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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Everyone,

I used to be a fairly frequent member of svtperformance.com......

I've been offline for the last 3-4 months with nothing but problems with the 03 Cobra. I've decided to join this forum, seems like where everyone is at.

My car has always had a slight tap to the motor that just got progressively worse over time. I just assumed it was the "tick" we all talk about. Well I finally took it in to ford to have the TSB done on the head replacement.

I was happy thinking all would be right in the world and ford wasn't that bad when I recieved a phone call that my car is finished............. the noise is still there and my warrantee is voided.

So the bottom line is I have a rod knock or wrist pin failure, svt wouldn't even investigate farther, I was under the assumption that they would have to prove my mods caused the failure? But pretty much the svt adjuster looked at the car and told ford not to touch it since it's modified............

I've called svt, ford customer service, the dispute office, even my local dealer wants nothing to do with the car. I bought this thing cash less then a year ago, it has 8k miles on it...... it's already had months of downtime do to problems.......

I'll list a few............

#1 since I bought the car new I thought is was cool how the car made a whissle sound when I shut it off. After driving the car for 2-3 months like this I found out the hose on the driverside valve cover was dissconected, I couldn't see it because it was stuffed up in the alarm speaker....... ok now I found out the motor is designed to run with crankcase pressure and not saposta whissle when I shut it off.

#2 car stalls while driving one day, won't start. Check the fuel pump fuse & relay are both ok........... 0psi at fuel rail so i a assume its a fuel pump and take it to ford. I find out the diafram inside the fuel pressure reg. blew out and flooded the crankcase with gas..... also gas is dripping out of the T-body????
Ford did and oil change and replaced the sensor............

#3 found out my boost vent was stuck open causeing my blower to overheat, the entire unit was replaced at no cost by JDM.

#4 Bad head assembly from factory.............. replaced

#5 Bottom end faulire


I've changed the oil 8 times, the chip has been tuned via JDM for a safe a\f

Ford sucks, this car is a pos on wheels.

Any clues on what I should do? Currently planning on buying a new dss crate short block and doing a swap.



Mike
2003 Mineral Grey Cobra

2.8 Upper Pulley
4lb Lower Pulley
Super Chip From JDM
Accufab T-Body & Inlet
JDM K&N Filter Kit
JDM Boost Bypass
Pro 5.0 Shifter
Kooks Long Tubes
JDM Shorty H-pipe (cats)
Magnaflow Catback

The normal bolt ons you know.......................
 

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Have the motor torn down and examined to see what actually caused the failure. If it was a factory defect take it to court.

If you cant get a new motor from Ford I'd get a built short block from either Modular Performance, or VT Engines.
 

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The Ubiquitous Jimmy V.
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That all suck's...My friend going through similar situation...
Very hard getting Ford to warranty modified cars..
 

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Snake Charmer
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Whats crazy though is the warrantied it for the tick, but it turned out not to be the problem. In court I would argue that if ford fixed the head on his modded car that they shouldnt have a problem fixing the rod/wrist pin or what ever else is failing.
 

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The Ubiquitous Jimmy V.
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Shadowgray03 said:
Whats crazy though is the warrantied it for the tick, but it turned out not to be the problem. In court I would argue that if ford fixed the head on his modded car that they shouldnt have a problem fixing the rod/wrist pin or what ever else is failing.
I believe they fixed head because the Tick is a problem they are addressing..The rest they will not warranty because it was modified..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Modular Performance, or VT Engines.....

Any info on these 2 companies?


Ford replaced the head because it is now a TSB.
Anyone of us with an 03 with an engine build date prior to nov. 1st 2002 I believe is the date can now have this done no matter what.

Going to court, getting a lawyer, and tearing down the motor to find the failure far overstep the cost of just replacing the shortblock.

I would love to tear down the motor, prove it was fords fault, sue, and get ford to replace the motor etc.....

but then over a year from now I'll be driving the same car with the same stock motor most likely having to remod.

Screw ford, screw there customer service and even svt........
I even offered my dealer to pay for the ford short block assem. if they covered labor..... no deal.

I'll just order a 5.0 stroker with billet rods & crank, forged pistons ...... the whole nine. It'll be cheaper in the long run.... and it'll be safer to go ahead with mod mods as I have planned.

Maybe I'll be the first 03 to be swapping over to a stroker :)

JDM intercooler & cams are on the way soon..... and a bigger blower may be in the near future if this eaton is the route of my problems.

I hear that they produce to much heat and drop off in boost on top, that new works blower or the KB is something nice to look at.
 

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You mentioned gas getting into the crankcase due to the diaphragm failure of the fuel pressure regulator. That could have been the undoing of either rod bearings OR main bearings if it ran for even a short time with gas-thinned oil. You may still have a connection that can be made, in my opinion. You indicated that the regulator was changed (warranty ?) and the oil was changed, so there is acknowledged proof that gas got into your oil. A documented tear-down needs to be done with a qualified mechanic who can determine the failure mode/root cause of the knock...
 

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All I can say for everyone that has a modded car. Fix all minor problems yourself. And if you have to take it to the dealer remove everything on it that could get you voided. I have a friend in the mid-west that removed his pulley, chip, cold air, 18'' wheels, and his bigger heat exchanger. Took the car in for the tick fix and got the head replaced with no problem. But he said that the same dealer voided (or refused to honor) another owners warranty for a broken half shaft due to really worn rear tires and rubber build up in the wheel wells.
Never give a dealer any excuse to void. It seems that they will take it.
 

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Ratt Fink said:
You mentioned gas getting into the crankcase due to the diaphragm failure of the fuel pressure regulator. That could have been the undoing of either rod bearings OR main bearings if it ran for even a short time with gas-thinned oil. You may still have a connection that can be made, in my opinion. You indicated that the regulator was changed (warranty ?) and the oil was changed, so there is acknowledged proof that gas got into your oil. A documented tear-down needs to be done with a qualified mechanic who can determine the failure mode/root cause of the knock...
An extremely good point. We all know the easiest way to degrease an engine part is to put it in a little gas (old fashioned way). If gas got in there, and the tick started around the same time, I'd do the tear down and get a lawyer. Adding boost will do a few things, but not wear out a bearing. A hole in the piston, ok, a broken rod, ok, blown head gasket, ok, but a worn out bearing? Who do they think they are kidding. I'd contact them one last time (someone of importance at SVT or FORD) and let them know that you have documents that proove they are at fault for the failure of the componet and you will sue for reimbursment of parts, labor, and your time and lawyers time regarding this issue. Go to the dealer, try and sweet talk them for some names and numbers of some higher ranking individuals. Possibly try to get the individuals that worked on the car to give it a professional opinion in writing stating that the most likely cause for a failed bearing is improper lubrication caused by the thinning of the oil by the gasoline entering the crank case.

Spend some more time on this than just letting them push you off. Then you can still do your mods, and sell the stock shit they put back in.
 

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I also agree with Ratt Fink that fuel in the crankcase could and would wipe out the bearings, or a bearing. That is your main case!

Gord
 

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Man this fuel pressure sensor is scary, what happens when it goes bad and can it be caught before it starts fying bearings and whatnot??
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The only way to make sure your fuel pressure sensor is good is to monitor the fuel pressure from the fuel rail and then what the computer sees .... thats what I've been told.


If the diafram in the sensor fails, fuel will be sent via a vaccum line right into the crank case. Great design Ford :)

When my car stalled and wouldn't start, I got 0psi at the fuel rail and gas was dripping out of the T-body. Since the fuse & relay were ok and the inertia switch wasn't tripped I assumed a fuel pump.

Turned out the tech told me the comp was reading 77psi and shut off the fuel pumps, and the remaining fuel in the line was sent into the crankcase??

How much fuel passed through the sensor before the diafram totally failed is anyones guess. The tech told me it was pretty bad but still ok... yeah....

Anyone know a layer that will work with me??
 

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Snake Charmer
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Ratt Fink said:
You mentioned gas getting into the crankcase due to the diaphragm failure of the fuel pressure regulator. That could have been the undoing of either rod bearings OR main bearings if it ran for even a short time with gas-thinned oil. You may still have a connection that can be made, in my opinion. You indicated that the regulator was changed (warranty ?) and the oil was changed, so there is acknowledged proof that gas got into your oil. A documented tear-down needs to be done with a qualified mechanic who can determine the failure mode/root cause of the knock...
Very good point, at least its more ammo to back after them with. Perhaps going around to a bunch of independant auto repaire shops and getting written statements from mechanics who will support the claim and submit it to ford or have it ready for court.
 

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some explain this fuel problem & how fuel can make it into the crankcase...

i changed my plugs a few days before my engine failed & there was some liquid in the TB ... might that have been gas?

how do i have someone check that at the shop?



also my car stalled at the track about 10 minutes before the failure happened... but i was able to start it up again.
 

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The FRP sensor is no worse in design than the older fuel pressure regulators. They also dump gas right into the motor when they fail.

I remeber when your FRP sensor went out. I'd bet a good amount of money that's what caused it.
 

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coleman said:
some explain this fuel problem & how fuel can make it into the crankcase...

i changed my plugs a few days before my engine failed & there was some liquid in the TB ... might that have been gas?

how do i have someone check that at the shop?

also my car stalled at the track about 10 minutes before the failure happened... but i was able to start it up again.
The FRP sensor has a vacuum line hooked up to it so it can reference manifold pressure. For example, if it want's 40 PSI and you have 8 PSI of boost, it will add 8 lbs of pressure to the line. Then when you get off it, it will see 8 lbs less pressure in the manifold, and back the FP down 8 PSI.

The problem is when the diaphram inside the sensor fails. In that case, the fuel leaks right through, and gets sucked into the intake by the vacuum line. Most of it will get burned, but enough won't to 1) wash down the cylinder walls and 2) run past the rings into the oil.

Of course it could fail electronically, and just run your engine lean.
 
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