From 2V to 4V build thread

Some pics from this weekend:

Removed divider from Mach 1 intake. The elliptical TB is actually smaller than the opening in the manifold once I cut the divider out so no need for any type of transition spacer not to mention I think the adapter hose for the inlet pipe may put the pipe into the strut tower.

It's everything I can do to NOT smooth out the port surface. The casting is extremely thin and if I tried to flatten the surface I would go through the casting so I didn't spend a lot of time straightening the port surface. Also since the opening in the manifold is larger than the TB there isn't a performance advantage in doing so.

The elliptical TB doesn't have a port to operate an IAC so the port on the roof of the manifold for the IAC will be welded shut and the IAC port will be routed externally. There will be a lot more welding done to the manifold for vacuum blocks, ports, etc so there will be more to come.










Due to the wire tuck that was on the 2V I spent all week cutting and soldering wires but I am making progress at redoing the wiring to fit the 4V




I read that going from a 2V to a 4V the coils need the wires reversed in the connectors so I still need to do this but the pass side routing is fitting good.

More got done so a few more pics.

Coil and Inj wiring all done. Still need to re-pin the coils.



I have a major issue with the throttle cable hitting the PCV boss. I'm beginning to think this UPR K-member has the motor set back an inch or so.. I have very little room to the firewall.

Had to order longer throttle cable and cruise control cable off ebay.
Had to order a different TPS sensor and connector for the new TB since my existing one won't work.

I read that the master cylinder has to be removed in order to get the DS valve cover on/off but I still couldn't get that sucker on. So I notched clearance in the valve cover and now it fits with the MC completely disconnected except the brake lines. I will weld it and grind it flush.
I'm also going to cut off the PCV boss off to lower that section to help clear the throttle cable then I will add a PCV boss elsewhere.




ks

Check with the manufacturer about the 'turn on RPM' for the alternator. You want the 'turn on RPM' to coincide with your idle rpm. That might require a pulley change on the alternator to bring the alternator RPM up high enough to 'turn on' at idle. The other metric you want to be sensitive to is the max safe operating RPM. If the pulley required to get it to turn on at idle puts the alternator rpm above its safe operating ceiling, when you are changing gears, the alternator will kill itself. For example, if it requires a 3:1 step up from crank speed to turn on at idle and the max safe alternator rpm is 18,000 rpm, when you shift at 7,500 rpm (or 8,500 ?!) the alternator will see 22,500 rpm at the 7,500 rpm shift point and 25,500 rpm at the 8,500 rpm shift point.

When Mechman did my 'little' Gen 6 alternator they used Denso internals and square rather than round wire to get my safe operating RPM up to 21 or 22 thousand rpm — I forget which anymore. If you have a safe operating speed down in the 15,000 to 18,000 rpm window, this is a big problem. Potential alternator explosions notwithstanding it will put you into an alternator replacement mode every 18 to 24 months, maybe sooner. BTW the alternator manufacturer will tell you to slow down the alternator and 'it will be OK' in daily driver traffic, in the city. That usually works until your battery stops working.

BTW with a high-mounted alternator (in front of the intake?) when/if it explodes you not only have the aggravation of refinishing and repainting the hood but you also have the issue of alternator shrapnel flying around in the neighborhood of real people.