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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys Im new to the thread but post all the time on the corral and dfwstangs.

I am in a bind lately as my cobra is eating valve springs.
I have Crane regrinds 217- .474
Modmax valve spring kit.
Ferra stainless undercut valves
Ported too big heads, Ross flat tops.

I am using the lash caps but seem to not have the proper set up to keep the springs in one piece.

Any help is appreaciated.

Also I am interested in billet cams, but called around and couldnt find any avail.


Thanks.
 

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TTT this is a damn good question. Any of you mod motor gurus have answers?
 

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360 Notch said:
Ok guys Im new to the thread but post all the time on the corral and dfwstangs.

I am in a bind lately as my cobra is eating valve springs.
I have Crane regrinds 217- .474
Modmax valve spring kit.
Ferra stainless undercut valves
Ported too big heads, Ross flat tops.

I am using the lash caps but seem to not have the proper set up to keep the springs in one piece.

Any help is appreaciated.

Also I am interested in billet cams, but called around and couldnt find any avail.

Thanks.
How are you setting up the lash caps?? Are you using the small "washer" type pieces underneath each of the lash adjusters??? The idea of a reground cam, is that they take material off the "base" circle, altering the geometry of the stock valvetrain...Since the "lobes" are reground and smaller, you need to make up for that lost material somehow and thats what the "washers" or caps are used for...They return the geometry back to stock....Its possible the springs are breaking due to the way you have the caps setup....
 

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Interesting thread as there don't seem to be good springs out on the market!!! The ModMax springs break, the new Ford Racing springs I have been told are weak, and the SHM springs are strong, but horrible to install. Does anyone have good springs out there, just don't see how springs would break b/c of the cams?
 

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DSharp said:
Interesting thread as there don't seem to be good springs out on the market!!! The ModMax springs break, the new Ford Racing springs I have been told are weak, and the SHM springs are strong, but horrible to install. Does anyone have good springs out there, just don't see how springs would break b/c of the cams?
Yes there are good springs out there. They do require machine of the heads and are not cheap. There are also new Rocker arms coming out in order to use much stronger springs as well. The stock rocker is part of the trouble. If you are not shy when it comes to money call Second street speed. They have what you need. Phone 215-257-3724 ask For Lon (they are the tuners of Jeff Alleback's pro-50 car).

Robert
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok.

The lash caps actually go on top of the valve head, the shims are what your thinkin, that go under the lash adjusters. I need both I think but have yet to be informed the correct way to adjust preload or lash.

I know the base circle is smaller much like a earily year compared to a late model year 351-w.

The adjuster needs raising and the valve head needs raising but in what porportion to each other and how much. Arm angles are important im told but dont get the correct angles and settings.

Wish i had a set of stock heads to measure everthing.
 

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Rob, I thought I heard of you guys doing like a solid piece in place of the lash adjuster. Any luck with this setup? Or any info would be appreciated.
 

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96blkcobra said:
Rob, I thought I heard of you guys doing like a solid piece in place of the lash adjuster. Any luck with this setup? Or any info would be appreciated.
Yes we do have luck. The final production version is finished. The new rocker will be made out of Aluminuim. and turned out great. On my motor. Running test on my car the results were great. My motor is running 8.9:1 compression last year made 365bhp on the engine dyno. This year changing nothing but the rockers it made 394bhp. The will be a article in MM&FF in july or august about them.

Rob
 

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How did you gain power through rockers? Is it like the OHC motors and you just increased the lift ratio or is it more complicated. Please explain.
 

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Call SHM. I have NEVER broken one of his valve springs. Had 280 passes on one motor and only lost 5 lbs of spring pressure. For the preload, I like .030-.050. Make sure if you are using lash caps that the edges are chamfered .020 or otherwise they will bind in the follower and break the valve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
J. Mihovetz said:
Call SHM. I have NEVER broken one of his valve springs. Had 280 passes on one motor and only lost 5 lbs of spring pressure. For the preload, I like .030-.050. Make sure if you are using lash caps that the edges are chamfered .020 or otherwise they will bind in the follower and break the valve.
I stuck with the modmax units.....cause im broke.
And I took the lash caps out due to there was 0 lash with them.
and about .035-.040 with out them. Go figure, regrinds and stock length valves....or supposedly stock length valves.

oh well pulling the motor is easy now and not that big of a deal any more.

J. Ubil
 

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You will be more broke when you break a valve spring and bend a valve. I say do it right or don't do it at all. But what do I know.

John Mihovetz
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Man you know more about this junk than i will ever probably know but I have a kid on the way, wife who lost her job and about 100 a month to spend on the car. I also have no car to drive to work at the moment and my back up is taken now by my woman. Medical bills for the hearttransplant I recieved 14 yrs ago and the comming kid are hurting me plus my car payment of 400 and the insurance for 3 mos at 650. J.M........you are correct about the shm stuff but the priority is getting the car to stay running then make it fast.
 
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