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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My engine ticks when it is cold and I am trying to figure out why. I had the cam covers off today to see if it was anything obvious. When I pulled the lash adjusters I could not compress any of them by hand at all. To reinstall them I had to compress them with a c-clamp. Once I c-clamped them they would move very freely but only to the point where I compressed them with the clamp. Is this normal? My followers and cams looked great.
 

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My engine ticks when it is cold and I am trying to figure out why. I had the cam covers off today to see if it was anything obvious. When I pulled the lash adjusters I could not compress any of them by hand at all. To reinstall them I had to compress them with a c-clamp. Once I c-clamped them they would move very freely but only to the point where I compressed them with the clamp. Is this normal? My followers and cams looked great.
When inspecting lash adjusters check for any damage or signs contamination i.e. rust, sludge build up. also they should easily be removed and reinstalled into their bores. i dont understand why you had to compress them to reinstall them. you should have already the roller followers removed prior to removing the lash adjustors. also the only proper way to test hydraulic lash adjustors (if nothing is visibly or clearly wrong with them of course) is to perform a leak down test using the appropriate special tools. Ford says that they should leakdown in 5-25 secs to pass. too fast = a collapsed adjustor, too slow = a stuck/binding or plugged adjustor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The compression was required to reinstall the follower. With out the lash adjuster compressed the follower would hit it and not slide over the top of it.
 

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The compression was required to reinstall the follower. With out the lash adjuster compressed the follower would hit it and not slide over the top of it.
were you using the proper valve spring compressor and turning the crankshaft as needed the the piston of the clyinder which you are removing or reinstalling the follower to be at BDC. And of course so that you are not on the lift side of the cam lobe for that cylinder. because ive never had an issue with them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was at the base circle of the lobe but I was not using a spring compressor at all. I know you are supposed to but the followers still just pop on and off. Prying the follower over the lash adjuster compress the spring and it pops on. My main question is how hard should a good lifter be to compress?
 

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I was at the base circle of the lobe but I was not using a spring compressor at all. I know you are supposed to but the followers still just pop on and off. Prying the follower over the lash adjuster compress the spring and it pops on. My main question is how hard should a good lifter be to compress?
I dont know how many miles you have on your vehicle but next time it is ticking/noisey when its cold use a stethoscope or a suitable noise amplyfing tool(screwdriver, pry bar) with you ear up to it and try to locate where the noise is actually coming from. put the tool on the cam cover bolts that are on the adjuster side of the cylinder head and locate it to a bank or a particular adjuster if possible. if you cant locate the noise to be in the valve train/ cylinder head then it is more likey the timing chain tensioners taking a while to pump up and take up the slack in the chains. that is more common, usually a collapsed lifter will pang like a son of b****.
 

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I was at the base circle of the lobe but I was not using a spring compressor at all. I know you are supposed to but the followers still just pop on and off. Prying the follower over the lash adjuster compress the spring and it pops on. My main question is how hard should a good lifter be to compress?
you shouldn't be able to compress a lash adjuster by hand, if you can its bad. you need to bleed them down with a rag in a bench vice slowly and then release slowly not letting the adjuster suck any of the oil back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The_1_duffman: The car has 83,000 on it. I did do the stethoscope and it was not conclusive. I thought I heard something under the drivers side VC but my recent inspection did not reveal anything. I was also thinking to check the chain tensioners next.

jomull55: Thanks that is what I needed to know because I could not compress any of mine by hand. I used a c-clamp and they were still very hard to move. I had to go really slow. That confirms I do not have a lash adjuster issue I guess I'll move to tensioners.

BUT I have read a lot of threads for cold eng ticks and people have systematically replaced all of there valve train and timing chain components with out finding or fixing the tick. This worries me and I wish i could find something that is obviously bad instead of just throwing money at it. The other thing is most cold ticks that are not found or fixed seem to be blamed on piston slap!!!
 

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The_1_duffman: The car has 83,000 on it. I did do the stethoscope and it was not conclusive. I thought I heard something under the drivers side VC but my recent inspection did not reveal anything. I was also thinking to check the chain tensioners next.

jomull55: Thanks that is what I needed to know because I could not compress any of mine by hand. I used a c-clamp and they were still very hard to move. I had to go really slow. That confirms I do not have a lash adjuster issue I guess I'll move to tensioners.

BUT I have read a lot of threads for cold eng ticks and people have systematically replaced all of there valve train and timing chain components with out finding or fixing the tick. This worries me and I wish i could find something that is obviously bad instead of just throwing money at it. The other thing is most cold ticks that are not found or fixed seem to be blamed on piston slap!!!
Well it is easy to blame piston slap for cold noise on an engine that inherently has a degree of piston slap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OEM Ford
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The_1_duffman: If all engines have a little piston slap then do all engine, with this kind of mileage, tick a little?
 

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The_1_duffman: If all engines have a little piston slap then do all engine, with this kind of mileage, tick a little?
no, not all engines have the amount of piston slap that a 4.6 does. ford even says that a certain degree of piston slap in a 4.6 is normal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
When I said all, I meant all 4.6L's. Well I guess I'll have to start replacing parts to see if mine is "normal"!
 

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When I said all, I meant all 4.6L's. Well I guess I'll have to start replacing parts to see if mine is "normal"!
If you can locate the noise to a particlar area of the engine i.e: the valtrain, the timing components, or the engine block then it will lead you to what is wrong with it. un fortunatly it could be you lash adjusters taking too long to pump up with oil which could be caused by them have a little too much garbage inside them, or it could be that the oil supplied to them is insuffieciant upon cold start-up which would point towards partially clogged oil passages or an inefficient oil pump(maybe the pick-up screen is plugged a little). But as previously stated it could be the chain tensionors or it could be piston slap. Hell ive heard noisey injectors that sound so loud you think they are a lash adjustor. thats why properly trouble shooting the noise is so important. Here is all the things Ford says will cause engine noise and its up to the technician(you) to decide whats relevant based on the noise thats heard and where its isolated to:
  • Leaking exhaust system.
  • REPAIR exhaust leakage.
  • Incorrect drive belt tension.
  • Malfunctioning generator bearing.
  • Refer to the appropriate section in Group 414 for the procedure.
  • Malfunctioning water pump bearing.
  • Malfunctioning or damaged cooling system.
  • Malfunctioning or damaged fuel system.
  • Refer to the appropriate section in Group 303 for the procedure. REFER to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual.
  • Loose timing chain/belt (6268).
  • ADJUST or INSTALL a new timing chain/belt.
  • Damaged timing chain tensioner (6L266).
  • INSTALL a new timing chain tensioner.
  • Excessive main bearing clearance.
  • CAUTION: Remove the cylinder heads before removing the crankshaft. Failure to do so can result in engine damage.
    ADJUST clearance or INSTALL a new crankshaft main bearing (6333).
  • Seized or heat damaged crankshaft main bearing.
  • INSTALL a new crankshaft main bearing.
  • Excessive crankshaft end play.
  • INSTALL a new thrust bearing or crankshaft (6303).
  • Excessive connecting rod bearing clearance.
  • INSTALL a new connecting rod bearing or connecting rod (6200).
  • Heat damaged connecting rod bearing (6211).
  • INSTALL a new connecting rod bearing.
  • Damaged connecting rod bushing (6207).
  • INSTALL a new connecting rod bushing.
  • Worn cylinder.
  • REPAIR or INSTALL a new cylinder block (6010).
  • Worn piston (6108) or piston pin (6135).
  • INSTALL a new piston or piston pin.
  • Damaged piston rings.
  • INSTALL new piston rings.
  • Bent connecting rod.
  • INSTALL a new connecting rod.
  • Malfunctioning valve tappet (6500) or lash adjuster.
  • INSTALL a new valve tappet or lash adjuster.
  • Excessive valve tappet or lash adjuster clearance.
  • ADJUST clearance or INSTALL a new valve tappet guide or valve tappet.
  • Broken valve spring (6513).
  • INSTALL a new valve spring.
  • Excessive valve guide clearance.
  • ADJUST clearance or INSTALL a new valve guide (6510) and stem.
 

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Valve guides could be worn. You need to have the valve open and check for movement of the valve stem by applying pressure, not too much, at the top of the vlave stem and see if there's excessive play, rocking the top of the valve back and forth. Normally 90 deg to the centre line of the engine. Normally though, guide wear is heard warm as well. Also it's very common for pistons with small skirts to slap against the cylinder walls, when cold, when there's wear. After they pistons warm up, the slap dissapears. An engine with cold piston slap can run for thousands of miles without any issues.
If it only does it cold, I wouldn't even worry about it. Drive it easy cold, which is what everyone should do anyway, and when it starts to get bad warm then address it.
 

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I just rememered. lol. I had a cold engine tick a few years ago when I ran mobile 1 synthetic with a Fram oil filter. Switched to 5w-30 non synthetic, and AC Delco filter, and no more tick cold.
Mine is a low mileage 58,000 km car, that i store through the winter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Maybe I'll try the oil change because I currently use Mobile 1 5w-20 Full syn with an OEM filter. Thanks I'll try 5w-30 non syn next time. That will be cheaper then replacing all of my lash adjusters and chain tensioners!!
 

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R Getz

have a 97 f150 with a 4.6 truck set for a time gas varnished up tried to start found fuel pump was bad replaced fuel tank, pump, filter, injectors, & plugs was able to get running but had dead cylinders found rockers off of #1 #5 #6 #7 exhaust valves put rockers back in place turned engine over by hand rockers looked to be working normal installed valve covers started engine run a little rough at idle but smoothed out at higher rpm drove truck about 5 miles and engine seems to have dead cylinders again. lash adjusters could not be compressed by hand, do not understand why the rockers would have come off again as engine was up to temp. before driven and did not have any noise. anybody have any idea why it would do this?
 

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You do realize your post to this thread is more than 11 years older than the last posting in the thread?

Even if the OP still had the car (very doubtful) he hasn't been on the site in years.


Ed
 
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