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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Lemme know what you guys think. Look at my dynograph, its lean. Now look at my plugs
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here is one plug, they all pretty much look like this. NOt tip errosion, or missing parts, gaps have all been the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I know they are on the tan side, but ny no means are they white or anything. I havent discussed throroughly the A/F filter being clogged on the dyno yet with my dynoshop.

#1 and #3 plugs
 

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Broke,

Have you checked them under a magnifying glass? Lots of times, you can't see the cracks or little chunks of metal any other way.

Also, in the second pic, it looks like the left plug has a redish tint. Is that just the pic, or does the plug really look redish?

BTW, the AF is ALLLLL screwed up. That's probably the worse I've seen yet. How was that recorded? Bung? Tailpipe?
 

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BTW, the AF at the high RPM's may be washing the plugs, so you wouldn't see the little specs of piston on the plugs. Try running it to 4500 in third and then shutting it off and immediately pulling the plugs. That should give you a better idea of what is happening down low.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I havent inspected it under a magnifying glass yet. It was recorded in the left tailpipe.

Car never has detonated, or pinged. To my knowledge, and im pretty familiar what detonation sounds like.

The 2nd pic, you are correct, it does have a small amount of reddish tint.
 

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broke7 said:
I havent inspected it under a magnifying glass yet. It was recorded in the left tailpipe.

Car never has detonated, or pinged. To my knowledge, and im pretty familiar what detonation sounds like.

The 2nd pic, you are correct, it does have a small amount of reddish tint.
THis is the third time I have tried to reply to this. AAAAAAHHHHHHH. Jesus I hate Websense. Friggin stupid caching bullshit. Anyhow, here goes (again):

1) Do the magnifying glass pronto. In my car, I had redish plugs a few K after the pulley swap. Checked the leanest one (cylinder closest to firewall on driver's side) under the glass and saw a VERY small crack beginning on the electrode. Wouldn't have seen it until it was too late otherwise.

2) You will probably only hear detonation if it is REALLY frigging bad. My car was detonating, and I could not hear it. Only knew due to the plugs. Changed the plugs with colder ones gapped closer, and haven't had a problem since (18K miles or so).

3) In my car, back to back pulls with the sniffer in the bung vs. the tailpipe resulted in a pretty consistent 1.0 difference (tailpipe being leaner). However, in your case, I would vote for the sniffer being screwed up. I would think you would have ashtrays for pistons if you were really running that lean for that long.

4) Reddish tint usually means too hot of a plug or too large of a gap.
 

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Keep in mund the A/F on the graph ONLY applies to WOT. under normal driving your car is going to try and maintain a stoich 14:1....unless your tuner played with closed loop tuning.
 

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you need to check your plugs after hard accelleration and then shutting off right away...the reading will be way different if you if you drive back to the pits..make a run and shut the car off then check the plugs...mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did a little bit of messing around lastnight in the garage. Yanked the chip out and cleaned everything and made sure it was getting a good connection.

I then installed my flipswitch and went for a drive, on the stock program, shift light and all, and the car flet pretty gutless. I stopped and flipped the switch to my modded Tune, and the car felt like itself again.

I am gonna redyno again here very soon and see what happens with the A/F.

I figure with the lean conditions I see why the car hasnt burnt itslef up, if in fact its running that lean or its dyno equipment problems.

I cant see why the car would have 10.6:1 A/F with the same tune on a stock Hpipe and Catback, and then have a outrageously lean condition with the same tune and just the addition of an offroadX and 3" Catback.

MAKES NO SINCE!!!???
 

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Broke7,
I have mentioned your problem several times,i am 99.9% certain that your air-fuel sniffer is not accurate,if you are going to the same dyno you need to tell them to install a new filter and clean out the air-fuel lines or you will get the same results.One way to know if your air-fuel meter is working properly is listen for a air whistle sound coming from the box where the hoses go into,if no sound the box is not flowing properly and will give false air-fuel readings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
At least I know what to look for now, Im not sure if they even know what to look for. This is the 1st and only dyno this guys has ever owned and operated and there isnt another one up here.

Thanks for the pointers
 
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