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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am lacking alot of pics from the process but was asked to describe it on another forum so thought I'd share here as well. Any discrepancies due to FI setups can be accounted for easily so plan ahead. so here goes.
**DISCLAIMER- I AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE OR INJURY THAT MAY OCCUR FROM THIS METHOD OF REMOVING AN ENGINE FROM THE BOTTOM OF A VEHICLE, ANY PARTY ATTEMPTING THIS METHOD DOES SO AT THEIR OWN RISK**

You'll want to remove the steering arm and shifter first then put the car on jackstands so you can get under the car. Drain the oil, coolant, power steering, and trans fluids next. Then remove the midpipe, and driveshaft. Start disconnecting the wiring harness, clutch cable, power steering lines and rad hoses. Remove the front tires and front bumper. Now you can start removing the front brakes (so they don't lay on the ground) front sway bar, front springs, and struts (these can remain attached to the spindle but must come out of the strut tower). In the engine bay you will remove any piping going to the throttle body, disconnect the ground wires going to the driver side motor mount, and disconnect the wiring harness at the main terminal in the back pass side corner (it's a black box with a bolt on the top of it. Unbolt, then disconnect-and this way you don't have to disconnect every little connector while the motor is in the car.) Also- disconnect any fuel lines you have going to the rails (leaving the rails on to save time). Now take the jacks that are under the rear of the car out and place one under the back of the trans (under the crossmember), loosen the crossmember and make sure it's clear of the brackets. Roll a jack under the front of the car and place under the kmember. Now you'll want to take a tow strap and wrap it around the front core support in a fashion similar to my pic. The hood will have to be raised higher than the arm will usually hold it so find something to hold it open more than usual- I use a piece of wood for this. Attach the strap to the cherry picker and make real ****ing sure you feel good and confident about the connection here.

Raise the picker until there is tension on the strap-now raise the front of the car with the jack under the kmember and the picker. Remove the jacks under the front of the car. Now lower the front of the car to the point that the jack under the k member is fully lowered. Now you remove the 8 bolts holding the kmember to the chassis. Make sure during this process that the trans is still secure, and nothing is still attached. This will need to be repeated constantly as you move the chassis away. Now that the kmember is free and the engine is low as it can go- start raising the picker. Be careful to observe the rear of the car as well during this part in the process so that you can make sure not to hit the catback or bumper on the ground. Raise the front of the car as high as you can, when you get to the point of the chassis being clear- use the picker to pull the front of the car to whichever side you can in your garage. When successful you will be left with the motor and trans simply sitting there.
 

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Thanks for the write up. Tried it last time, chickened out LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
it's very daunting the first time. putting it back in is worse imo since we tend to be impatient to get the car back on the road. many beers are sacrificed to the car gods upon successful completion.
 

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I've always preferred pulling the motor up and out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've always preferred pulling the motor up and out.
I would agree that it might be easier- but some setups (mine included) the headers will not allow up and out. So instead of dropping the kmember and struggling to get the headers out from the bottom- I simply remove the motor from the bottom and save alot of time
 

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I would agree that it might be easier- but some setups (mine included) the headers will not allow up and out. So instead of dropping the kmember and struggling to get the headers out from the bottom- I simply remove the motor from the bottom and save alot of time
I would agree with this statement if a lift was used, as bottom up is how its installed. But pulling the car up by straps, from obviously not from the correct mount points isn't something I'd campaign. And the header thing, you can unmount them and leave them in car, and lift the engine out. The reason is sound, but the method in which it has been done is wrong and can be dangerous. Not to mention the unseen body stresses caused from lifting the car by its core support. I own headers as well, the time spent on unmounting them takes some but not a lot of time. Maybe a better designed header is in order?

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Bottom is super easy when done a different way. I put the rear on ramps and the front on some tall stands after removing the blower. I remove the tranny, leave the bell. Then get yourself an atv jack. Slowly lower, roll out from under the car. I do this in a stuffed 2 car garage that only fits one and isnt very deep. Cars stays put and door closes. My record is just over three hours by myself. Last time took 5 as apparently I'm getting old.. ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wish I could take my bell housing off to remove trans. Its a catch 22 For me as I have kooks headers and a built t45, so headers have to come off before the trans.
 
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