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Has anyone gotten to the point of actually putting it together and needing main bearings?

I've got a boss block and a coyote crank...

Clevite 3139's* ( I forget the set part #) the rear thrust is too small with out spacing them.

I have a coyote block at the shop so I grabbed the thrust bearing out of that and what do you know.... the 1 piece is way too big for my main cap.

So besides spacing a 3pc thrust is there a bearing part number that i'm missing?
 

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BOSS blocks take different mains. You will need to use a main set for a BOSS block. I recommend you use King Bearings not Clevite.


Ed
 

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Idea... I know the block can be machined to use larger side bolts. Can the same be done for the mains? What about for head studs? I'm on Ambian so forgive me if this is a stupid question. :)
 

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In the case of mains the answer is no. The existing fasteners are 10mm. The next step up is not possible because of a major diameter minor diameter problem when you go up in fastener size by 1mm. The next step up is 12 mm and the main webs are only 17 maybe 18 mm wide. The decreased wall section thickness next to the stud would be a probable point of failure.

While the main caps can be machined for 10mm side bolts the thread engagement on 4 bolt main caps would be less than one diameter. One diameter is the recommended thread engagement for cast irons and steels. If the main caps did not use the outer studs and were remade in billet material the necessary thread engagement would be available and you would still have two main studs holding the caps on like the cast iron blocks. Again though, you are increasing fastener size by 1mm with all the major/minor diameter problems if you try to do it in OEM caps.

Length-wise it might be possible to use the 12 mm head studs that are used on some Coyote blocks. They are longer if I remember correctly but useable with a little massaging. The real problem once again is the 1mm increase in fastener size. The conflict between major and minor thread diameters rears its head yet again.

Additionally worthy of consideration is the fact that we can already crack the Aluminator blocks by raising the torque on ARP 2000 head studs to 110 ft/lbs. The stud will survive, the block will not. What we are up against is an ultimate strength failure in the block casting. Going to larger diameter fasteners or better steel in the fastener only exacerbates the block failure problem.

The fix is a new block design with additional strength for supercharged race applications. The Sean Hyland blocks possess considerably more strength in their design than even the Aluminator blocks but they also carry a $5500 price tag and another $1000 or so additional prep expense before they are ready to use and then of course there is the limited availability.

Ed

p.s. turns out the Hyland block tooling and manufacturing rights were bought by Koenigsegg for their One:1 Super Car. I suspect that means if you want to buy a block it comes at a much higher premium today plus, the cost to ship it overseas - assuming they will sell one.
 

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James, any update on this effort? I went with a used cobra crank, but still interested in the outcome?
 

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Can someone PM me some reputable shops to cut a crank?

Really want to get this project rolling again.

- - - Updated - - -

Crank snout*
 

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Just ask them to find out for sure (They always want to know how they can help), although I doubt Tim is mistaken. Don't discount the idea that there may be several iterations of the MMR slop filling the trough.
Mmr don’t help worth shit, and all there mod motors are complete junk, unless you go 5.0, stay far far far away from there so called very good 4.75 stroker, with there boss 302 crabkshaft I had my engine builder go over mine and it would have blown right away, it was like a kid in training built the fucning thing
 
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