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Milidon steel pan

674 Views 12 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  mercenvy_3114
Hey Ed-- I have a Milidon steel pan that I believe has a 7 qt capacity -- am I able to use the stock dipstick? Thanks in advance for your answer
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There is no way to tell without actually filling the pan before you put it on the engine.

If the pan has a windage tray the oil should come up to but not touch the tray. Measure how many quarts it takes to get to this point. After the pan is emptied and put on the engine put that much oil back in the pan. Put the dipstick in look at where the oil level comes to on the stick and mark that as full.

If the pan does not have a windage tray you should make or buy one. If you don't want to make or buy a windage tray, you should get a new pan.
The Livernois drain backs do not perform the same function as a windage tray. You need a full length windage tray.
A 1/4" is fine, you could even go a bit closer if you have a small sump. All you are attempting to do is determine the volume of oil needed to get to that level so you know how much to put in when everything is assembled. Remember it takes a quart to fill the filter, add another pint or so to fill the remote oil filter lines, add about 3/4 quart for wetting the engine, and a quart or so of oil for the oil in suspension and being whipped up by the rotating assembly. Assuming a six-quart sump that comes to a total of 8 1/4 quarts of oil. You could safely round down to 8 qts.

I highly recommend an oil accumulator. Canton offers the original Accusump version and Moroso has an equally attractive offering they surprisingly call an Oil Accumulator. Don't use a wimpy 1 or 2-quart one, get the 3-quart one. The 3-quart one actually holds less than 2 quarts.

The big deal with the accumulators is twofold. The obvious first benefit is if your pickup is uncovered during acceleration, braking or turning the accumulator jumps in and supplies oil instead of air to the engine's oiling system. The not-so-obvious benefit is cold starts. Our cams get oiled last in the pecking order of oil deliveries. That means, if you didn't modify your primary (not secondary but primary) chain tensioners then the #1 cam journal on the front of each head gets the oil pinched out of it when the engine is shut off.

Later when you start the engine you have a cam-to-head contact patch that will scuff progressively more and more. One day the scuffing will be enough to seize the cam in the head and you will break a timing chain or chains along with a good number of other parts. The oil accumulator will prevent this by flooding the engine oil galleys with oil when you turn the ignition key and before the engine starts.

If you have the time, build your own pan that looks something like this;
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Design it to clear or clearance K-member areas where it might interfere. There is a trap doored baffle in the middle of the pan that slams shut on braking and swings open on acceleration. The swinging pickup follows the oil as it goes from front to back and when I make a hard right turn and uncover the pickup the oil accumulator steps in to save the engine.
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It is patterned after an old drag race pan I used about 50 years ago, Tom. The addition of the oil accumulator provides cold start protection for the engine's top end and starvation control in sweeping right-hand turns. In addition, the primary chain tensioner mods and the oil accumulator are important for protecting the frontmost cam journals in the heads.

You can find the write-up on the primary chain tensioner modification in the TToC engine section about 2/3 of the way down just before the crank tech stuff. I highly recommend the modification.
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The 2V engines use the same chains and as far as I can tell the same tensioner. The easy way to verify is to go to an auto parts website look up both tensioners and compare part numbers.

The mod is definitely worth doing! Without the mod, the little ratcheting arms will settle in a locked condition, in the extended position keeping tension on the primary chain and pulling the camshaft down tight against the lower half of the front cam bearing. This will pinch off the oil film and you already know the rest of the story from my earlier post above.

Unless you used green Loctite® the bolts will be removable. The correct Loctite® to use in aluminum is Blue Loctite®. Better yet buy metric set screws that are long enough to bottom in the block holes (use blue Loctite®) and also accommodate a washer and nut so you are tightening and loosening steel against steel threads and not steel against aluminum.
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You want to stay away from engine and all automotive machine shops when you are shopping for this type of part, Tom. Go to a commercial job shop, machine shop that does not do automotive work. That I am aware of there are no sources for those custom pieces. You either need to make them yourself or have a job shop make them for you.
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