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Steeda K Member questions...

3K views 10 replies 6 participants last post by  99blkcobravert 
#1 ·
I am considering this upgrade to lose a few pounds on the Cobra (and it is rather cheap as well!). Check this link out:

http://www.steeda.com/store/-catalog/QA1kmember.htm

The description says "recommended for use with tubular front control arms. Stock arms can be used with modification" What does this mean? I want to use the stock arms since I am cheap, but what kind of modification do you guys think they are referring to? I dont want to have to hack anything up. Any opinions would be appreciated! I figure this would be a good mod to do since I will be putting in headers at the same time!

Oh,,,and how hard is it to remove and install the k member?
 
#2 ·
K member

Save your money and get the entire kit with A arms and coil overs for you stock or afternarket struts. Ground Pounder has a pretty good kit and very reasonable through Muscle Motors. We put 1 in my son's 96 GT and 1 in my 99 Cobra. If you run headers you'll need to trim the passenger side plate that mounts to the frame.
You will love this mod! It opens up the bottom of the engine compartment to see and do just about anything.
 
#3 ·
Subscribing.

I like the idea of Chromoly, but the full Kenne Brown kit looks like $1500.

UPR's got a Chromoly kit for $699 that looks like a pretty good deal.

Anyhow, haven't seen much info on these yet so this could be a helpfull thread.

:)
 
#5 ·
K Member install

The GP kit I got was $550 shipped complete.
To install I used 2 6 ton jack stands to support the engine and dropped the stock unit by myself. The install is fairly straight-forward.
Yes you have to trim the K-member for shorties; I have JBA's and they did slightly rest on the K-member, especially under load.
 
#6 ·
I would only use it for straight line drag racing. The k-member looks exactly like the Griggs unit and I know of several breaking in open track use. If you are going to drive on the road Maximum Motorsports is the only k-member I would use. It will not save you as much weight, but might save your life and car.
 
#7 ·
toofast4u said:
I would only use it for straight line drag racing. The k-member looks exactly like the Griggs unit and I know of several breaking in open track use. If you are going to drive on the road Maximum Motorsports is the only k-member I would use. It will not save you as much weight, but might save your life and car.
I have the anthony jones one ill post pics later
 
#9 ·
toofast4u said:
If you are going to drive on the road Maximum Motorsports is the only k-member I would use. It will not save you as much weight, but might save your life and car.
I agree with that statement 100%. All the rest are good for nothing but full time drag strip usage IMO.
 
#10 ·
So far the MM gets good opinoins.
The Kenne Brown sits in silence.
The UPR Chromoly sits in silence.
Griggs breaks on road track/street
D&D has good opinions.
Steeda looks skimpy & is Mild steel.
Ground Pounder is inexpensive, unknown material.

At $699 for the Chromoly K, A-arms, & coilovers I'm very tempted to try the UPR!
 
#11 ·
Ground Pounder K Member

The Ground Pounder unit is made of mild steel and I have had it in my Cobra for a year. It looks very similar to the D&D.
I'd be careful about using a chrome moly unit. That stuff is prone to breaking.
 
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