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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got the Kenne bell installed a couple weeks ago. At first it pulled hard and quick. Then I noticed that I had a check engine light on and it was feeling sluggish. I brought it to the shop and dyno tested it. It came back lean and with only 530rwhp 453tq. But there wa a busted IAC that was tripping the computer. Some thought that maybe the computer was pulling timing because of this. I got a new burn from diablo and a new IAC and re-dynoed today. The results were not that great, only 505rwhp and 440tq, but the A/F is a bit richer. I don't understand where all the HP is going. I havent gotten the new gauges installed yet, but they checked the boost while on the dyno. I have the 3" pulley and should be making 17psi, but the gauge only read about 14-15psi. It felt better after the reburn, but still not the same as it did the first day I got it. As you can see from the dyno, the tq just isnt coming on like it does on other 03s, and you can feel the difference. Maybe ive just gotten used to the power, but i still should be making more than 500rwhp. the 2-3psi should explain some of this, but not really the 70hp or so I feel I am loosing. Any Ideas?

Mods:
Kenne Bell w/ 3" pulley and single blade inlet
Billetflow TB
Steeda intake w/ heat sheild
Full Bassani w/cats
55# injectors
NGK plugs
tensioner
diablo delta chip

Dyno:
Red- first run with old chip
Blue- New tune #1
Yellow- New tune #2
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am guessing it is the stock filter. My guy never told me otherwise. I never heard of anyone changing the filter. Have there been problems with them?
 

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Look for belt slippage, look for clutch slippage (sounds like that may be the culprit if it felt stronger at first) and re-evaluate your tune. There's a lot more to a tune that just A/F.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Doesn't look like belt slippage.

What are the tell tale signs of a slipping clutch? Now that you mention it, it doesn't seem to grab as well off the line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Eric Brooks said:
Could you smell the clutch while they dynoed it?
Hard to say, I was standing about 15' away from the garage. I might have smelled something slightly but dismissed it as just normal 6.5K engine aromas. Nothing was overbearing though. However, I did notice that between shifts there were slight signs of smoke coming from the tailpipes. Also noticed more frequent smokey startups since the KB.
 

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If your clutch is slipping badly on the dyno, it was probably making somewhere around 560-570 RWHP when you first put the KB on the car.

Keep in mind that the stock clutch is NEVER going to hold up to that kind of power and torque. If it pulled hard at first upon install and is a sled now, smart money says it's the clutch.

DON'T GET A NO-SLIP CLUTCH unless you are going to a live axle. But you need a clutch that is stronger than stock.

I recommend the D&D Motorsport dual-friction clutch. Be sure to have the flywheel cut with the clutch install to ensure against chatter with the replacement.

GOOD LUCK!!! Keep us in the loop!
 

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HAMMER said:
DON'T GET A NO-SLIP CLUTCH unless you are going to a live axle. But you need a clutch that is stronger than stock.
Be careful going with a stronger clutch our input shaft is weak and you will break it. Hopefully a solution comes soon or we will have to go with the Viper T-56 from D&D to hold the power.
 

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Don't get a NO SLIP clutch period ona street car. You need something that will slip. I would give SPEC a call, if it actually turns out that you have clutch problems. If it was slipping, I would suspect you would smell it (its obvious). If it was slipping enough to loose that much power, someone at the Mustang Magic would have noticed.
 

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Check your Boost Bypass Rod in the back. Mine came loose and I lost power and boost. Just my .02 cents worth !

JL
 

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Did you pull your plugs yet??? Start there so that you can eliminate low power due to detonation damage from having such a lean tune to start with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for all the input guys. I think I found the problem. Like dustoff said, I think its a bypass valve issue or a leak in the line. Maybe in the line to the boost gauge even. I noticed while driving today on the stock boost gauge when I nail it it only goes to about 8 or 9psi and slowly climbs up. Should be pegging 15-17psi. This might account for my weird torque curve and the low boost levels. The valve seems to be tight, but I think there might be a leak somewhere. Also talked to my guy and he said that the new tune is a safer tune with less timing, but it was programed to run w/ 17-19psi which might also help explain the loss in power. Should be resolved soon. Cross my fingers. Thanks again to all
 

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Hammer on the stock clutch not holding that kind of power my KB has been on for over 5 months, and has close to 6,000 hard miles on it with the clutch from the factory and no problems, I feel the clutch can last depending on how it is driven, I know I will need a new clutch soon though.
 

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With my first diablo chip I only put down 530rwhp with 3" pulley, dont have boost gauge installed yet but car felt solid all the way, didnt appear to be clutch slippage. Got new diablo burn a tad richer and went again today, AF was down to 11:1 at redline which is nice and safe but only put down 522rwhp, the car was hot and they had no fans going on heat exchanger, temp was mid 70's but dew point was a bit high. When I got home I check thed the boost dump selenoid and at idle it pulls it fully open and when I hit the throttle it closes it, seems to move freely from one end to other. I was expecting at least 550rwhp and Im not sure whats holding me back. I have the JLP CAI, bassani catted-x and cat back, accufab TB and KB with a 3" (ie 17psi) pulley and a 90mm idler for additional belt wrap. Dyno graph was nice and smooth so there doesnt seem to be any belt slippage. Dump valve seems to fully close, so im stumped.
 
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