Mustang and Ford Performance Forums banner
1 - 20 of 32 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
643 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a ported Eaton with bolt ons, and I'm ready for more traction and reliability when I go to a drag race 90 miles away, meaning I'll be driving to and from the track and also running the car at the track, so I need the reliability of a solid axle rear.

I plan to continue running my 28" tall M&H drag radials on my 10.5" Cobra wheels, so I'm definitely going to step up to 4.10 rear gears, but other parts have me a bit baffled.

Control arms I know I won't be reusing the stock ones coming off an 02 GT, so I'm wondering if I need adjustable uppers and lowers or will a solid aftermarket non adjustable be OK, I know I can get the BBK of UPR non adjustables for under 200, or is this whwere I should step up to adjustable ones for another 100-200$ The granatelli's or UMI's look like nice ones, but expensive?

Rear diff
I can go with a simple Ford tracion lock from jeggs for around 260$, but again would a Detroit True-trac, or an Auburn pro series be worh an extra 200 bones? I kind of like the Idea of the True-trac because it doesn't have any clutches that wear out and need replacing, but I'm also a big fan of money, so the traction lock from ford racing might be the ticket???

Springs I can't seem to find alot of options with springs other than the stock ones that I could re-use from the rearend doner car, or I see Eibach sells a launch set for around 250$. I've also read and heard of people using four cylinder fox mustang springs, but I'm not sure if that was aimed at the front suspension moreso than the rear? Again if the free springs I'll be acquiring with the rear will serve me fine, I'll save a couple hundred dollars and re-use them babies.

Shocks The price seems to go up quickly with double adjustable shocks, so I'd like to spend under 200$ on a decent set of single adjustables instead of 400-600$ double adjustables I've seen advertised in magazines, unless it's really necessary?

I'd appreciate any experience with these parts, the car isn't a daily driver, but I do need it to be street friendly and tough enough to abuse a bit at a track. I also need to drive it home from the track wich is out of town since there isn't a local drag track of any sorts. On a side note, I plan on using non "C" clip 31 spline axles from moser for a bit more durability and whatever the difference is with the abs system, I'll be getting that too. Any helpful advice would be great.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,571 Posts
Controls arms: You really need an adjustable upper to set your pinion angle correctly. I prefer racecraft parts but they are more expensive. Upr is nice for the money. I also like the weight jacker lowers from steeda for ride height adjustment. Again pretty pricey but are nice pieces.

Rear diff: The stock ford diff with the cobra clutches is the best bang for the buck imo. Plus its easily rebuildable

Springs: I like the bullitt/mach 1 factory springs for drag. Some people use 4 banger fox springs in lighter cars

Shocks: Being a 6 speed car, a single adjustable rear shock with be enough, same on the front

Also you need to determine what type of bushings you want to run in the rear, solid bushings are tough but do have alittle more noise. I would also plate the torque boxes and weld them
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,689 Posts
UCAs and LCAs make sure you run the spherical bearings, dont waste your time on poly if your gonna drag it. I run Baseline UCAs and love them and also run MM weight jacker lowers, they help to dial in the instant center that the Baseline uppers setup for you.

Dont mess with a stock trac lok, i used one for several years with sucess but when it broke it could have been real bad had it broken open alittle more than it did. I use a Detroit Locker but most use Detroit True Trac with good luck.

As far as rear shocks i use Lakewwod 50/50s but im at the point where a good adjustable rear shock would be a benefit.

Stock rear springs will do fine, i use stock GT springs as do others.

Dont forget to get torque box reinforcements and have the torque boxes welded up, alittle prevention now will save alot of headaches later.
Also a good diff girdle and some form of axle brace will help keep things together.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
643 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks everyone, I'm so glad nobody asked me if I knew of the "search" feature. I do plan on using an aluminum rear bracing cover from TA or ford racing. If I reuse one or both of my air-lift drag bags, could I use those in place of the weight jacker lca's? I already have them on my irs is why I'm asking and maybe I could possibly save money using an aftermarket non adjustable lower in conjunction with with the bags? I'm also really considering the Detroit true-trac, and the torque box reinforcement plates will also be employed.

I'm also impressed by mustang-john being in the 10's with a non adjustable 50/50 Lakewood shock! I already have 90/10's on the front along with the stock springs.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
643 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I also screwed up on my OP, I don't plan on using C-clip eliminators, just the factory axle retention will do for me, unless eliminators is really worth while, can I weld the 9" ends on to the housing with my home MIG welder? Also how important is welding the axle tubes??
 

· un1230/Whipple3.4/ Teksid
Joined
·
2,453 Posts
UMI solid joints top and bottom,double adj on top and single on bottom,UPR arb and strange 10 ways. Up front Lakewood 90/10's with ups 14/175 coil overs,UPR k-member and A-arms,strange 35 spline pro-race axles with their pro-lite spool ,c-clip eliminators,5/8 studs,CHE brace girdle and t/a girdle cover. And yes its a no brainer on welding the tubes IMO and you see my sixty's in my sign,let me know if have any questions Car Hood Automotive design Vehicle Automotive lighting
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
643 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Can you run c clip axles with the auburn pro, or tru-trac, or do you have to have C clip eliminators with those differentials?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
333 Posts
Mofasta,

Do you get any leaking issues with the C-Clip elim's? And do you put many miles on it on the street?
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,464 Posts
When I had mine built here is what I did, I wanted to do it once, only once and make gear changes as needed with the combo as it evolves. I havent installed it yet due to time constraints, going in this winter.

SN95 rear
9" late model big ends
Strange Brakes
Baseline Suspension adjustable Lower
Baseline Pro Launch 2 kit/adjustable uppers
Pinion Bracing
Welded Tubes
3.90 Motives (should be good for 146-147 with a 6spd)
Cobra pinion flange
Baseline ARB
Moser Race spool
Moser 35 spline gun drilled axles
Moser Cover
UPR Upper/Lower battle box plates
5/8th studs
99 GT Springs
Strange Single Adjustable Shocks

 

· Registered
Joined
·
829 Posts
I've got a ported Eaton with bolt ons, and I'm ready for more traction and reliability when I go to a drag race 90 miles away, meaning I'll be driving to and from the track and also running the car at the track, so I need the reliability of a solid axle rear.

I plan to continue running my 28" tall M&H drag radials on my 10.5" Cobra wheels, so I'm definitely going to step up to 4.10 rear gears, but other parts have me a bit baffled.

Control arms I know I won't be reusing the stock ones coming off an 02 GT, so I'm wondering if I need adjustable uppers and lowers or will a solid aftermarket non adjustable be OK, I know I can get the BBK of UPR non adjustables for under 200, or is this whwere I should step up to adjustable ones for another 100-200$ The granatelli's or UMI's look like nice ones, but expensive?

Rear diff
I can go with a simple Ford tracion lock from jeggs for around 260$, but again would a Detroit True-trac, or an Auburn pro series be worh an extra 200 bones? I kind of like the Idea of the True-trac because it doesn't have any clutches that wear out and need replacing, but I'm also a big fan of money, so the traction lock from ford racing might be the ticket???

Springs I can't seem to find alot of options with springs other than the stock ones that I could re-use from the rearend doner car, or I see Eibach sells a launch set for around 250$. I've also read and heard of people using four cylinder fox mustang springs, but I'm not sure if that was aimed at the front suspension moreso than the rear? Again if the free springs I'll be acquiring with the rear will serve me fine, I'll save a couple hundred dollars and re-use them babies.

Shocks The price seems to go up quickly with double adjustable shocks, so I'd like to spend under 200$ on a decent set of single adjustables instead of 400-600$ double adjustables I've seen advertised in magazines, unless it's really necessary?

I'd appreciate any experience with these parts, the car isn't a daily driver, but I do need it to be street friendly and tough enough to abuse a bit at a track. I also need to drive it home from the track wich is out of town since there isn't a local drag track of any sorts. On a side note, I plan on using non "C" clip 31 spline axles from moser for a bit more durability and whatever the difference is with the abs system, I'll be getting that too. Any helpful advice would be great.
Control Arms: Yes, our poly/poly arms are only $179 for the set of four with the modularfords discount, but that's not really what I'd recommend for your combo. Based on your sig, I'm guessing your car is easily 10 second capable on slicks with a good rear end. That said, I'd either recommend our Pro Street arms which have a poly bushing on one end and a spherical bearing on the other end, or our Pro Series control arms which use Spherical/solid bushings. Honestly, I'd rather have you run the Pro Series arms, but if you're the kind of person that is really finicky about NVH, you might rather use the Pro Street arms which have a little less road feel to them.

You didn't mention a solid anti roll bar, but they certainly improve traction at your power level by controlling body roll. Our Pro Series control arms with the anti roll bar are available as a package in this kit: 1979-2004 Ford Mustang Pro Series Chrome Moly Rear Suspension Kit - UPR Products

Differential
: I've used the Pro Auburn and spools. I like them both, but I'd certainly consider the True Trac. Don't even bother with the FRPP traction lock diff.

Springs: The Eibach drag springs work well, and we sell them at UPR Products, but the rear springs are different weights left to right, and the right spring has an airbag. You don't need that setup with the solid anti-roll bar. So my recommendation is to use the stock GT springs if you use our Pro Series rear suspension or the Eibach drag springs if you use our Pro Street control arms without the solid anti roll bar.

Shocks
: Dude, I've been 1.39 to the 60-foot clock on Lakewood 50/50s, and we sell them at UPR Products (along with the Strange 10-ways and the QA1 adjustables) but for your application and budget, I'd recommend the Strange 10-ways. 1994-2002 Ford Mustang Strange 10 Way Adjustable Shock S6004LM - UPR Products

This all looks like a solid setup for you, particularly since I think I saw that you already have subframe connectors. But have you looked at torque box reinforcements? They are certainly useful with heavy duty drag suspension: 79-04 Mustang Heavy Duty Upper/Lower Torque Box Kit

For the record, All UPR Products are Made in America, they carry a Lifetime Guarantee, and you get a 10% discount on anything we manufacture, just for being a modularfords member.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,062 Posts
Control Arms: Yes, our poly/poly arms are only $179 for the set of four with the modularfords discount, but that's not really what I'd recommend for your combo. Based on your sig, I'm guessing your car is easily 10 second capable on slicks with a good rear end. That said, I'd either recommend our Pro Street arms which have a poly bushing on one end and a spherical bearing on the other end, or our Pro Series control arms which use Spherical/solid bushings. Honestly, I'd rather have you run the Pro Series arms, but if you're the kind of person that is really finicky about NVH, you might rather use the Pro Street arms which have a little less road feel to them.

You didn't mention a solid anti roll bar, but they certainly improve traction at your power level by controlling body roll. Our Pro Series control arms with the anti roll bar are available as a package in this kit: 1979-2004 Ford Mustang Pro Series Chrome Moly Rear Suspension Kit - UPR Products

Differential
: I've used the Pro Auburn and spools. I like them both, but I'd certainly consider the True Trac. Don't even bother with the FRPP traction lock diff.

Springs: The Eibach drag springs work well, and we sell them at UPR Products, but the rear springs are different weights left to right, and the right spring has an airbag. You don't need that setup with the solid anti-roll bar. So my recommendation is to use the stock GT springs if you use our Pro Series rear suspension or the Eibach drag springs if you use our Pro Street control arms without the solid anti roll bar.

Shocks
: Dude, I've been 1.39 to the 60-foot clock on Lakewood 50/50s, and we sell them at UPR Products (along with the Strange 10-ways and the QA1 adjustables) but for your application and budget, I'd recommend the Strange 10-ways. 1994-2002 Ford Mustang Strange 10 Way Adjustable Shock S6004LM - UPR Products

This all looks like a solid setup for you, particularly since I think I saw that you already have subframe connectors. But have you looked at torque box reinforcements? They are certainly useful with heavy duty drag suspension: 79-04 Mustang Heavy Duty Upper/Lower Torque Box Kit

For the record, All UPR Products are Made in America, they carry a Lifetime Guarantee, and you get a 10% discount on anything we manufacture, just for being a modularfords member.
Good info.
What is you input on struts?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
643 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sharad, Thanks for all the input and links to the kits, I do want to retain stockish tail-pipes, so the anti-roll bar seams out of the question, and I also do not want alot of noise transferring into the cabin.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
798 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
643 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·

· Registered
Joined
·
829 Posts
Good info.
What is you input on struts?
Thanks. My strut suggestions are pretty much the same as my shock suggestions. I've been fast on Lakewood 90/10s which are inexpensive, but basic. 94-04 Mustang Lakewood 90/10 Drag Strut

The Strange 10-ways are actually a couple bucks cheaper and I really like their adjustability. I used to roll around with them fairly soft for good drag launches and ride comfort on my '04, but then when I was feeling froggy, I'd just pull into a parking lot, crank up the dampeners and go hang some corners. 1994-2004 Ford Mustang Strange 10 Way Adjustable Strut S6005LM - UPR Products

However, if I thought you were super serious about drag specific performance, I'd rather see you in the QA1 adjustables. The thing is, they're twice as much as the other two struts, but they do work very well on the strip! 1994-2004 Ford Mustang QA1 Single Adjustable Strut HS603 - UPR Products

Sharad, Thanks for all the input and links to the kits, I do want to retain stockish tail-pipes, so the anti-roll bar seams out of the question, and I also do not want alot of noise transferring into the cabin.
No problem!

Here's the deal, since you're more concerned about the noise, I'm gonna make a very specific recommendation for you. It's not as hardcore as I usually run on my own cars, but it works very well and it has a lifetime guarantee, so you're good to go:

Eibach drag springs. These things work great. They're not super stiff or super low, so they ride nicely, but they have an airbag in the right rear spring to limit body roll for when you're drag racing. (then you deflate the bag and you're back to normal)

1979-2004 Ford Mustang UPR Pro Series Drag Launch Springs by Eibach - UPR Products

Pro Street control arms. These have a nice smooth weight transfer, but they only have spherical bearings on one end of each arm, so the other end soaks up some of the NVH. Since you won't be using a solid anti-roll bar, I want you to use a factory GT rear swaybar because it does actually help limit the body roll on the launch. As a matter of fact, it's pretty effective when used with the air bag in the right rear spring. Now listen up because this part's important. I'm gonna post a link to our standard Pro Street kit, but it doesn't show the UCAs with sphericals on one end. Anyway, what you'd have to do is order the Pro Street arms, but let me know when you're going to order them so I can make sure they ship you UCAs WITH sphericals on one end.

1999-2004 Ford Mustang Pro Street Adjustable Upper & Lower Control Arm Package

Of course, the shock and torque box reinforcements I made before are still valid.

With what I remember about your engine combo, I'd say your car will be a daily drivable 10-second car on this suspension and good tires.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
798 Posts
However, if I thought you were super serious about drag specific performance, I'd rather see you in the QA1 adjustables. The thing is, they're twice as much as the other two struts, but they do work very well on the strip! 1994-2004 Ford Mustang QA1 Single Adjustable Strut HS603 - UPR Products
Does that double price include the right out of the box cost of rebuild?

Eibach drag springs. These things work great. They're not super stiff or super low, so they ride nicely, but they have an airbag in the right rear spring to limit body roll for when you're drag racing. (then you deflate the bag and you're back to normal)

1979-2004 Ford Mustang UPR Pro Series Drag Launch Springs by Eibach - UPR Products
Band-aid!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
829 Posts
Please explain why you would suggest a staggered spring and airbag for this application?
Obviously, for a 10-second recipe, I'd like to see him running our Pro Series suspension. As our SRA-swapped Terminator customers here on modularfords and elsewhere will attest, it works really well and it's very reliable. These cars are running in the 1.30-40 range to the 60-foot. However, based on Jeff's post below and a couple other comments he's made about the importance of the car's street manners, it seems to me that he would not like our solid control arm & solid anti-roll bar setup. But that's fine. He can easily run in the 1.40 range with the setup I recommended, maybe even faster, so I think it's a good compromise in the interest of a smoother quieter ride.

Sharad, Thanks for all the input and links to the kits, I do want to retain stockish tail-pipes, so the anti-roll bar seams out of the question, and I also do not want alot of noise transferring into the cabin.
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top