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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well Some of you guys knows that I'm waiting for my car arrival & knows how exciting it can be. I've been waiting 2 months & when i receive it.. i want to try a test drive to see how torquey these beasts are. well I know that these cars can break diff covers at stock power level. the Question is: if i wanted to do a 2nd gear roll.. let's say a 40 mph start. with 400 rwhp is it going to hop at that speed & break the diff cover? i know this might be a stupid question, but i don't want to risk blowing my diff cover!.

I'm going to order the IRS Brace, but i'm not going to wait 1 month. it's not safe running the car from a dig, Right? just trying to make sure that i don't make any mistakes. :thanks: thanks folks.

- 03Cobran00b
 

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Well Some of you guys knows that I'm waiting for my car arrival & knows how exciting it can be. I've been waiting 2 months & when i receive it.. i want to try a test drive to see how torquey these beasts are. well I know that these cars can break diff covers at stock power level. the Question is: if i wanted to do a 2nd gear roll.. let's say a 40 mph start. with 400 rwhp is it going to hop at that speed & break the diff cover? i know this might be a stupid question, but i don't want to risk blowing my diff cover!.

I'm going to order the IRS Brace, but i'm not going to wait 1 month. it's not safe running the car from a dig, Right? just trying to make sure that i don't make any mistakes. :thanks: thanks folks.

- 03Cobran00b
Your not likely to bread the diff cover bone stock unless you are really beating on it. My car saw it's first 13000 "spirited" miles with no diff cover. Just get it on when you can but don't worry about driving it hard.

Diff covers brake launching at the track on good tires and sticky track. Wheel hop is bad too but if it hops just back off of it.
 

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I dont have a brace, but if i do a 2nd gear 40 on a COOL-cold night ill get alittle hop but i always get out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wheel hop is going to be your biggest cause of a leaking diff or broken diff cover. IRS brace is a must.
I souldn't just worry about having a blown cover & worry about having a leaking diff... right? what is the reason i'm going to have a leaking diff? is it the cracks? why not just save my money & buy a whole new diff cover like LPW diff cover. i know that the cost of taking the cover off is going to be expensive compared to just bolt the brace. i just don't want this leaking problem hunt me later.

Is the LPW going to hold the power & stress these cars make or it's just a waste of money? will it fit right? no issues? thanks.
 

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IMO an IRS brace and some good subframe connectors to the two most priority mods for these cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
IMO an IRS brace and some good subframe connectors to the two most priority mods for these cars.
I'm going to order the full length sub-frame connectors. but the problem about ordering these suckers is... it needs to be shipped individually & shipping these SOB's costs money. oh well, it's worth it.
 

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I think if you are still on street tires you'll be fine. I drove mine for 4 years without a brace before finally the Mickey Thompson's and the KB destroyed my ring and pinion. I think had I had the brace I would not have seen that type of failure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think if you are still on street tires you'll be fine. I drove mine for 4 years without a brace before finally the Mickey Thompson's and the KB destroyed my ring and pinion. I think had I had the brace I would not have seen that type of failure.
Thanks for the input speeddemon2000, that was a releif.:thumb3:

since we're on the subject... can anyone tell me, which IRS brace is the best in the market? (Billitflow, Steeda, etc...) I've heard that the steeda have 6 connect points, while the BF have 5 contact points, :mellow:i'm not sure about that?
 

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The first mod I did to my car was a billetflow IRS brace. Its cheap insurance in my opinion. The very last mod that I have done were the steeda full length weld in subframe connectors. If I had it to do all over again those would be 1 and 2 on my list. And I have a 5.0L stroker, 2.2KB, blah, blah, blah(617/606).

Look at it this way, you will be happy with the power the car is making when you first get it so go ahead and do mods that wont give you power, but give you insurance and reliability. As they might not seem important now, they will be later down the road.

Trust me once you get bit buy the "I need more power" bug it really sucks buying parts that dont give you more of it, but are required for you to have that power.

Now this is all just in my opinion, but I think its a good starting point for you.

keep us posted,
Josh
 

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Thanks for the input speeddemon2000, that was a releif.:thumb3:

since we're on the subject... can anyone tell me, which IRS brace is the best in the market? (Billitflow, Steeda, etc...) I've heard that the steeda have 6 connect points, while the BF have 5 contact points, :mellow:i'm not sure about that?
I have a Billetflow brace on my car, but both do the job just fine. I would have no problem whatsoever running a Steeda brace on my car, and I infact like Steeda parts. Again either brace will work fine.
 

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I have a Billetflow brace on my car, but both do the job just fine. I would have no problem whatsoever running a Steeda brace on my car, and I infact like Steeda parts. Again either brace will work fine.
I agree with JROC here. I love my Steeda subframe connectors a lot. I have yet to see or read about a Billetflow brace breaking, so I would just go with which ever one you can get the best deal on.

later,
Josh
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The first mod I did to my car was a billetflow IRS brace. Its cheap insurance in my opinion. The very last mod that I have done were the steeda full length weld in subframe connectors. If I had it to do all over again those would be 1 and 2 on my list. And I have a 5.0L stroker, 2.2KB, blah, blah, blah(617/606).

Look at it this way, you will be happy with the power the car is making when you first get it so go ahead and do mods that wont give you power, but give you insurance and reliability. As they might not seem important now, they will be later down the road.

Trust me once you get bit buy the "I need more power" bug it really sucks buying parts that dont give you more of it, but are required for you to have that power.

Now this is all just in my opinion, but I think its a good starting point for you.

keep us posted,
Josh
i'm starting to fall in love with this messageboard. thanks SlowImport for the advice. like i said before.. i'm going to have these parts on my car. i appreciate any advice/input on the subject. it really helps. yeah i know.. this mod bug is a b***h... i'm afraid that i'm going to get bit by it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have a Billetflow brace on my car, but both do the job just fine. I would have no problem whatsoever running a Steeda brace on my car, and I infact like Steeda parts. Again either brace will work fine.
Thanks JROC. the problem is... I'm going to order parts from lethalperformance.com & lethal doesn't have any Billitflow IRS Brace right now. i think i'm going with steeda on this one.
 

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Get a brace, steeda is a nice sturdy piece. Get your funds together for subframe connectors as well. Then you will be ready to think pulley and tune etc.
 
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