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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
-- Tried to eliminate a windage tray altogether by installing Livernois drainbacks so the oil would return just like a Ford Gt block- hopefully that eliminates any oil roping. I do have a 3 valve composite windage tray that I could use just to mock everything up to get my full mark. As always you are the man for getting a job done right---- Thanks Ed


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey Ed- so on further investigation of this pan it turns out to be a modified ford f 150 truck pan F55E-6694-AA that has had a deep sump welded into it. Someone ran a turbo with this unit because it has a bung for an oil return at the top under the damper and two other plugs near the bottom on the left and right sides of the sump. The job is done so well that I really thought from first glance that this was an aftermarket pan. Anyway I will take your advice and install the 3 valve composite tray (4R3Z 6687 BA) in my 4v and just cut the tray around the drain backs so they slide thru. Above you mentioned to fill the pan up but not to touch the tray. Is it ok to leave it an 1/8 to 1/4 inch below the tray or do you have some other measurement in mind? This is on an aluminum teskid big bore stroked with a 3.75 forged crank so I will have to spin the engine by hand to see if that composite tray clears everything. If not I will be getting another aftermarket tray. Thanks again Ed


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the great info Ed-- I will be looking into that accusump to save the heads. I read the article here to modify the primary tensioners a few years ago and that mod slipped my mind. That pan is gorgeous--it is an awesome road rally piece. This is the first pan that I have seen where the windage tray attaches to itself instead of the engine or being wedged between the block and pan. Very sweet piece with a lot of oil control built in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It's a shame I already started to dress the front of the engine. I put the damper on already too and it's an ATI super damper like you had suggested in a previous discussion. Mine is a 6 rib pulley since I'm N/A but I probably will spray it now and then.

Is it a smart move to remove it and go back into the cover to do this tensioner mod since I have already locktited the assembly bolts for the damper. Don't know that it will come apart without stripping the head of the star bolts. Any suggestions here would be welcome. Are the 2V tensioners the same as the 4V? I know the primary chains are the same but I'm sketchy on the tensioners and since I have a few sets of those I could set up a left and a right before I even tear everything back down ..
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey Ed--
After some investigation into the tensioners the 2v and 4v are the same along with the primary chains and the cam gears also. I have stripped the parts and damper off from the front cover. Do you know of a source for the 0.200 shims? Florida is really short when it comes to engine machine shops. I called the one in Venice and his equipment is too big to make a shim that small. Any help here would be appreciated. Thanks again Ed-------
 
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