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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a used 100mm idler pulley from a local guy who was demodding his car. It was only on his car for about 300 miles and since I installed it 2 weeks ago it seems to be wobbling and has a slight squeek to it. I've sent an email to the guy I bought it from but I think he's on vacation till next Monday so I thought I would post here to see what everyone thinks. It looks exactly like the one in the attachment (this isn't my car, I stole this picutre from a different thread). With the car running I can watch the pulley wobble a little and it squeaks slightly. All the bolts are tight and it looks like its the bearing that is bad. With the engine off I'm able to wobble the pulley with my hand while the other stock pulleys don't move at all (as a comparison). Should I take this off my car ASAP until I can get a replacement? I'm starting to get afraid that it's going to completely give and seriously break something when it goes.

Thanks for the advice.
 

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You can replace the bearing. There is info on this site about the bearings used in the Metco pulley.
 
G

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is the bearing bad?

is the bearing wobbling?

or

is the bearing wobbling in the pulley?

if it's a bad bearing.... just remove the pulley and go to a bearing supply house and get a new one or remove the sealand repack with good grease

if the bearing is ok and the bearing is wobbling in the bore of the pulley you could try to Loc-tite the bearing on the bore.

P.S. the bearing should "wobble" a little...but not Squeak.

Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the responses.

Now that I think back to the first few days after I installed it, I did have to wipe a bit of grease off the pully because it was being flung out of the bearing.

Also, this is going off memory since I haven't looked at it since last night after work, but from what I remember the pulley was wobbling right at the bearing. It looked like the problem was the bearing itself and not that the bearing was wobbling inside the pulley.

You mention going to a bearing supply house and getting a new one. Do you mean going to a place like autozone or pep boys and getting a new bearing from them, or do I need a place that specializes in bearings?
 

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I had two of mine start doing that and ended up replacing the belt after it shredded due to the pulley walking off the bearing. I would buy Billetflows newer design (been out for months) and install it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Bingo13 said:
I had two of mine start doing that and ended up replacing the belt after it shredded due to the pulley walking off the bearing. I would buy Billetflows newer design (been out for months) and install it.
Dang, that is exactly what I didn't want to hear. Even though I bought it used, I hate to think that I threw $120 away when a new and improved version was available. I guess I should have done my homework before I bought. I don't know why I didn't with this piece. Everythign else I buy I internet research until I'm blue in the face.
 

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The one in the picture is a Metco, I think. The one that Bingo is talking about is a Billetflow, different mfr. I recently had to replace a squeaky bearing in a Ford idler, the trick is to find a high quality bearing of the same size. I also tried repacking the bearing but the noise came back after a week.


Bill
 

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2kbill said:
The one in the picture is a Metco, I think. The one that Bingo is talking about is a Billetflow, different mfr. I recently had to replace a squeaky bearing in a Ford idler, the trick is to find a high quality bearing of the same size. I also tried repacking the bearing but the noise came back after a week.

Bill
I had the first design BF go bad and two of the Metco type go bad (replaced the BF, should have waited on the fix). I have ordered Doug's new design (no reported failures) for my car.
 

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Voice of Reason said:
Thanks for the responses.

You mention going to a bearing supply house and getting a new one. Do you mean going to a place like autozone or pep boys and getting a new bearing from them, or do I need a place that specializes in bearings?
If it is just the bearing (make sure the bearing is not wobbling
on the mounting bolt), you can get the bearing at most any auto parts store. The size is a "203" series, which is exactly what used to be used in all Delco Remy (GM) alternaotors and Motorcraft (Ford) alternators for the front bearing. This size bearing is offered with the "FF" for the soft seal, or "SS" for the stainless steel seals ->> 203SS is a BCA part number that can be crossed over to other brands (***, NSK, Fafnir, etc). If you look for the bearing, another option is the 1203 series (same inside dia, outside dia, and width) with more balls inside than the 203 series. It might just be the ticket for durability. FYI, the bearings are prolly about $5 each - I sold em a long time ago at $3.

Ratt
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, it turns out the squeak is coming from something else. I removed the idler yesterday and took it to an auto parts store to get a new bearing and drove the car. When I got back and pulled in the garage I hear the squeaking, but think to myself "how is it squeaking, the idler isn't on the car?" I think the squeak is the belt itself, which is a little dissapointing since its only been on the car for 2 weeks. When I drove to work to write this (home internet connection is down) I had the squeak for the first 10 min of my drive hear but when I pulled into the parking lot it was all but gone. I guess I'll just drive it like this for a while to see what happens.

Oh, and as for the idler. I replaced the bearing with what is suppoed to be a better one (at least the parts guy told me it was). Once reinstalled it does have a slight wobble to it but not as bad as before. I guess at least now I know it isn't causing the problem :) Thanks for all the responses everyone. :salute
 

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Take the outer belt off completely and run the engine that way for a while. You can eliminate all the pulleys and everyting they drive that way. There is a whole second set of puleys and a belt behind the first one. At least you will know which set to look at.

BTW, running it that way won't hurt anythiing, you are just taking the alternator and blower and related pulleys out of the loop for a little while.

To help narrow it down, you can take a long screwdriver, if you don't have a stethescope handy, and listen at each bearing hub for one that seems louder the the rest.

You mentioned the possibility of it being the belt. Is the belt near the end of the tensioner's travel? Could it just be a little too loose and slipping? Usually the alternator will load up the system for a few minutes after the car is started to replace the charge in the battery used to start the car. When the battery is back to normal levels, the alternator load drops off and so does the strain on the belt.

Dana
 
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