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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to install a Kenwood DPX503 headunit into my car within the next couple months:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113DPX503/Kenwood-DPX503.html?o=p&showAll=Y&tp=5684

However, since I have the Shaker 500 in my car, Crutchfield says that I need the PAC Ford replacement interface in order for the OE amps to still function. But, this part is an extra $65 that I don't really want to spend. I have already upgraded my front and rear speakers with Infinity's.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_127C2RFRD1/PAC-Ford-Radio-Replacement-Interface.html?tp=3486

So do I truly need this interface for my '05? Or will I just need a y-splitter/some kind of RCA connector in order for this headunit to correctly work in my vehicle?
 

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Is replacing the Shaker 500 unit with a double din touch screen a simple plug n play task with the proper adapters? Will it retain the same sound quality/loudness as the factory system? Is the Shaker 500 unit a powered unit or is it just send the signal to the amp(s); pre-amp unit...?

I would like to change my head unit to a touch screen possibly NAV, but I don't want to hack or have to take apart my interior to install multiple boxes, wiring, etc...
 

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the subs have there own amp that is not part of the head unit. With the harness I linked above it is simple plug and play. My only warning is most GPS headunits want a signal from the parking brake and a signal from pcm showing speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So did you actually solder that piece into your headunit? Or just crimp the wires? I don't have access to soldering equipment and want to install all this by myself. When I installed my Infinity's, I just crimped the wires and my speakers have been fine for 2 years, so I'm hoping that crimping these wires for the headunit will be sufficient enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Another question is:

Do I need to purchase a 5V regulator separately in order to ensure that my subs won't "pop" when I turn the headunit on?

Also, this is a review given by an obvious S197 owner regarding the linked product above:

"This product seems to do what it was intended to do, but it was not matched correctly to my vehicle by Crutchfield. This made the installation of my head unit much more difficult with tech support phone calls, internet research, and trips to auto parts store.

Apparently, some of the latest Ford Mustangs with the Shaker 500 (possibly Shaker 1000, too) systems have a much different connector/wiring system than before. I believe they are utilizing the MSCAN databus which allows more control over electronics, etc.

For the record, I have a 2008 Ford Mustang Bullitt and I needed to tap into an accessory 12V for power, my reverse light wire for backup camera, and
install a 5V regulator to eliminate the popping of my Shaker 500 door woofers."



What's up with this?
 

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Do I need to purchase a 5V regulator separately in order to ensure that my subs won't "pop" when I turn the headunit on?
Yes. I needed it with the Pioneer AVIC-D3 to keep the door subs from popping.

- I have an early build 08 GT with the Shaker 500 and the standard wiring harness for 2005-2007 Mustangs worked fine.

- I did not need to connect the parking brake switch (you can bypass it for the Pioneer) and nor did I have to connect the VSS. The GPS works fine and I have 100% functionality, 100% of the time.

- For the acc 12V power I used the light wire for the TC button right above the HU.

- I haven't tapped into the Rev lighting yet, nor have I installed the Rev camera, so I cannot help much there, sorry.
 

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Yes a 5v regulator is needed. I didn't solder any of mine used little metal tube crimp connectors and shrink tubing, made it look nice. The only reason you would need to tap into the reverse light is if you have a backup cam. And the only reason I can think of that you will need a 12v is to run accessory stereo items. The head unit itself should get all its power from the harness.
 

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I believe that is in the harness because the stock stereo does it as well. My AVIC-N2 dims and I have no extra 12v connections.
 

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Easy fix, doing 12v car-fi for 15 years, I would just junk the whole Ford system. Replace all the stuff with new, factory wiring is noisy. Put in a nice multi channel amp a few speakers and a small sub. Hard wire the headunit, do not use the factory wiring if you want your sound to sound clean. Run the yellow from the raido to the batt direct for memory, run the red into the fuse box and ground the the chassis. That is really the only way I have found the system stays nice and clean, noise free.
 
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