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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Need tips for the MM IRS bushing install

I am planning on doing the MM IRS bushings. I read some posts awhile back that a couple of you have done the install and they work.

This wheel hop $h!t kills me....even though I don't spin the tires very often. However...I may start once the wheel hop is gone.:D

Any tips to make the install easier would be greatly appreciated.

Did anyone find the kit for less than MM advertises it for ($49.95).?
 

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From SVTPerformance.com

Wheel Hop is GONE with MM IRS Bushings!!!!

Install is a pain in the ass but boy is it sweet when complete. I definitely learned some important things that could make the install a snap for someone else. Anyone attempting this- I can’t stress how important it is to get the bushing shells completely void of any remnants from the old stock bushings and to get the new bushings seated all the way into the casings. I used a 6” C-Clamp to press the new bushings into the casings. The problem is that the bushings are about ¼” longer than the length of the casing so once the c-clamp was flush with the edge of the bushing/casing, I knew I needed something. After 5 hours or so of trying to pry the damn bushing into the frame, I sent one of my buddies to Sears to pick up a bunch of large sockets. I used a 2” socket to gain leverage against the edge of the casing and continued using the C-clamp. The 2” socket allowed the bushing to slip inside of it for that last ¼” that is oh so necessary. Anyone attempting this, let me know and I’ll share any tips that I gathered along the way. Parts are cheap ~$40 but the install is tough. Results are amazing. Kudos to Maximum for a great product. - Posted By bborder

MM IRS Bushings Install

I just finished installing the Maximum Motorsports IRS Suspension Bushings. It took me around 6 hours to complete. The kit comes with 4 bushings, 4 crush tubes, and 2 packets of grease. The directions are very well written and documented, but I think some stuff changed on the 03 which makes it a little different to install. I highly recommend anybody thinking about doing this go out a buy a bit like the rotozip that can cut sideways this would have saved me at least an hour and a lot of pain. I had a 95 Cobra and did the walking the drill bit around the shell to release the bushing and it was easy; on these bushings it is impossible. I would like to know the durometer of the factory bushings as they are very soft and elastic which makes removing them a pain. In the directions it says to lower the rear replace the bushings then lower the front and the do those. On the 03 at least mine I could not pull the IRS down far enough with only the rear released to perform this action. I actually had to lower both to get access to both. I also didn’t need or use the additional jack stands they noted. With only the chassis support the shocks supported the IRS unit. To remove the bushings I drilled a series of holes in each bushing until I compromised it enough to pull the core out, this process was hell on my drills my DeWalt corded drill was so hot after the second one I had to throw it in the freezer for 10 minutes to cool it down, it actually loss substantial power due to how hot it was this is the first time I ever saw that happen. I then used a 1 ¾” wood bit to remove the material in the shell. And finished it up removing all remaining material left in the shell with a wire wheel. Using this process the front two bushings were easy. My problems started with the back two which are to close to the rear brakes which made drilling holes in the rubber hard and the use of the wood bit impossible so I just had to work around it and use the wire wheel to remove all the material. I could have removed the brakes, but didn’t feel like adding to the tasks. Next step was putting the IRS back up and aligning it this is where 3 hours of my time was spent. First I had a problem getting the IRS to go up into the torque boxes as the new bushings are slightly larger then the old ones, if you look at the picture you will see the lip the factory bushing don’t have this and actually appear to float in the boxes. I basically ended lifting the car up with the jack under the lower IRS brace and pushing the car down to get it to slide in. I slide the bolts into the lower mounts and then did the upper mounts adjusting them so the bolts were in the exact same location as stock. My last major problem which took almost 1.5 hours was the passenger lower bolt was slightly stripped and I couldn’t get the nut to go on so I decided to pull it out and replace it with one of the upper ones since I am getting new button head bolts for there next week anyways. Getting that lower back in with the rest of the assembly connected was a PIA because the fronts without the bolt in the want to center approx ¼” behind the hole in the torque boxes. I finally finished at 1:00am and took my car out for a ride. It definitely feels firmer and has no noticeable increase in road noise. I will return with a more complete review after a couple days with it. Yesterday I replaced the front sway bar and end link bushings and tonight noticed the car feels flatter in turns now. - Posted by toofast4u
 

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I'm having someone put them in for me. I was gonna try to do it on my own, but i will pass on this one.,.lol,. I will prob have to pay like$175 to get them installed, do to the fact its not a 1,2,3 job. But should be well worth it.

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'll be doing the install myself.

I was just wondering if anyone found the kit for less than what MM advertises it for.
 

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I bought everything from Maximum directly as they have had some problems with people fraudulently duplicating there stuff.

But, I have had them on my car for some time now and they are definitely worth the money and are one of the best bangs for the buck out there. I now have there entire Maximum Grip kit on my car short of the k-member which I am not going to do yet and the car handles amazingly better then stock. When I was stock I could hop my F1s and spin them at 60 mph. After the bushings there was no hop and spinning was dramatically more difficult. After entire suspension and 315 555R I only can chirp power-shifting 2nd.

The difference could best be explained as going from my 95 Cobra to my 03 Stock was great. Going from my 03 Stock to now is amazing. It doesn't handle like a Mustang anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have a lot of experience with MM products over the last 7-8 years. They have both excellent product and customer service. Now that they have a dealer base selling for them I was just wondering if the dealers sell cheaper. You know how it works...the parent company starts to get so big they recruit dealers to sell for them, then sell to the dealers cheap enough so they can undercut the parent company, customer then buys from the dealers instead removing the sales burden from the parent company allowing them to concentrate on product design, development and production.....that's why I was wondering if anyone was able to buy the MM kit cheaper from someone else (one of their dealers).

Thanks for all of the information......I am ordering Today. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
$49.95.......plus $8.74 ground shipping to the east coast.....to be exact.

Ordered mine yesterday.

This is one of those mods I just can't wait to have finished to see the results.......but am not looking forward to the install at all.
 

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so if I were to get the bushings and take them to the guy who's doing all the install / bolt on work for my car... what's a reasonable number of hours I can expect him to bill me?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
My1stFord said:
so if I were to get the bushings and take them to the guy who's doing all the install / bolt on work for my car... what's a reasonable number of hours I can expect him to bill me?
I saw a post on SVT Performance that a shop agreed to a 4 hour install charge.....but ended up having over 5 hours in the job. From posts I have seen on different sights this install can be a PITA. I think alot of that depends on the installers ability along with having the proper resources (tools, lift, patience, creativity, etc. )

Depending on where you get the install done I would expect a charge of $175-$225 not including parts.
 

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trmn8r said:
I saw a post on SVT Performance that a shop agreed to a 4 hour install charge.....but ended up having over 5 hours in the job. From posts I have seen on different sights this install can be a PITA. I think alot of that depends on the installers ability along with having the proper resources (tools, lift, patience, creativity, etc. )

Depending on where you get the install done I would expect a charge of $175-$225 not including parts.
cool, tks
 

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My1stFord said:
so if I were to get the bushings and take them to the guy who's doing all the install / bolt on work for my car... what's a reasonable number of hours I can expect him to bill me?
If they have installed it before and have worked out the little bugs that you can run into it should take about 3~4 hours. My install as noted was longer but it was due to a first time event. There are shops in Houston that can do it in the time listed above.
This is a must install for our cars if you want to really bring the wheel hop and cradle flexing issues under control. I would also do the differential bushings and rear steer kit while you are at it. The next step would be '00R springs/shocks or coil-overs. The bushings, rear steer kit, and MM 650lb coil-overs along with the '00R shocks will eliminate 95% plus of the wheel hop issues with decent tires.
 

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Bingo13 said:
If they have installed it before and have worked out the little bugs that you can run into it should take about 3~4 hours. My install as noted was longer but it was due to a first time event. There are shops in Houston that can do it in the time listed above.
This is a must install for our cars if you want to really bring the wheel hop and cradle flexing issues under control. I would also do the differential bushings and rear steer kit while you are at it. The next step would be '00R springs/shocks or coil-overs. The bushings, rear steer kit, and MM 650lb coil-overs along with the '00R shocks will eliminate 95% plus of the wheel hop issues with decent tires.
Bingo13 as you know this is exactly what I have on my rear the IRS bushings, 00R shocks and 650# coil-over and with the F1s I had a slight skip, it wasn't violent like the hop is, it was actually just the tires losing traction and slipping. I now have Nitto 555R in 315 and I can't spin them from a roll once they are warm if I had to. Even droping the clutch powershifting 2nd only produces a chirp. The traction difference is amazing.

Bingo what came of your front strut situation?
 

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toofast4u said:

Bingo what came of your front strut situation?
We ended up installing the newer Bilstein Sports yesterday with 350lb coil-overs. I like the combination better than the 425/'00r struts(at least in my initial driving last night). It is dry today so I will see how they handle near the limit. I can always go back to the 425lb springs but I will keep the struts.
 
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