[Cal 87]

I did a search but couldn't find anything definitive.

I just did an engine swap in my 2002 GT from my old 4.6 2v (romeo) to a low mileage 4.6 2v (romeo) out of an 01. For some reason, the pump isn't sending fuel to the fuel rails. I unbolted the fuel rail and no fuel came out at all. I checked the red reset button in the trunk (just in case) and that was still pushed in. All connections are in place and all the injectors are plugged in. Would this be a PATS issue? It blinks once ever second or so when the car is off (I can't remember if that was normal or not). It doesn't blink when I have the key turned to the on position. There is only wire I think could be a concern. When I pulled the engine a wire on the drivers side got caught on the dipstick and pulled it out of it's connector. It is a single wire that comes out of the fuse box and goes into the wiring harness to the fuel rails, the COPS and the alternator (with a connector in the middle). I stuck the wire back into it's connector though I don't know if that is good enough. It was something I was going to replace once I got everything back together. I'm not that great at diagnosing problems so any help would me much appreciated.

 

[wmburns]

First did you check all fuses in the engine bay and driver's kick panel? Remember there are tons of "always on" circuits in today's cars. It's easy to blow fuses when working with the battery connected.

Also I'm going to assume that the cluster powers up and display the mileage and that all lights "prove out".

Check the grounding strap from the left hand motor mount to the frame rail.

The gold standard to diagnose a possible fuel pump on a 96-04 MY is to test the IFS trunk mounted switch with the key on for +12 volts.

If no voltage, the problem is a fuse, CCRM, ignition switch, or ground (or broken wire).

If voltage, the problem is in the fuel pump or FPDM.

For the 96-04 MY, PATS does NOT disable the fuel pump. So if the fuel pump doesn't run for 3 seconds at every key on, STOP and find out why.

A picture with the broken/repaired wire with colors could also help.

 

[Cal 87]

First did you check all fuses in the engine bay and driver's kick panel? Remember there are tons of "always on" circuits in today's cars. It's easy to blow fuses when working with the battery connected.

I didn't check the fuse panels. How would I be able to tell if the fuse was blown and which fuse to check? Sorry, I really should learn. I did have the negative battery terminal disconnected. I don't know if that would have helped.

Also I'm going to assume that the cluster powers up and display the mileage and that all lights "prove out".

Yep

Check the grounding strap from the left hand motor mount to the frame rail.

Yep, that's on there nice and tight and the strap looks good.

The gold standard to diagnose a possible fuel pump on a 96-04 MY is to test the IFS trunk mounted switch with the key on for +12 volts.

If no voltage, the problem is a fuse, CCRM, ignition switch, or ground (or broken wire).

If voltage, the problem is in the fuel pump or FPDM.

I'll have to get something to test that tonight.

For the 96-04 MY, PATS does NOT disable the fuel pump. So if the fuel pump doesn't run for 3 seconds at every key on, STOP and find out why.

A picture with the broken/repaired wire with colors could also help.

I don't have a picture atm, but it's white with a red stripe.

 

[wmburns]

So you can swap a motor but you can't look at a fuse to tell if it's blown? Seems silly to do a lot of diagnosic work if this is a simple blown F1.14 fuel pump fuse.

The single white wire with pink strip (WH/PK) is likely for the starter solenoid.

Fuse layout:
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...r-swap-wont-fire-please-help.html#post2669271

 

[Cal 87]

I checked the F1.14 fuse and it looks fine. Just to be sure I swapped it with the F1.16 (horn relay) and I still had the same problem. I'm going to borrow a multimeter tomorrow and test out the trunk mounted switch.

 

[Cal 87]

Well I was able to get ahold of a Multimeter. I checked all the fuses in the engine bay and the passenger footwell. They all checked out fine. I checked the IFS switch in the trunk and read 10.9 volts. Where is the FPDM located? My manual doesn't list it unfortunately.

 

[wmburns]

The FPDM is located in the trunk right near the IFS switch.

There is a round connector located near the center of the rear bumper (C463). It's easily seen from the outside of the car looking up center of the gas tank. Open this connector and inject +12 volts towards the fuel pump on the RD/BK (pin#7) and BN/PK (pin#6). The fuel pump should run.

If the fuel pump runs and there is still no pressure, reverse the wires and try again.

If there is now fuel pressure, this points to a problem in the FPDM, PCM, or wiring.

If there still is NOT any fuel pressure or the fuel pump does not run, then the fuel pump is bad.

 

[Cal 87]

I put power to the pump and didn't get anything. However, the odometer now reads all dashes (it didn't before, it used to read the mileage) and when the key is in the "on" position the fan runs and the theft light flashes quickly. It still cranks over fine (still wont start of course). I did a quick for the problem on the forum and I found a post where you said the CCRM controls power to the Fan, PCM, etc.

http://www.modularfords.com/f4/help-odometer-reads-all-dashes-168302/

After reading that thread my guess is power isn't getting sent to the PCM and the PATS module won't release the anti-theft. I'll guess have to check the CCRM tomorrow (and the fuses again while I'm at it, got home too late from work today). I don't think this was the initial problem as I was reading 10.9 volts at the IFS switch earlier.

 

[SC99GTVert]

All dashes tends to be dead PCM, likely due to a fuse. Once you get that going I don't think you'll have a PATS issue.