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Great write up. Thanks Nick!
 

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This is definitely a great article!!

MODS...can we sticky this in the Modular Tech Forum.
 

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Great write up, we need more post like this! I stuck it too.
 

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Yeah I did it a little different, but that is a great write-up.
 

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Who makes those adjustable gears?
 

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Great write-up ! One item that I think would be useful would be this special socket made by Comp Cams that can be used to turn the crankshaft (either direction without messing up the degree wheel setting).
It is for a small block Chevy, but has a 1.255" ID and 3/16" keyway that fits the modular motor crank snout. It has a knurled outer "nut" that will hold the degree wheel (the Comp degree wheel fits correctly), and has a hex set screw to lock it on the crankshaft. This is easier than trying to weld a washer to a degree wheel and then trying to "lock" it into place perfectly with an impact socket. Check it out...
 

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Great job!!!! How about one for the 4v heads. Not the whole thing, just the slight differences when you get the first cam set and then move to the second cam on that head.
 

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do you have a part number or link on where to buy that socket?
D'oh, I am sorry !! It is the #4793, made by Comp Cams... Jegs or Summit should have them. And, it is the correct size, as I did purchase one a few years ago when I degreed my cams.
 

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Great job!!!! How about one for the 4v heads. Not the whole thing, just the slight differences when you get the first cam set and then move to the second cam on that head.
You likely understand, but always do the exhaust cams first, since they are the driven cams. Then do the intake cams.

Another hint... once you have set up the cam degree wheel with your identified location for Top Dead Center on #1 cylinder, the degree wheel will also be indicating TDC for #6 cylinder, only 360 degrees off. So, after setting the cams on the passenger side (#1 side), which is what 99% of people tend to do, just turn the crank one revolution and you are in the ballpark for setting the driver's side cams, using the #6 cylinder exhaust and intake cam lobes.
 

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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-4798/

not the exact one that was referenced above (id is a little bigger) but this is what comp recommends to use on the 4.6 cranks from their degreeing instructions - http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Instructions/Files/COMP4-103.pdf
I don't have a crank or balancer to measure, but my crank snout was 1-1/4", adn used the 4793 socket not 1-3/8", so I don't think the 4798 is the correct socket, unless the 2V or 3V use larger crank snouts (which would be an interesting thing ?!! )
 

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i really doubt they use different crank snouts cause a 2v balancer fits on a cobra crank :) Good info, maybe comp is wrong or it's such a minor difference that either one works. Obviously I would go with the tighter one which is the one you linked
 

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Good info in here guys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Great job!!!! How about one for the 4v heads. Not the whole thing, just the slight differences when you get the first cam set and then move to the second cam on that head.
When I get a chance, big issue on the 4V heads it might be faster to do it by LSA first as any changes made to the primary gear affects the secondary gear. I haven't done a 4V yet to be honest to see the fastest way about it, do the secondary first or second.
 
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