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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As most of you know, I have tried almost every clutch made for a Mustang at one time or another. The fact of the matter is if you try to take a high HP stick car and put it on slicks, you better have a clutch capable of handling the abuse. Now if you are running drag radials or drive like someones mom, you may be ok. The last time my clutch failed I was out to get the best money could buy and would settle for nothing second rate. All fingers pointed to Mcleod and there twin-disk setup. This clutch is designed for the guy who wants a clutch that is managable on the street and will last more than 100 miles. After talking to others and also asking Mcleod about their problems with the twin disk in the past, they assured me the clutch was redesigned and worked perfect. The exact words out of their mouth is that the clutch would not stick to the floor on high rpm cars like it had in the past. Well guess what mine did? That's right, it stuck to the floor on a 7000rpm shift and now the car will not hardly even go into gear. The clutch did hold, and never showed any signs of fatigue or slipping, but with it sticking to the floor it might has well had slipped or whatever. I am calling them today to explain what happened and see what they are willing to do.
 

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Chad,

Since you are looking for 7k dumps, you are going to have to give something up (streetability). I suggest you look at either a borg&beck or a long style pressure plate. Getting a diaphram plate to hold at 7-7500 is going to be damn near impossible. Especially at your hp level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Mike, thanks for the input bro!

I talked to Red at Mcleod today, and I think we have finally decided on what I need to have in my car. He agreed that the diaphram style would not hold up in my car. How or why the others at Mcleod sold me on this I do not know. I originally ordered a Bork and Beck with twin disk. That is another story all together. What Red suggested was one of two things. He said I needed a Borg and Beck setup period. The question I have to answer is which disk. He said I can run a sintered Iron disk (no street use) or some sort of Iron disk (weekend street use only) the later of the two requiring a good bit more pressure from the pressure plate than the sintered Iron. I am leaning more toward the second of the two so that I can still drive my car on the street when I feel the need. Even if it only lasts a couple hundred miles it will have outlasted the last 5 clutch setups I have been running.
Any thoughts?
 

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Stay away from the sintered iron for street use. It wears really fast on the street. If you want to do any class racing, you will be limited to the single disk set-up. None of the snctioning bodies are allowing the multiple disks. Unles you run an open comp format. Make sure to also order the adjustable throw-out bearing with the "wide-face" adaptor. The "wide-face" adaptor is a must on finger type plates. Also, when it comes time to order yourself a replacement disc, call James Hensler, he can get the disc's for about half the price of the McLeod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks Mike, I think I will try the Iron disk that Red was speaking of. Seems like it would be my best option. My twin disk will be comming out tommorow will be interesting to see what happened to it.
 

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96blkcobra said:
As most of you know, I have tried almost every clutch made for a Mustang at one time or another. The fact of the matter is if you try to take a high HP stick car and put it on slicks, you better have a clutch capable of handling the abuse. Now if you are running drag radials or drive like someones mom, you may be ok. The last time my clutch failed I was out to get the best money could buy and would settle for nothing second rate. All fingers pointed to Mcleod and there twin-disk setup. This clutch is designed for the guy who wants a clutch that is managable on the street and will last more than 100 miles. After talking to others and also asking Mcleod about their problems with the twin disk in the past, they assured me the clutch was redesigned and worked perfect. The exact words out of their mouth is that the clutch would not stick to the floor on high rpm cars like it had in the past. Well guess what mine did? That's right, it stuck to the floor on a 7000rpm shift and now the car will not hardly even go into gear. The clutch did hold, and never showed any signs of fatigue or slipping, but with it sticking to the floor it might has well had slipped or whatever. I am calling them today to explain what happened and see what they are willing to do.
Am I mistaken or did we not already have this discussion?? :rolleyes:

Ben
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes we have had this discussion many times I think. LOL At least when somebody ask me about a clutch, I can give an informed answer based on experience. hehe

Chad
 

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Ben, I guess those Southerners just don't listen to us "Smarter" northerners LOL....

/me slaps Chad with this full race 8" C4 converter LMAO


Focker, stop messing with a stick and get that C4!!!!!!!! lol



P.S. The F1R wouldn't hurt ya either :shootbird


Jeff
 

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This isn't great news... Red just told me last week that the Street Twin is what I need. I too want to use the car for weekend street use, not daily driving. I don't know about hitting 7500 RPM with the 2V but the power is definitely there with 600+ RWHP. Should I reconsider the Street Twin? It's not too late for me, my tranny is still being built.
 

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BlackCobra99Va said:
Ben, I guess those Southerners just don't listen to us "Smarter" northerners LOL....

/me slaps Chad with this full race 8" C4 converter LMAO

Focker, stop messing with a stick and get that C4!!!!!!!! lol

P.S. The F1R wouldn't hurt ya either :shootbird

Jeff
Jeff.... I know, I know.....he just won't listen.....lol I agree with everything u said cept the procharger...:shootbird

I will guarantee he will have he automatic before long!!!!!!

Ben
 

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I went through the same crap.I fought l;ike hell to keep a stick in the car.Ben and I emailed each other monthly talking about failed clutches.

I gave up and put a c4 in with a 8 inch convertor.You'll be there too..stop fighting it man,come on into the gutter with the rest of us retards.We all had really nice street cars at one time.:rolleyes:



Tim
 

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The Ubiquitous Jimmy V.
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Tim, I think you are right,,but Chad like myself just wants one 9sec pass and then keep the car Streetable..
You are going past where either Chad or i want to be..
Speaking for myself..My car is already past my Plan....

Best of Luck ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Jim Vaccaro said:
Tim, I think you are right,,but Chad like myself just wants one 9sec pass and then keep the car Streetable..
You are going past where either Chad or i want to be..
Speaking for myself..My car is already past my Plan....

Best of Luck ...
All of you guys going C4 just makes me want it that much more. As of right now, I am staying with the stick. Just ordered the ultimate setup I think, with a pricetag that would match that of a built C4. We will see how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well nothing new to report just yet, here is what $1600 from Mcleod will get you. I will be installing in the next day or so and report back.
 

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Chad McLeod of the Clan McLeod??? You tool...you need a t-45 that will solve all your problems!!! Chad please keep us updated as I will be in the same boat sometime in 2062 when I decide to finally build this stupid car. Maybe I can race in nostalgia racing series
 

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The Ubiquitous Jimmy V.
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Chad,, That Is a Manley Clutch!!
Best of luck with it!
 

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Boy, that set-up looks mighty familiar!:eek:

The first thing I will recommend is DO NOT START AT 8 TURNS AND WORK BACKWARDS!! YOU WILL BREAK YOUR TRANS!! Start somewhere around 3-4 turns. You will also need to learn clutch tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It is definately going to be a new experience, but I think it is going to work well. How do you get to your PP to adjust it? We have decided to make a removable access panel on the bottom of the bellhousing. Looks to me like it will be kind of hard to keep them all exactly the same. We will see how it does though. Thanks for the tip Mike, 4 it is!!!! I am glad you said that though, I was going to start at 10. Instructions say start at or near maximum, with maximum being ~13turns.
 
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