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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well, last weekend when I first put the blower on the car and went to start it up it idles at 3,000 rpms. I had thought it was a leak somewhere so took everything back off and replaced every gasket. Now i go to start it up today and it STILL idles at 3,000 rpm after all of that trouble. I checked the TPS and it reads .99 volts so that is not the problem. Can someone please help me out with this. I have been w/o my car, which is my daily driver, for a week now and i am starting to wish i never got the damn kb. Any help would be appreciated.

PS. It is not a chip problem as it does the same thing with and without the chip.
 

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Did you adjust the Idle on the throttle body. If you take the hose off of the throttle body is the blade closed or open. If it is not closed you need to adjust the idle cable so that it is just barely cracked. If you change the idle you will need to readjust the TPS afterwards so that it is .96-.99 volts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am using the stock throttle body. I do not see why I need to change that? Shouldnt it be in the same place and idle just as stock?
 

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try disconnecting the cruise control cable..i bet its too tight!
 

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boostin'03 said:
I am using the stock throttle body. I do not see why I need to change that? Shouldnt it be in the same place and idle just as stock?
It should be in the same place, but obviously something is not right. Did you check and make sure the throttle plate inside the TB is almost completely closed? If it almost completely closed I have no idea how your motor is getting enough air to support combustion at 3K. Unless there is some vacuume line that is disconnected supplying the air in that case your A/F is completely screwed and it shouldn't be running anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes, the TB plate is just slighty cracked open. I am positive there is not a leak because I took the thing down twice . All of the hoses are connected
 

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Bluesmobile
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Time for a little basic troubleshooting.

First disconnect both cables from the throttle body.
If it now idles normally, you know it's one of them.

If not, dig a little deeper.
We'll skip the obvious vacuum leaks because you have said that isn't the problem.

Remove the IAC from the top of the throttle body and tape over the holes in the plenum.
Any better?
If not, back off the idle screw until the idle starts to drop to a normal level. When you do this, make certain that the TPS is not restricting the movement of the throttle blade.
You shouldn't assume that the idle screw setting will be the same as it was stock. Too many things have changed. I think that the throttle blade should be closed completely. The idle speed is actually conmtrolled by the IAC.

This should give you something to do for a while and eliminate some sources of trouble.

Dana
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, I have done everything that Dana has suggested and when I went to start it up this morning it started at about 2,000 RPM's then adjusted it self back to a little under 3,000. Would it hurt if i disconected the controll on the side of the TB and try to start up the car?
 

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Dana said:
I think that the throttle blade should be closed completely. The idle speed is actually conmtrolled by the IAC.
Hey Dana hows my favorite cop doing? I don't agree and actually would take Doug as the authority, but here is my opinion. The TB should be set to idle around 750 rpm after the car is at operating temperature with the IAC removed and the hole taped up. The IAC is to provide additional air bypass while the engine is cold to maintain idle during this time. After the idle is correctly set then the TPS should be checked to make sure it is still at ~0.96 volts. If both of those are set correctly then the IAC can be reinstalled. I actually found that doing this as stated above it actually fixed my stalling problem and I haven't had an issue with stallin in months since.
 

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boostin'03 said:
Ok, I have done everything that Dana has suggested and when I went to start it up this morning it started at about 2,000 RPM's then adjusted it self back to a little under 3,000. Would it hurt if i disconected the controll on the side of the TB and try to start up the car?
What control? The black box on the side of the TB is a TPS, throttle position sensor, its purpose is to tell the computer at what position the throttle is at and the range is 0-5 volts with 5 volts being wide open. I think it is only used during close loop operation and wouldn't disconnect it as the car should not run without it on.
 

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Hey doug what is the chance the stock TB blade is not staying closed because of the vacuum the new supercharger might be making during operation. I would think at idle that it would be close to the same as stock, but what do I know. Boostin btw what boost are you running on the supercharger?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
well im not running any boost seeing as I cant drive the car lol....but if you are refering the the pulley I have on it is a 17 lb pulley. Also with the idle screw all the way in not even touching the throttle control braket and witht he IAC off and taped up it still idles at 3,000 rpms
 

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First let me ask a few questions.

Did you remove the tps?
did you look all around the tb for binding?

Try this. Remove the connection on the IAC. what does it do? Try using some carb cleaner in the IAC It could be sticking. Remove trottle and cuise cables. start the car. Can you pull the linkage closed on the tb? If you removed the TPS it could be binding the TB also. Remove it and reinstall it. Let me know what you find.

Rick
 

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KB PROBLEM

Did you put the KB chip in? If you did; the connector may not be cleaned enough. Pull it out, and try it without the chip.

AMB
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
OK, I called up doug and he helped me fix the idle problem. It now idles normal. BUT now after i started it up and let it idle for 5 min the damn cat got REDDD hot i mean that thing was ganna melt down. Is this just a cloged cat, or something else? BTW It always crackled and poped every time i shut the car off before, and it is doing it now.
 

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boostin'03 said:
OK, I called up doug and he helped me fix the idle problem. It now idles normal. BUT now after i started it up and let it idle for 5 min the damn cat got REDDD hot i mean that thing was ganna melt down. Is this just a cloged cat, or something else? BTW It always crackled and poped every time i shut the car off before, and it is doing it now.
Damn chances are its clogged. Is it stock or aftermarket? You can't just take your car in to have the stock replaced now that you have the KB. Can you share what the fix was?
 
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boostin'03 said:
OK, I called up doug and he helped me fix the idle problem. It now idles normal. BUT now after i started it up and let it idle for 5 min the damn cat got REDDD hot i mean that thing was ganna melt down. Is this just a cloged cat, or something else? BTW It always crackled and poped every time i shut the car off before, and it is doing it now.
So it's fixed now? you never called me back so I'm just asken
 

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Bluesmobile
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OK, so what was the problem(s)?

Dana
 
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