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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If you do the KB Throttle Body there are some issues.
1. It comes with 4-bolts, but they are different sizes and only two of them actually fit the installation. This means you have to continue using 2 of the factory bolts. I put their two on top since they were showy allen head pieces.
2. The idle set screw was substantially high on my car and actually caused a SES for high idle. It was idling around 1K. The instructions state specifically not to mess with it. Fortunately I don't always listen to instructions. I moved the set screw so now my idle is at 750-800 and it idles perfect now and solid. No more SES.
3. The instructions suck for calibrating the TPS so if you don't know how to do it you’re basically screwed. To set the TPS you need to turn the car to on not running just on. Then probe the center wire with positive and ground with the negative. I usually bring ground right to the battery since it is right there. You rotate the TPS until you get an output voltage of 0.98-1.00 at idle position. Once you have the output voltage set and it tightened down it is good to go.
4. The spring on the throttle is definitely to weak for operation. I left my house for a normal drive luckily it wasn’t spirited or I would have had a bigger problem. When I disengaged the clutch at around 2500 rpm the rpm stayed there for a bit and then started going down very slowly. I then did it at around 3000 rpm and the rpm started climbing and I had to go to a high gear to pull the rpms back down. I went to my local Lowe’s and had to buy a 5/16”x3”x0.028” spring. I put it on and now it works right you let go of the throttle and it goes right down to around 1100-1200 rpm then settles down to idle at 750-800 rpm.
 

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Snake Charmer
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toofast4u said:
If you do the KB Throttle Body there are some issues.
1. It comes with 4-bolts, but they are different sizes and only two of them actually fit the installation. This means you have to continue using 2 of the factory bolts. I put their two on top since they were showy allen head pieces.
2. The idle set screw was substantially high on my car and actually caused a SES for high idle. It was idling around 1K. The instructions state specifically not to mess with it. Fortunately I don't always listen to instructions. I moved the set screw so now my idle is at 750-800 and it idles perfect now and solid. No more SES.
3. The instructions suck for calibrating the TPS so if you don't know how to do it you're basically screwed. To set the TPS you need to turn the car to on not running just on. Then probe the center wire with positive and ground with the negative. I usually bring ground right to the battery since it is right there. You rotate the TPS until you get an output voltage of 0.98-1.00 at idle position. Once you have the output voltage set and it tightened down it is good to go.
4. The spring on the throttle is definitely to weak for operation. I left my house for a normal drive luckily it wasn't spirited or I would have had a bigger problem. When I disengaged the clutch at around 2500 rpm the rpm stayed there for a bit and then started going down very slowly. I then did it at around 3000 rpm and the rpm started climbing and I had to go to a high gear to pull the rpms back down. I went to my local Lowe's and had to buy a 5/16"x3"x0.028" spring. I put it on and now it works right you let go of the throttle and it goes right down to around 1100-1200 rpm then settles down to idle at 750-800 rpm.
Its actually an accufab unit and I didnt have any issues with the bolts being too short, but I did have idle problems due to the weak spring, I also added an external unit to mine. Where did you attach your spring?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Re: KB Throttle Body Issues

I know it is an accufab unit. The other two bolts are not to short they are a different diameter and actually can be pushed into the hole they are that much smaller.

 

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Snake Charmer
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Re: Re: Re: KB Throttle Body Issues

toofast4u said:
I know it is an accufab unit. The other two bolts are not to short they are a different diameter and actually can be pushed into the hole they are that much smaller.
Strange, I didnt have that problem. I have my spring in the same spot, under WOT it rolls over the linkage, kinda ghetto, but I havent spent any time trying to find a better spot to put it. Did you notice the additional spring makes drivability much better as well?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
BilletFlow said:
Hey Doug I wanted a Billetflow TB, but for some reason both vendors I talked to told me not to and to get the KB unit. Now I wish I didn't listen to them.
 

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Whats Up TooFast? Its Black03 from the other forum. Man you and Mike5876 have got me itching for that Kenne Bell. Im probably going to order it this week. Someone said youll be up at PF Changs in Boca Thurs night. Ill try and make it up there I cant wait to see a KenneBell in person. Speak to you soon. BoostAddict
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
BoostAddict said:
Whats Up TooFast? Its Black03 from the other forum. Man you and Mike5876 have got me itching for that Kenne Bell. Im probably going to order it this week. Someone said youll be up at PF Changs in Boca Thurs night. Ill try and make it up there I cant wait to see a KenneBell in person. Speak to you soon. BoostAddict
I am not going to be a PF Changs in Boca I don't even know where one is. I will be at Tower's on Friday though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
A funny thing happened. By TB started sticking at idle bad. It would take sufficient pressure to move it and then it would rev up due to the pressure exerted. But the motor would come down to idle quickly like before. I checked the motor and the spring came off. I reattached the spring and it doesn't feel like it is sticking anymore. So originally I need to have the spring so that the rpms would come down after releasing the accelerator, but now I need it to keep from sticking.
 
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