yea man, its only an extra 40 bucks I think. Might as well get it for insurance. I am going to hate the break in period though ugh.I took the stock one and on a lathe cut about .18" off the face. I thought I was good but after some miles and adjusting the firewall adjuster several times the clutch fork slack is all taken up. Therefore I have to pull the trans and cut more off the pivot ball face to get more fork clearance. I am also going to look at doing a little grinding on the fork where it is hitting the trans.
So for sure an adjustable pivot ball is recommended.
500-1000 city miles normal driving style, i think its supposed to be like 50,000 clutch engagement and disengagements that's why they say roughly 1000 miles.Well worth it, mine is still new but the pedal effort is lighter than stock. I have the steeda linkage, adjustable firewall clicker and adjustable cable. I got the adjustable ball and lowered it about .25 and it works fine, full engage to disengage is a heel toe effort and super light. Very impressed.
I will look at my receipts but I believe I got mine from late model, with the ball. Everything hooked up right the first try including the adjustable ball. Think I paid about 900 total for the RXT twin.
Question though, what are the break ins? How do you break it in other than normal gradual engagement and so on? Obviously no launching or hard pulls?
what flywheel are you using, adjustment to the pivot ball is usually needed because the twin disc setup is roughly 1/4 inch taller than a single disc setup.these things are super tricky to get the right adjustment. And I'm not sure whether it's supposed to be,(however I read it is) but the engagement is just below the brake peddle and I haven't touched anything to do with the adjustment. Can someone confirm this is correct?
BTW I do love this clutch