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2006 GT
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, Amigos...

I was a drag racer by birth (born into racing family) and I'm here to get advice on building a "decent" 4.6 3-valve for my 2006 GT...

Ive already had a good friend grindy cams for the build (conservative) and i may ask how to navigate around offshore Chinese parts for thd build.

Ive got 265,000 on this and i drive 400-600 miles into the nearby desert just for fun.

Sky Tire Automotive tail & brake light Wheel Vehicle


Currently running all stock with a performance tune and 4.30 gears, 31 spline. Great driving car.

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My focus will be on maintaining reliability on the new motor, not max HP output.

Thanks...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Reliability just stick to Ford parts and any grind of cam that works with the stock valve train (personally using Ford hot rod cams). Certainly upgrade to the high volume oil pump (avoid high pressure due to chance of blowing seals...) by melling. And poly bushings for rear upper and lower control arms. What transmission do you have? And is your main concern drag racing or just a daily that can drag race reliably? Anything above 4.10 gears I hope you have an auto so you can install a shift kit and 3200 rpm stall torque converter (additional cooling is a must for an auto and I would trash the stock thermostat and toss in a 170f)
Im running a TR3650 with 4.30 gears. Im using GT500 lower rear arms and a Steeda spherical upper bushing.

Thermostat is a 160°F so its always open and i use a tuner to set fan to on 185°F off at 178°F. Never sets a CEL.

I recently installed brand new catalytic converters. I have Stainless one chamber Flowmasters on it for fun. I have also done new hoses, including the ones under the intake, new radiator, new fan (all Motorcraft) a new fuel pump and control module (Motorcraft) brand new A/C condensor....new SP587X plugs

Tried several "Hot Air Intakes" and all had consistently higher IAT's than stock, so i went back to stock.

I have a few tunes that ive datalogged and tailored to the car with really good results.

Monday i installed brand new rotors with Perfect Stop Ceramic Pads and a brake fluid flush...

I also just bought new rear tires...


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you do go Amazon just do not buy cam phasers or the vct solenoids. I tried the solenoids and those suck... Clattering after 4k and wouldn't stop till I restarted the vehicle so I had to go Ford vct solenoids. I bought a set of roller rockers and lash adjusters from Amazon and they survive my 6500 rpm shifts. Plugs please either go motorcraft or iridium and your coils if you have not already, I would stick to a name brand like msd if you don't want motorcraft and I hear to stay away from accell. Injectors I would only run bigger if you specifically need too and cold air intake if you plan on going past 6500 rpm. And if you do get a cold air get the one that "needs a tune" in other words the one that has a bigger MAF and intake tube. Stock manifold is fine especially n/a and you won't be going past 7k rpm with your stock rotating assembly to take advantage of the Ford racing manifold and just loose tons of low end. You already did the best upgrade that you can do is go 4.10+ gears (in your case higher).
My goal is just a fun driver. My old cam grinder and i came up with a profile we want to try in the 3-Valve and its fairly mild with same lift as FRPP Hot Rods, right around .470"

I want to get a set of 2009, full-thread-spark-plug cylinder heads and have them bored for cam bearing inserts.

I'll likely get a good, used motor as a platform for my build.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I don't really need a stroker. Its just a fun daily. A buddy just spent big $$$$ for an Eagle crank & rods for his build and its Chinese!!! Rod big end dimensions were off. The Eagle supplier offered to replace the parts. I'll probably use stock rods with new Ford bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah. I was just thinking while you were in there. You might even get away with the 4v stock forged rods or look into what people have done to get coyote rods and even the crank (for ever so slightly extra compression). Just something to think about especially since you are going in that deep. And with a stroker kit at the very least you can get back your low end that you do loose with a slightly more aggressive cam. Stock rods in our 3v only will probably handle up to 7200 rpm once and rpm is what you want for a n/a build.
Good advice, Man!!!

I got my rev limiters set to 6300 IIRC.

My concept on the cam is go mild...around .472"/.472" (same ass FRPP Hot Rods) but with 220°/226° @ .050" on a 111.5° LSA. Should have good vaccum and throttle response.

I wouldn't mind a stroker kit if i could get a quality USA kit...
 
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