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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey Randy,yes it was an ABS car..I took all of it out and ran new lines..It was easy,just time consuming.

Tim
 

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I did the same it's not too bad I just ran new lines from the master cyl. to the ABS unit and replaced the ABS unit with a proportioning valve... This is a nice way to clean up the engine bay. Not to mention losing 30+ pounds...
 

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You can buy the plate from UPR for like $45 I think. They sell a kit too that has the plate and the master cyl. But the Master cyl. is a Napa cast iron POS!!! I bought a Wilwood Master cyl. for $100. Skinny Kid sells the kit for $189 with a Wilwood Master cyl.
 

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Yes, I switched to manual steering. That is what caused the switch to manual brakes. The power steering pump runs the power brakes, so if you want to eliminate the P/S you lost the power brakes...
 

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Don't count on getting the rack anytime soon. It's around $550 and it took six weeks to get mine. Flaming River is WAY behind...
 

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What about plugging off the stock rack instead of replacing it? I know this was something done by the 5.0 guys back in the day to save some cash. Turning is a little harder than with a true manual rack but it did work.

Bill
 

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I'm not running a belt at all. Electric WP 16v battery, and COG setup...
 

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you can run a 52" belt on it eliminating the power steering pump. It will reverse the water pump pulley rotation, and you can loop the steering rack lines.
 

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How does it reverse the waterpump? Doesn't the belt go from the alt, to the PS, then to the crank? so it would just cut out the ps and run the same? Randy S and I talked about this yesterday maybe we had the belt backwards... Oh well guess its another reason to run an electric WP.
 

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You should be able to go from the alt. to the wp using the backside of the belt and then around the crank, and straight over to the A/C delete. You won't get alot of crank pulley wrap, but if you're not turning a blower, it doesn't matter.
 
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