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I am going to be installing Stainless Steel Brake Lines. While reading about this on the forum, someone metioned in a post to get brake line speed bleeders. Can someone explain to me what the advantage of these are? Also, how do you install them?

Thanks for the help.
 

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Eaton Warrior
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SPEED BLEEDERS HAVE A CHECK VALVE IN THEM SO THAT THE FLUID CAN TRAVEL OUT BUT WHEN YOU LET UP ON THE PEDAL NO AIR IS SUCKED BACK IN. THIS ENABLES YOU TO DO THE JOB YOUR SELF.
 

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Whoa on the all CAPS…

Speed bleeders work great, but I have had them leak with certain calipers, and make sure you get the stainless steel ones.
 

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SLEEP!
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Sizes?

(bump)

Has anyone ever actually purchased these? Summit Racing doesn't provide a lot of data on line - the closest I can see is:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=RUS-639590&view=4
...but it looks like Russell stopped checking fit on all cars circa 1997!

Can anyone tell me the bleeder fitting sizes with accuracy? Failing that I'll call Summit in the AM....

Thanx
Don
 

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About Speed Bleeders

They have an advantage for Road Racing, but may not be practical for everyday street use.
 

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Speed Bleeders are cool. I have them and bleeding brakes is an absolute breeze now. Try them out...just get SB1010S for front and rear.

The Speed Bleeder website may say SB1010 for the front, but it is wrong. You need the same (short) bleeder in the front as the rear, hence the "s" in the part number.
 

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SLEEP!
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BenD said:
They have an advantage for Road Racing, but may not be practical for everyday street use.
I don't get this - they act the same as regular bleeders when seated, they just have a check valve that makes one person bleeding much simpler. Why would this make them inherently better for road racers / not practical for street cars? My brake fluid gets changed yearly - bleeding them alone is a PITA. Not to mention that stainless -vs- pot metal is a decided upgrade. Is there a dark cloud to this silver lining?

Thanx mosconiac - order placed.

Don
 

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I had Speedbleeders on my 98 without any problems.

There are basically 2 ways to bleed brakes, either by vacuum (MytVac) or by pressure. Speedbleeders alow one person to bleed by pressure without expensive equipment. You hook a hose to the valve, crack it open, then sit in the seat and pump the pedal vs staying at the wheel and pulling a vacuum to evacuate the air.

Some claim that pressure bleeding is better than vacuum bleeding. Both work well and I am sure that they may be some circumstances where pressure bleeding works better. Maybe someone else will chime in and straighten that out.

But back on topic, it is important to get the correct valve for our calipers. As I remember, all 4 valves on my 98 were the same. mosconiac is usually correct, so I would go with his recommendation for part numbers. Ditto on the stainless version. When I pulled my 98 valves, the inside has noticable corrosion, probably from the absorbed water in the brake fluid. Here is my preferred method for flushing your brake fluid (should be done annually):
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I took an old jar, large enough to hold at least one can of brake fluid. It's best to start with an empty can. Fill it with water and dump it into the jar. Now mark the fluid level. Throw out the water and connect your bleeder hose to bleeder screw (I used to use speedbleeders, but now I use a MityVac. Both work well.).

Take a full can of brake fluid, wipe off the top good so there is no dirt that can get into the system and clean your thumb as well, and carefully invert it onto your master cylinder (be careful you don't spill it on the paint! I use my thumb over the opening until the bottle is inverted). Now duct tape it in place so it doesn't tip over. At this point, it looks like an inverted water bottle sitting on top of the water cooler.

Now go bleed your brakes. Watch the fluid level in the jar, cause when it's close to the line you marked, then the brake fluid can is nearly empty. If you're still bleeding, then put another can on.

Another tip. Brake fluid WILL absorb water, so don't bother storing an open can. If you need to add just a little bit of fluid, might as well do a little flushing and use up the entire can. It's cheaper than replacing calipers because of internal corrosion. Pull your stock bleeder valve all the way out and you'll see what I mean.
 

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summit doesnt sell the sbeed bleeder brand. on sb website stainless are 15 bux each, kinda pricey... summit sells the russel brand speed bleeders only available in steel and lists 2 sizes for the cobra 33mm for the rear and 35mm for the front.

any ideas which fit and if the steel ones will be fine?
 

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never used one before. any how to pages for it? so this goes on the valve on the brake and forces fluid in reverse to the reservoir?
 

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SLEEP!
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I have never been as happy with the MitiVac bleeds as I am with the $3.99 cup that hangs on the bleeder and using pedal pressure to force fluid, including doing the MC that way. My only botch is that the $3.99 cup is too small capacity-wise for a full system flush - it requires a few dumpings.

Note - for stainless order SB1010-SS ($15/pop) - these will also fit the Cobra R / Brembo upgrades

YMMV
Don
 

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mobius said:
never used one before. any how to pages for it? so this goes on the valve on the brake and forces fluid in reverse to the reservoir?
Its a hand vacuum pump, you just attach the line to the bleeder, open the bleeder and suck out the brake fluid at each wheel, then close the valve again and refill the brake master cylinder. Just keep an eye on the master that you dont suck it dry.. keep refilling it before it empties.
 

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oh well that is simple enough, thanks
 

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Yep, its that easy..
 
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