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So when I had my engine built I decided to use Livernois drainbacks so the oil would drain back along the side of the block like the Ford GT supercar block does and is internally cast for that. This is for anyone who is thinking about doing this and the problems incurred with windage tray fitment. I butchered up a nice Canton windage tray by attempting to cut out 1/2" holes in it so the drainbacks would slide over the drainback funnell and lay flush to the pan rail on the block. I weakened the tray by drilling the holes needed for fitment. I was going to skip the full length windage tray altogether but was prompted by Ed to run a windage tray and not rely on the drainbacks to do the job which he advised me they would not do properly without a tray involved. To make this clear this remark is in no way a cut to Ed who is always eager to help anyone with their builds for an engine that will perform it's best. That said I purchased a 3 valve tray from my dealership and it worked like a charm. Not only is it a full tray but with the way it bolts to the bottom of the ARP studs it could help the mains from doing any walking ( correct me here if I am wrong Ed ) It bolts in like most girdles I have seen but not as thick as the aluminum ones. Anyway this is just an FYI for anyone wanting to do this modification who is planning on running an aftermarket tray.



Can Do
 

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So when I had my engine built I decided to use Livernois drainbacks so the oil would drain back along the side of the block like the Ford GT supercar block does and is internally cast for that. This is for anyone who is thinking about doing this and the problems incurred with windage tray fitment. I butchered up a nice Canton windage tray by attempting to cut out 1/2" holes in it so the drainbacks would slide over the drainback funnell and lay flush to the pan rail on the block. I weakened the tray by drilling the holes needed for fitment. I was going to skip the full length windage tray altogether but was prompted by Ed to run a windage tray and not rely on the drainbacks to do the job which he advised me they would not do properly without a tray involved. To make this clear this remark is in no way a cut to Ed who is always eager to help anyone with their builds for an engine that will perform it's best. That said I purchased a 3 valve tray from my dealership and it worked like a charm. Not only is it a full tray but with the way it bolts to the bottom of the ARP studs it could help the mains from doing any walking ( correct me here if I am wrong Ed ) It bolts in like most girdles I have seen but not as thick as the aluminum ones. Anyway this is just an FYI for anyone wanting to do this modification who is planning on running an aftermarket tray.



Can Do

The 3 valve tray is the way to go if you can find them. Ford quit producing them at some point so what is left in the dealership distribution channel is all that there is — good find. In as much as it is sheet metal you will find it is a good windage tray and an ineffective girdle. FWIW main bearing girdles come in and go out of popularity are expensive and do little if anything to mitigate or prevent main cap walk and the attendant abrading that occurs between the cap and the block.

ARP 2000 main studs, if they were available, would be a better choice but even then the caps still move around and abrade against the main webs — it's just the nature of the block casting design and the torque we ask the engine to produce. Adding a 10mm side bolt and ARP main studs will do more for you to mitigate some of the main cap fretting of the block.
 
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