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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well like the title says, put the car back together and no fuel pressure. Here's where I'm at:

Went ahead and replaced fuel pump (140,000 miles on original) with SVT focus pump - with key on, jumped hot to pin 10 on FPDM harness and the fuel pump kicked on, so everything is good between the FPDM and the pump. Also checked harness to fpdm, no voltage when key is turned on. So I think the problem is upstream of the fpdm.

With key on, checked fuel pump wiring harness - had 5-6V on the two outer pins, nothing in the middle - What does this mean?

Have 12V across battery (sanity check)
Have 12V coming out of main engine compartent fuse box
Checked fuel pump fuse, it's fine
Checked rest of fuses, all fine

Checked for voltage coming out of the fuse box, had 12V solid

At this point, I'm wondering if I have a bad CCRM? The fan kicked on for no reason last night while I was doing tested and I know it's part of that system. To check the CCRM I guess I have to pull the wheel off and the fender well guard. Once I get to the CCRM, does anyone have some guidance on how to check it out?
 

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Tombstone02:

Do you have a Haynes manual or Chilton's manual? They have electrical schematics in them and are very handy and only $20 (AutoZone carries the Haynes manuals, btw). Your local library should have AllData on-line and free for library members.

If everything was working immediately before the cam swap and the problem began immediately after the cam swap then (said Capt. Obvious) the problem is related to the work done during the cam swap. A connector is not seated properly or a wire got pinched or a fuse has popped or may be not installed properly in the fuse block (trust me on this one). Unplug each connector and look at the pins and the socket contacts. You may see that one has slipped out of place. If you find something amiss, fix it and then reconnect the plug, listening for the confirming click that the plug is properly seated.

My shop manual is too old ('98) to help you but another option is to get a CD off ebay or from a fellow forum member.

HTH,

Chris
 

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I'm assuming that you have checked all the grounds around the radiator core support. There are also two large round connector with black wires with white stripes that haven't been overlooked.

Confirm there is +12 volts at the trunk mounted IFS switch DG/YE wire with the key on. If no voltage, STOP and find out why. The problem is in the CCRM, ignition switch, or fuse.

To test the CCRM, confirm there is +12 volts at the CCRM pin #11 (LB/OG). If no voltage, STOP. there is a wiring problem or fuse F1.14 is bad.

Confirm there is +12 volts at CCRM pin #12 (RD) with the key on. If no voltage, STOP fuse F2.2 is bad or the ignition switch is bad.

With the key on, confirm there is +12 volts at the CCRM pin #DG/YE. If no voltage, the CCRM is bad or the CCRM ground is bad.

I can help with the wiring diagrams. PM if interested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'll check the radiator core support area and look for anything that got knocked loose or pinched. I pulled the fan shroud out so something getting knocked is possible. the ignition switch is good (i presume) because the car turns over no problem, just no fuel in the rail. i have voltage at the injectors and cop's as well.

i pulled all the fuses and they look good. it was a nightmare getting the bolt off the side of the engine fuse box so I could move all the wiring out of the way so who knows. i figure with a good check on the ccrm, it should tell me where my problem is. the fpdm isn't getting voltage so it must be between the fuse box and ccrm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well i jumped the fuel pump and out pressure on the fuel rail. turned the key and the car started and ran until there was no more fuel left. so the pump and cam install are good. i checked the green and yellow wire coming from the ccrm and there was no voltage when the key was turned. there is voltage from the battery and everything so i'm guessing its the ccrm.

but here's the kicker. while messing around with the ccrm i think i accidentally grounded it and put current on it, sparks and all. well now, the car wont run if i jump the fpdm, and when i try to read the codes, my SCT saus unable to read codes. Went to tune and return to stock, and it said there was no vehicle attached. WTF? did i somehow manage to fry the cpu?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
good man. fuse 34 ccrm was roached. car will start like it did before if i hotwire the fuel pump. so from what i can tell, i have no signal coming out from the ccrm (no voltage when key turned one. so to check to verify it is getting power, which pin connector should i check? pins 8-13 are all voltage applied at all times or in start/run, so I guess if those have power, then that points to the ccrm. If not, then something upstream?
 

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Post #3 has all of the steps, pin numbers, and wire colors needed to trouble shoot the CCRM. Post the results of each test and we can go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
have voltage at pin 10.
do not have voltage at pin 11, fuse 14 is good.
do not have voltage at pin 12, fuse 2 is good.

so a wiring problem?? anyone have an idea where to look?
 

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Well, following wmburns' post, I'd do some tracing now. The wire colors will match the entire way. Use a multimeter for continuity testing.

Did you test pin 12 with key on? Use your meter to double check those fuses again. I would also test the power side of the fuse box slot that the fuse plugs into just to rule that out, then the output side with it plugged back in. As you know, fuse 2 in the CJB (kick panel fuses) leads to pin 12 at the CCRM. It is a red wire, and goes through one connector plug (near the PCM).

Pin 11 is fed by the fuel pump fuse in the BJB (battery box fuses), is a LB/OG wire and goes through one connector plug in the front passenger side of the engine bay.

Pin 10, which you said was good, is a straight shot from the PCM fuse in the BJB, and should be the same as pin 8. This has me thinking you are either backprobing or just testing the pins in the connector unplugged from the PCM. That's good, now you just need to trace out why 11 and 12 are dead.

caveat - my MY, and thus my shop manual, is '99, so no guarantee my wire colors are the same as yours. The concept applies though, and I doubt the pinouts are any different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
found it, the bolt on the fuse box to get the harness out of the way was a pita. when i spu the nut off it torqued the metal tab running throug the fuse box and pulled the first few connectors out of the bottom of the fuse box. lined it up and put a c clamp on it to push it back together and boom, back in business. thanks for the help.

oh, but now no power brakes. fail. well, actually i think i have a vacuum leak as the car sounds like it has supercharger right now, lol.
 
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