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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Planning on building a motor with 15psi of twin turboed boost. Lets just assume it will make 700rwhp. At that powerlevel do I need billet rods, or will forged h beams due the trick. Think long term use here
 

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If money is no oblject, always over build. MHO

That being said, I have H-beams in my engine :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How much power are you pushing and for how long
 

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Perfectly said by blk96cobra. If you've got the money why not go billet. But the manley h beams seem to be holding up to some very serious power level. I plan to see what they will do w/ 800.

Good luck.
 

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What's better and why? I thought Forged was the best. Can anyone explain?
 

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The forged rods are actually stronger and built for more longevity. Billet aluminum rods have only one advantage over the forged units and that is their weight. A billet rod is much lighter and almost as strong. They aren't built for street use, and won't stand up to long term. They are great for extreme RPM and short blasts down the track. I wouldn't recommend them in any street car...
 

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Hey Adam.... I have to say I did not know that. So what in your opinion are the forged Manley H beams good for?

That is about the only thing I was worried about in my setup for making serious power. I think we have upped the anty (however you spell that) and are going to shoot for 1000 at the tires. I might be in over my head but I guess we will find out.

Later,
Ashley

ps...Im working on finding out about the springs, Ill call you ASAP.
 

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You won't have to worry about the rods in your car at 1000 hp. Just watch the revs. I wouldn't go much over 8500 or so...
 

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Super Kaz said:
Badfoursixgt,
Sorry Bro,but they make Billet steel Rods.I have aset in SHM Race motor.They cost about 3 time what forged do but half of what TI rods do.$1850 BILLET STEEL,$1000 BILLET ALUMINIUM,$579 FORGED,$3600 TITANIUM! Bennets prices.My SHM were about $1800..........
You see... this is where it gets me. Billet is billet... unless the motorheads assume billet is aluminum, it comes in every possible flavor. Not saying rods do, but the term "billet" does.

Forge indeed will outlast billet in a heart beat. But, you can also have Forge billet. Perhaps the metal industry has another vocabulary for this. I guess weight savings in that area of rods makes a big difference?? Does it out weigh longevity, assuming putting down the same in hp, habit of driving etc..?
 

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I was under the impression that a billet product was cut, or formed from a solid bar of non-ferrous metal. Billet aluminum and titanium rods are possible, but not billet steel rods.
 

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ox03 said:
I was under the impression that a billet product was cut, or formed from a solid bar of non-ferrous metal. Billet aluminum and titanium rods are possible, but not billet steel rods.
You stand correct... except for the fact that it can be either ferrous or non-ferrous. From aluminum to brass to k-monel. Billet comes in cold rolled, heat treated, hot rolled.. blah blah. So the big mystery is... what properties do these billet inherit? Personally.. i don't care as long as its strong enough to handle boost! :D
 

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I was speakin solely of the billet aluminum units, I am aware that there are billet steel rods, but they would be complete overkill for "DSharp" and "cammin 4.6" and IMO I would rather buy two sets of forged steel rods at $600 in four years than spend $1800 on a set of billet steel rods once. Lets face it, they probably won't last much longer than that anyway... A race motor isn't built for total longevity. Billet steel rods will stretch too, it's just going to take longer...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for all the participation! I have made my decision and it is to drop the Turbo buildup all together. Instaed I am building a 5.0 DOHC motor at 10.5:1 with FR500 heads/intake/cams that will hopefully kick out 400rwhp n/a then add a direct port nitrous system jetted for 150rwhp. So for sure I am going to use the forged H beams from Manley or JE; heard they are exactly the same rod.

Dropping the car off in 3 weeks to get started. Hopefully Ford will get that damn intake out before my build is ready for it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I will but keep your fingers crossed for me. I am going to feel like one big jackass if I spend that kind of money and only get 340rwhp n/a :vomit:

Logically it should get 400rwhp, but my history says there will always be obstacles to overcome first!
 

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forged vs. billet

a billet rod and crank, and a forged rod and crank can be made out of the same material.

usually, a billet rod and crank is machined out of a forged piece of bar stock which causes the billet rod and crank have a grain structure that flows in one direction. this is what makes billets stronger on a given material.

in a forged rod and crank, the material is forged into the rough shape of the rod and crank, which causes the grain structure to flow in different directions. this is what makes forgings a little weaker on a given material.

forged rods and cranks are less expensive to produce, because there is less machining time involved and there is less wasted material.

i have made over 700 rwhp with 4340 forged eagle rods and a 4340 forged eagle crank in my old supercharged engine. on my new turbo engine i am looking to make between 1700 and 1800 flywheel horsepower. i have E4340 billet oliver rods and a 4330M billet sonny bryant crank in it.

the bottom line is this, forged rods and cranks are fine unless your horsepower level or rpm level dictate the addional strenth that a billet rod and crank offers.

:)
 
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