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i'm going with a FAST standalone with LS coils and was looking for pictures on how folks have mounted the coils.

Thanks
 

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Turbo98, do you not have heat soak issues with them mounted there? I'm running BS3 and tried to mount them under my intake (sullivan) and it didn't work well after the car warmed up and I restarted it. I'm not sure if it was the electrical noise or just the heat but it didn't work at all except on cold startups. I had to line mine up against the firewall. I just cut a couple 1/2" square tubes for the front and back, drilled them out and then PC'd them. It's working really well but I wish I could've kept them under the intake.



 

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Turbo98, do you not have heat soak issues with them mounted there? I'm running BS3 and tried to mount them under my intake (sullivan) and it didn't work well after the car warmed up and I restarted it. I'm not sure if it was the electrical noise or just the heat but it didn't work at all except on cold startups. I had to line mine up against the firewall. I just cut a couple 1/2" square tubes for the front and back, drilled them out and then PC'd them. It's working really well but I wish I could've kept them under the intake.
I will find out as I will be running it soon. I don't expect any issues. The LS coils are typically mounted in hot locations under the hood so heat shouldn't be an issue. I had my old 4-tower factory coils under there with no problems. That is a weird issue you had. I can't imagine it was because of the heat. Do you still have the OEM ECU that is sharing the cam/crank? If so, try running separate wires from the cam sensor directly to the BS3. I'm not sure how the BS3 works but maybe it's already done this way.

Nice set-up BTW.
 

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I will find out as I will be running it soon. I don't expect any issues. The LS coils are typically mounted in hot locations under the hood so heat shouldn't be an issue. I had my old 4-tower factory coils under there with no problems. That is a weird issue you had. I can't imagine it was because of the heat. Do you still have the OEM ECU that is sharing the cam/crank? If so, try running separate wires from the cam sensor directly to the BS3. I'm not sure how the BS3 works but maybe it's already done this way.

Nice set-up BTW.
Yep BS3 uses the factory cam/crank sensors. I thought about running separate wires to the cam/crank sensors but at the time just wanted to keep it simple. I wasn't sure if it was the heat or just electrical noise causing interference with the wiring harness located under the intake. I've since occupied that space with a large t for the rear head cooling so I don't think I have the space needed without rerouting a few things. If I get bored with it again I may try it again. Good luck with it though and hopefully you'll have better luck than I did. And thanks you have a nice setup as well.
 

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Turbo98, do you not have heat soak issues with them mounted there? I'm running BS3 and tried to mount them under my intake (sullivan) and it didn't work well after the car warmed up and I restarted it. I'm not sure if it was the electrical noise or just the heat but it didn't work at all except on cold startups. I had to line mine up against the firewall. I just cut a couple 1/2" square tubes for the front and back, drilled them out and then PC'd them. It's working really well but I wish I could've kept them under the intake.



That looks great. Hope you don't mind if I copy the powdercoated reservoirs. I don't like the sheet metal look.
 

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I like the tuck job, keeps any GM from showing
 

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Well, the GM is definitely hidden when it's all said and done. If I ever need to re-mount them, I like how Just1981 did it:



Thanks.
 

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It can be done.First, you need to keep the Ford ECU happy, so you will need four MSD 8912 dual tach adapters, so the ECU thinks it's still driving the coils.The 8912 has outputs that normally trigger an MSD DIS-IV multi-channel CDI. Instead, you will need to invert each of the eight output signals to drive the LS2 coils.The inverters for each channel can be built with a couple of resistors and a small NPN transistor, such as PN2222.The collector of each transistor would connect to the LS2 coil trigger wire. It would also go to 12v through a 1k ohm resistor.The base of the transistor would connect to one of the tach adapter outputs, through a 10k resistor.The tach adapter outputs also need to be connected to 12v, through a 1k resistor.So, you have eight 1k resistors to 12v, one on each tach adapter output; eight more 1k resistors connected to 12v on each inverter output; and eight more 10k resistors, one to each transistor base.This comes from another post
 

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It can be done.First, you need to keep the Ford ECU happy, so you will need four MSD 8912 dual tach adapters, so the ECU thinks it's still driving the coils.The 8912 has outputs that normally trigger an MSD DIS-IV multi-channel CDI. Instead, you will need to invert each of the eight output signals to drive the LS2 coils.The inverters for each channel can be built with a couple of resistors and a small NPN transistor, such as PN2222.The collector of each transistor would connect to the LS2 coil trigger wire. It would also go to 12v through a 1k ohm resistor.The base of the transistor would connect to one of the tach adapter outputs, through a 10k resistor.The tach adapter outputs also need to be connected to 12v, through a 1k resistor.So, you have eight 1k resistors to 12v, one on each tach adapter output; eight more 1k resistors connected to 12v on each inverter output; and eight more 10k resistors, one to each transistor base.This comes from another post
Thanks Mike , That's a lot knowledge !
Something ill look into for sure.
 

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When switching to a stand alone do you have to run the LS coils? Is there a reason that stock 2V Mod Ford coils wouldn't work with a stand alone?
 

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I think the stock ford coils will work with select few standalone units how ever no one runs the stock units as the LS coils are way more powerful.
 
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