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buy a cobra engine or make one from a gt

  • Keep the gt engine and make it a 4 valve

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • buy a cobra engine

    Votes: 7 63.6%
  • keep the gt a 2valve and build it up. If so please comment on ideas

    Votes: 4 36.4%
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey i am wanting to make my 96 mustang GT into a 4 valve Cobra! I was wondering what parts were needed and what needed to be done. I am wanting it to be as close to a cobra as possible! What all is neccesary to make this happen? (Or would it just be cheaper to buy a Cobra engine? Most Cobra engines I have looked at are around $2,200)
 

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I just done this swap to my 98. I bought a long block out of a cobra and built it. To be completely honest I wish I had stayed with the 2 valve. There is so much stuff to buy its crazy. For example: thermostat housing and hoses, throttle and cruise control cables etc.(cruise control has to be the whole module not just cable). If its like mine the crossover pipe will probably need replacing. If you use a 2valve block and just buy heads you need valve covers, timing cover, headers etc. Before I did the 4 valve supercharged swap I took some ported pi heads, cams, headers, throttle body and plenum etc. and made over 300 rwhp. It would outrun cars like the 4 valve mach 1 all day. I let my friends talk me into the 4 valve swap when I bought my supercharger and honestly it is just to agravating finding parts here and there that you need. Just when you think your finished there is something else you need. My opinion the swap is time consuming and exspensive. Im sure im forgeting something
 

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I just done this swap to my 98. I bought a long block out of a cobra and built it. To be completely honest I wish I had stayed with the 2 valve. There is so much stuff to buy its crazy. For example: thermostat housing and hoses, throttle and cruise control cables etc.(cruise control has to be the whole module not just cable). If its like mine the crossover pipe will probably need replacing. If you use a 2valve block and just buy heads you need valve covers, timing cover, headers etc. Before I did the 4 valve supercharged swap I took some ported pi heads, cams, headers, throttle body and plenum etc. and made over 300 rwhp. It would outrun cars like the 4 valve mach 1 all day. I let my friends talk me into the 4 valve swap when I bought my supercharger and honestly it is just to agravating finding parts here and there that you need. Just when you think your finished there is something else you need. My opinion the swap is time consuming and exspensive. Im sure im forgeting something
You do not need the cruise module...At least I didn't in my 99 swap, just the cable.
the 'etc' in your just the heads part, will kill him. How much are secondary timing chains, secondary gears, secondary tensioners?

Easiest way is to get a complete motor...like an Aviator motor or Mach 1 or Cobra motor.

Here read this.

It will help with 99% of EVERYTHING.

http://www.modularrevolution.com/4V Swap.htm
 

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I would say sale your GT and buy a cobra , a cobra is more than just a engine swap. By the time you get all the stuff to make your GT a Cobra you could have bought one that is a real cobra.
just my 2cents..
 

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Some of us its easier and cheaper to swap a Cobra motor into it rather than just buy a different car.
I can understand that if he was only talking engine swap , but that does not put his car as close to a cobra like he stated he his ad. By the time you buy a cobra motor , do the swap , all the extra parts , tuning.. that has to put you near the 5,000+ range. And if you then start to look at the brake set up , etc ... going to add up fast ,, you can find a 96-99 cobra around 6500 to 9500 with mods.. seems to be cheaper to get the real thing.. Im not saying Im right or wrong but it would be nice at the end of the day to know you have a limited number cobra and not a Gt with a swap motor.. but again not trying to say one better than the other..:tip:
 

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I threw a PI motor in my 96GT. Best mod ever. Even better than the NPI with a V1. [had a Vortech for 100K miles]
I looked into a 4 valve swap but, like was mentioned, the little nic nacs were going to drive me crazy.
I found a complete PI motor with 10,000 miles for $1000 shipped to my door. I put some stiff springs in it so I could rev it and still build power and haven't regretted it one-bit.

When I want a 32V I'll find a wounded SN95 Cobra for dirt cheap and fix it.

:usflag:Best wishes with your project.
 

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When I got my first stang it was a 97GT , I sourced out a 2000GT longblock and swaped that in the car so it would not have the high compression and could run a blower. I looked at doing the cobra motor swap and the cost was not worth it in the end. Yes the cobra motor is better but you can build one sick ass 2v and then beat up on some cobra's and you will feel better about that.
 

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You do not need the cruise module...At least I didn't in my 99 swap, just the cable.
the 'etc' in your just the heads part, will kill him. How much are secondary timing chains, secondary gears, secondary tensioners?

Easiest way is to get a complete motor...like an Aviator motor or Mach 1 or Cobra motor.

Here read this.

It will help with 99% of EVERYTHING.

http://www.modularrevolution.com/4V Swap.htm
Yea well if I had not said etc i would still be here typing all that crap in. I think he got the point I was trying to make. I used a 98 cruise module and I swapped the whole thing because I was told to do so. I was told on a 98 the whole thing had to be swapped. Next time voice your opinion on what you think not what others have already voiced. A 99 is a little different than my swap.
 

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Yea well if I had not said etc i would still be here typing all that crap in. I think he got the point I was trying to make. I used a 98 cruise module and I swapped the whole thing because I was told to do so. I was told on a 98 the whole thing had to be swapped. Next time voice your opinion on what you think not what others have already voiced. A 99 is a little different than my swap.
So....you do what you are told. Congrats...I actually look stuff over and try to save a few buck versus playing follow the rich leader....

So if that were true according to other ppl if you do a 4V swap you HAVE to change engine harness', you HAVE to change PCMs, you HAVE to change hoods...ETC ETC ETC...its just a bunch of BS....

And that is why I said 'MY 99' swap...

I didn't say I knew all...just saying I knew that the module DIDN'T needed to be changed in MY 99...and I don't see much difference in the 98-99 module...

But tell you what. Ill head out and look at the module in this 98 Cobra in my garage and then compare it to my 99. And Ill let you know if it needs to be changed.

No need to be an ass.

Man this Coors Light is tasty. ;)
 

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So....you do what you are told. Congrats...I actually look stuff over and try to save a few buck versus playing follow the rich leader....

So if that were true according to other ppl if you do a 4V swap you HAVE to change engine harness', you HAVE to change PCMs, you HAVE to change hoods...ETC ETC ETC...its just a bunch of BS....

And that is why I said 'MY 99' swap...

I didn't say I knew all...just saying I knew that the module DIDN'T needed to be changed in MY 99...and I don't see much difference in the 98-99 module...

But tell you what. Ill head out and look at the module in this 98 Cobra in my garage and then compare it to my 99. And Ill let you know if it needs to be changed.

No need to be an ass.

Man this Coors Light is tasty. ;)
My apologies and let me know if the module doesnt need to be changed because i took the old one out but havnt put the new one in yet. I looked at a couple of forums about it on here and people where saying it needed to be changed. I tried to do some research before I removed the fender to change it. I was trying to get all the parts before I started the swap. I dont know but i didnt change any of the wiring or pcm but i did have to lenghthen several wires. So far so good. I hope to tune the car in a couple of days. Sorry for the attitude, I have just had a lot of negative feedback about my swap from people who havnt even done it.
 

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Engine swaps are fun and interesting.
I have been doing them since the late 70's.
Half the fun is the research, deciding on parts,
separating good info from bad, discovering new ideas, etc.
After the install, the other fun half is driving and enjoying it.
2V to 4V, 4.6 to 5.4, 302-351, pushrod to modular.
It is the little things that make swaps difficult.
You need a good Ford parts person to help, among other things.
Every buck you spend preventing things,
saves you 100 in the long run.
 

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Lots of years swapping, designing and enjoying.
The more complete you get something,
the better off you are.
 

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i say go 4v, i'm just finishing up a 96 mark engine into a 96 gt. minus my long tubes, clutch and resurfacing the flywheel i probably have spent about 1500$. you can find all the little stuff cheap in classified adds on forums.

my next project... 5.4dohc
 
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