did not include a 385 series engine or the 427 SOHC. The 427 SOHC is within less than an inch of the Modmotor except for length. It has an FE engine length, as you might suspect.

The 351, not surprisingly, is the most compact engine package of the group.

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