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I'm going insane waiting for halfshafts. Just blowing off steam my Cobra has been down since Dec. 15th. Please GOD let AR get these sooooooooooooon.:banghead
 

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The Ubiquitous Jimmy V.
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Joe @ Mustang Magic has a set of Heavy Duty halfshafts in stock..

631-254-3430


jim v.
 

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I saw the shafts Jim is talking about... all I can say is they look solid :D

The axle bars made from 300M with special double temper and heat treat.

Call Mustang Magic...they can help ASAP
 

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300 M Steel?

Didn't they used to use that on Navy Planes for Landing Gear on Carriers. They have developed even stronger stuff now!

Mike 69440
 

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We have the heavy duty shafts only from the Drive Shaft Shop also but they are just the shafts. The CV joints and cages can fail also. Also the stub end is a major problem also. The reason I went this route is of the extreme duty shafts, cv's, inner joints, cages and ends. This setup is complete. When you get just the shafts there is alot of labor involved. The complete set is just a bolt in that most anybody can do. I listened to what Joe Lynch said to me and went from there. He knows these IRS systems and all that can fail.

Rick
 
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Rick..I have never had one of these rears apart....with your complete setup...Its just a bolt in? Do we have to take the cover off the rear and most of the independant rear apart all apart to get these in? Not sure if these rears have C clips and all...if so then it must be a pain to get the cover off one of these rears. If its not a C clip rear and you just take 4 bolts out and the axles come out..then that would be cool. But I thought Ford went with C clips again...not sure.

Thanks for the info Rick.

Harry
 

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Harry,

I just replaced a rear diff on an 03. It is very easy to get the halfshafts out. They do no not have C-clips inwhich you have to remove the cover to"pop" them out.
The inner cv joint has a locking clip on the end on the splines,that can be popped out with a pry bar.
You will need to remove the brake caliper and disconect the e-brake cable and pull it out of the way. Disconect the tie rod end,remove ONLY the lower spindle bolt(the upper bolt has a cam on it for alignment purposes,if you remove it without marking the position the rear alignment wil be off)
After you remove the lower spindle bolt, you will be able to pull the spindle out and upward. This is the time you would want to use the prybar on the inner joint to pop it out(be aware of the abs sensor ring)You will need 2 people for this(one to pop out the joint,other to manuever the spindle. You will have to pull back on the spindle a good amount, but it will come out.
When the inner joint comes out of the diff housing, then loosen the nut on the outer joint. you then should have enough room to push the halfshaft out of the spindle and manuever it from under the car. .

sorry so long, hope that gives you an idea. Any questions just contact me

Marlon
 

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AmazonRacing said:
We have the heavy duty shafts only from the Drive Shaft Shop also but they are just the shafts. The CV joints and cages can fail also. Also the stub end is a major problem also. The reason I went this route is of the extreme duty shafts, cv's, inner joints, cages and ends. This setup is complete. When you get just the shafts there is alot of labor involved. The complete set is just a bolt in that most anybody can do. I listened to what Joe Lynch said to me and went from there. He knows these IRS systems and all that can fail.

Rick
Rick,
These are not just shafts. The potential customer must turn in his entire assembly as a core. If memory serves correctly, you have two packages, your economy for $550-ish and a complete one (closer to $850 to $1000). The package is complete, bolts in and can be had for under $700. It includes new CV's and IMO different then what you buy from the DriveShaft shop. The picture, which I obtained from DSS website, as you did, is for illustration purposes. Best of all, as Jimmy said, they're available now.

As for the outter stub's I agree, that's the next step. Also Joe Lynch does know the deal, I have read his report, it should be required reading for all IRS owners.
 

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We are also looking into the exchange for a more reasonable price but it's with stock cv's. The 300m drive shaft shop shafts is top notch. They should not break before the next weak link. What I wanted to do is give guys a choice. Some guys don't want to spend close to $900 for the extreme duty kit. But it's a bargin if your running sticky tires and don't want to worry about it. We will see how all this new stuff holds up this year with these cars making the killer power and running sticky tires. I can still remember Joe's car at cecil. the car didn't even move.

Marlon nice tech bud. It's not that bad of a job. Just gotta mark things like you said.

Rick
 

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A couple of notes:
Unless the 03 is significantly different from a 99 (which I would doubt) You shouldn't have to disconnect the brake caliper, and you don't need to disconnect the E-brake (just remove the mount clip on the forward lower control arm - a 10mm if memory is correct). This will give you enough slack in the E-brake cable to allow the hub to move out far enough for the wheel end of the half-shaft to be pushed out of the hub carrier.
On the differential side, you can take the ABS sensors off of the diff easily and this helps to prevent damage to the sensor rings. Otherwise, I'd agree with everything you said. The one thing people need to be aware of is to make sure they get the axle nut securely on there. Its ~250 ft lbs so get out them BIG breaker bars....and anti-seize on the stub axle splines:D
sonicblue03 said:
Harry,

I just replaced a rear diff on an 03. It is very easy to get the halfshafts out. They do no not have C-clips inwhich you have to remove the cover to"pop" them out.
The inner cv joint has a locking clip on the end on the splines,that can be popped out with a pry bar.
You will need to remove the brake caliper and disconect the e-brake cable and pull it out of the way. Disconect the tie rod end,remove ONLY the lower spindle bolt(the upper bolt has a cam on it for alignment purposes,if you remove it without marking the position the rear alignment wil be off)
After you remove the lower spindle bolt, you will be able to pull the spindle out and upward. This is the time you would want to use the prybar on the inner joint to pop it out(be aware of the abs sensor ring)You will need 2 people for this(one to pop out the joint,other to manuever the spindle. You will have to pull back on the spindle a good amount, but it will come out.
When the inner joint comes out of the diff housing, then loosen the nut on the outer joint. you then should have enough room to push the halfshaft out of the spindle and manuever it from under the car. .

sorry so long, hope that gives you an idea. Any questions just contact me

Marlon
 

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BlownCobra said:
I saw the shafts Jim is talking about... all I can say is they look solid :D

The axle bars made from 300M with special double temper and heat treat.

Call Mustang Magic...they can help ASAP
Wow those are nice looking, do they make any for other models?

-ZAch
 

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sohowcome said:
Wow those are nice looking, do they make any for other models?

-ZAch
I am not sure, You can call Mustang Magic and ask...Joe
631-254-3430
 

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Extrem duty shafts

I would like a set of the extrem duty shafts. I also would like to know if the whole set is 300% stronger, or just the half shafts, are 300% stronger. It would help if all of this was made clear.
Thanks, POY ZIN
 
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