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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was wanting to do something about my traction issues or lack of traction. I would like a good setup for the strip but I also encounter alot of street brawls mostly and my car feels like it's on ice until you're moving at or above 40mph. I don't wanna become one of these Supra or high hp Vette guys who only roll race or carry around a dyno sheet, so if I happen to be next to something fast at a stoplight or maybe even a slow roll, I want to put the power down.

I was considering addressing the front because I believe more front end lift will place more weight over the rear under hard acceleration and will address the rear at a later date, as my car doesnt hop, it just simply doesn't feel like it transfers weight very well.

I was looking at adjustables or possible some Lakewood 90-10's or 70-30's to save a little dough. What do you guys recomend, I already have Hoosier 315's on 10.5 Cobra rims and don't really want to run slicks or skinny's on the street, so what do you street warriors do for bite, am I going in the right direction.

I've already ruled out a rear mounted battery but am also considering tubular K member and A-arms, unless the streetworthiness takes a back seat because of the mod. I'm not looking to do wheelies from stoplight's, just a decent takeoff, but if I could wheelie, I'd smile from ear to ear.
 

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I was wanting to do something about my traction issues or lack of traction. I would like a good setup for the strip but I also encounter alot of street brawls mostly and my car feels like it's on ice until you're moving at or above 40mph. I don't wanna become one of these Supra or high hp Vette guys who only roll race or carry around a dyno sheet, so if I happen to be next to something fast at a stoplight or maybe even a slow roll, I want to put the power down.

I was considering addressing the front because I believe more front end lift will place more weight over the rear under hard acceleration and will address the rear at a later date, as my car doesnt hop, it just simply doesn't feel like it transfers weight very well.

I was looking at adjustables or possible some Lakewood 90-10's or 70-30's to save a little dough. What do you guys recomend, I already have Hoosier 315's on 10.5 Cobra rims and don't really want to run slicks or skinny's on the street, so what do you street warriors do for bite, am I going in the right direction.

I've already ruled out a rear mounted battery but am also considering tubular K member and A-arms, unless the streetworthiness takes a back seat because of the mod. I'm not looking to do wheelies from stoplight's, just a decent takeoff, but if I could wheelie, I'd smile from ear to ear.
Do you still have the front swaybar on the car? If so try removing that and beating on it a bit.

Are you still running stock springs? If so you could try clipping 1/3 a coil from the rear springs to pre-load the weight to the rear.

I put Tokico drag shocks up front and so far they are great. And they are adjustable so you can set them to 4 when just driving around, and 1 or 2 when at the track or when you know you are going to be out playing.

K members are nice, and should loosen up the front A arms for faster reaction. I had an older UPR setup on my '98 GT and I really wish I would have swapped it over to my Cobra before selling the car. The old style UPR coilover kit would squeak when compressing though. The sales pitch on their site says they have a new style that's designed to be quiet. I've been told that the MM coilovers are quiet so that's an option too.
 

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If you are looking for every once at the track I believe 90/10's are your best bet. If you drive both street and strip, adjustables are the only way to go.
 

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If you are looking for every once at the track I believe 90/10's are your best bet. If you drive both street and strip, adjustables are the only way to go.
I disagree :tip:

IMO, 90/10's are too loose. The car will act like a flounder going down the track......too much wasted movement.

To the OP.....you want the front end just loose enough to transfer weight but tight enough to not just shoot straight up. That will actually hurt short times since that energy could be moving the car forward instead of wasting time raising the front end.

While I know the vehicles are polar opposites, watch NHRA Pro Stock cars leave the line. They raise up just a bit to put weight on the rear tires/bars but almost all the movement is to propel the car forward.

Cars that do huge wheel stands could be a lot faster, maybe they just like putting on a show.

--Joe
 

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I disagree :tip:

IMO, 90/10's are too loose. The car will act like a flounder going down the track......too much wasted movement.

To the OP.....you want the front end just loose enough to transfer weight but tight enough to not just shoot straight up. That will actually hurt short times since that energy could be moving the car forward instead of wasting time raising the front end.

While I know the vehicles are polar opposites, watch NHRA Pro Stock cars leave the line. They raise up just a bit to put weight on the rear tires/bars but almost all the movement is to propel the car forward.

Cars that do huge wheel stands could be a lot faster, maybe they just like putting on a show.

--Joe
What you say is correct for a car that is getting traction. If traction is not an issue, wasting energy shifting the car will hurt '60.

If you have wheel spin, and especially with a hard hitting clutch: you need to get the weight to not only transfer, but transfer as rapidly as possible to try and get the initial bite.

That's my problem. I can get the tires to bite at SGMP, but Gainsville just let everything spin right from the clutch hit so I have to manipulate the gas to get the weight shifted.

I've now lowered the rear end, moved the rear axle as far forward as possible and loosened up the front A arm bolts (and locked them with red locktite) to both set up the weight with more of a rear bias, and to try and get everything to shift quicker right at the clutch hit.

Unfortunately I won't be able to make it back down there for a while to see how it worked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So would adjustable struts help with traction on the street with drag radials if set up correctly, and am I right about addressing the front before the rear as far as "bang for the buck"?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
would just lowering springs in the rear help out? I'm not sure about cutting down the stock springs.
 

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would just lowering springs in the rear help out? I'm not sure about cutting down the stock springs.
No. Stiff rate lowering springs will only make the tires spin MORE because it stiffens the rear up and reduces squat.

Since stock springs are cheap & easy to find, and you are looking for bang for the buck, why not just try my suggestion.

Clip 1/3 a coil from the rear, and remove the front swaybar. (you never did answer my question about that). And to Soaps point, you need a good tire to get good bite. The tires also need to be warm.
 

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For a street/strip brawler, I would definately consider adjustables. I run Strange adjustable struts on the front and QA1 adjustable shocks on the rear and this gives me the ability to help "tune" weight transfer at the track, as well as to stiffen them up pretty good for aggressive cruising.

Our cars tend to be so front heavy that's it often difficult to get the weight transfer necessary to harness the high power levels we tend to have on tap. Getting some weight off the front end certainly helps. Sway bar off, lightweight battery, front skinny setup, and tubular K member are the 4 most popular ways to get weight off the front end of the 03/04' Cobra.
 

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I disagree :tip:

IMO, 90/10's are too loose. The car will act like a flounder going down the track......too much wasted movement.

To the OP.....you want the front end just loose enough to transfer weight but tight enough to not just shoot straight up. That will actually hurt short times since that energy could be moving the car forward instead of wasting time raising the front end.

While I know the vehicles are polar opposites, watch NHRA Pro Stock cars leave the line. They raise up just a bit to put weight on the rear tires/bars but almost all the movement is to propel the car forward.

Cars that do huge wheel stands could be a lot faster, maybe they just like putting on a show.

--Joe
90/10's or 70/30's for that matter will hold the front end up longer and help from unloading the rear suspension. From what I understand, adjustables give you the same rate up and down.
 

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Our cars tend to be so front heavy that's it often difficult to get the weight transfer necessary to harness the high power levels we tend to have on tap. Getting some weight off the front end certainly helps. Sway bar off, lightweight battery, front skinny setup, and tubular K member are the 4 most popular ways to get weight off the front end of the 03/04' Cobra.
I wouldn't think skinnies (unsprung weight) would do much for weight transfer unless you are launching hard at the track.
 

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90/10's or 70/30's for that matter will hold the front end up longer and help from unloading the rear suspension. From what I understand, adjustables give you the same rate up and down.
You are correct.......but if you learned to row gears a little quicker you wouldn't have that problem :dunno2:

--Joe
 

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I wouldn't think skinnies (unsprung weight) would do much for weight transfer unless you are launching hard at the track.
I stand corrected. Just rerear the original post and saw the reference to "strret brawls". Be a little tougher to run skinnies around on the street for this!

Obviously at the track, a good skinny setup can be very beneficial to weight transfer and will also help decrease rolling resistance of the front tires. The setup I currently run saves 53.2 lbs off the front of the Cobra.
 

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You are correct.......but if you learned to row gears a little quicker you wouldn't have that problem :dunno2:

--Joe
:moon:

Jeffs,
I apologize for my rude friend. Anything you can do to reduce weight upfront will help with weight transfer. I run a radial, 185/55/15 I believe, on my front Prostars. This way I can drive with them on to the track. They are a couple lbs heavier but I don't have a truck and trailer. You do have to run a spacer w/ skinnies though - spacer size will depend on brakes (1" spacer on stock Cobra brakes w' a 1.75 rim offset).

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I recently reinstalled the front swaybar as it didn't seem to aid in front end lift, I also run a Hoosier 315 drag radial on 10.5x17 Cobra replicas.
 

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I run Lakewood 70/30s and have had good luck with them, i sixty in the mid to high 1.5 range on ET Streets. I got them on RattFinks suggestion, they are ok on the road and work great on the strip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Those are some great times those Lakewoods must work pretty well, do they tend to help on the street as well?
 

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The car is on Welds 100% of the time so with the skinnies up front and no front sway bar its kinda hard to judge handling lol. To me they handle just fine, carving corners is not very high up on my list of priorities.
 

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i have qa1 adjustable struts and they helped on the street alot. the bilsteins are very slow and more for road racing and dont spring up very fast.. i would go with a different brand then the qa1's tho, they are very loud on the street..
 
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