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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a chance to get this block at a great price.
The description says NA but my understanding is that the knock sensors beign removed it the only difference between NA and SC.
My current stocker is running great unlike the driver so this is a just in case situation.

Your thoughts and input are greatly appreciated!!

Ford Racing Performance Parts
 

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How good a deal are you talking about? It's my understanding the Teksid is a stronger block than the Aluminators, so if you can find a clean bore teksid for less, there's your answer...
 

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from my research on the aluminators, the front cover area on n/a version sounds like they might be machined for the mach1 engine dress, and the supercharged version is machined for the cobra front engine dress. but it seems like it might be something that can be worked around fairly easily.

best of luck with it!
 

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teksid block +2 send to MP to make it 304 cubes, with all the fix'ns. after all a heat treated (cycled) block is a better block to start with.
 

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You can pick up Teksid blocks out of junk Mark VIIIs all day long for $300.
+1, I used a Mark VIII rear end housing for my IRS build. Total cost for the used housing complete to the cover was $100 on Craigslist, of course I loaded it with Cobra spec. internals. The same owner had 3 Teksid long blocks sitting there in the $300 range.

Rick, check out craigslist using the searchtempest.com search engine.
 

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Would that block be considered the WAP block used in the 99 and 01 cobras? I know the teksids are a far better block if that is the case and cheaper...$100-$300 dollar range. I have read 700hp is about all you want to put through the 99,01 block but have no first hand experience.
 

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rick i have my teksid block in the machine shop right now, sold my shortblock and putting together a new shortblock with JE flat tops, manley rods with arp 2000 bolts and a bridge racing prepped crank, find a good teksid and swap the internals over
 

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Not that block because no matter what you'll still be in my rear view mirror. So wait for one you actually have a chance of keeping up rofl.
 

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Rick,

I built my engine entirely from pieces. I didn't have a Terminator to use as a starting point. When I did it the Teksids were the preeminent choice for OEM race blocks. After doing a lot of research and reading about having to fill the lower water jackets with epoxy to stiffen the lower block and seeing some of the work Hyland and Mihovitz (apparently) did to help cooling for the rear most cylinders I elected to go with an aftermarket Hyland block.

Today we have Aluminators and BOSS 5.0 block availability. When I did mine we did not. If I had to do it again I would use an Aluminator block if I was going aluminum and a BOSS 5.0 if I was going for max durability and HP. I have spent considerable time talking to Ford engineers about those two blocks and the unmistakable message I took away was that both the blocks represent essentially 15 years of engineering development and engineering change orders to improve the block structure. The Aluminator block is probably at least as strong if not stronger than a Teksid and it is current production which means OEM parts availability. Beyond strength there have been both oiling and cooling enhancements to the basic design. My choice Teksid vs Aluminator would be Aluminator.

The BOSS 5.0 block gave us an OEM block with a 3.700 bore for the first time that could be supercharged. It was also made with the latest foundry casting technology and the densest, toughest cast iron available for casting blocks today. It is decidedly stronger than any current production aluminum block and again comes with the most recent engineering design enhancements including yet another block cooling upgrade and the most robust main webs and main caps ever offered on an OEM version of the block. This block is a very tough customer but slightly more expensive than an Aluminator. My choice Teksid vs BOSS 5.0 would be BOSS 5.0.

If money were an issue I would use a Teksid. They are very robust but I think no stronger than the most recent generations of FRPP Aluminaotr and BOSS 5.0 blocks. They are potentially weaker and certainly lacking the 15 years of design improvements based on real world experience with the engine that the newer generation Aluminator and BOSS 5.0 blocks reflect.

A Teksid has five pounds more aluminum in it than an early generation WAP block (85 vs 80 lbs). Five pounds of aluminum is a significant amount of aluminum and also significant additional of strength if used wisely. Teksid did and for that reason, the Teksid is a no brainer over a traditional WAP block. The Aluminator is a different story. It is as heavy as the Teksid (and then some) and Ford put all the strength into those areas that had demonstrated in service failures. The Aluminator block is probably the finest, strongest aluminum OEM 4.6L ModMotor block you can buy today.

If money were not an issue I would use one of the Hyland aftermarket 4.6 blocks. By way of comparison (remember the Teksid had 5 lbs more aluminum than a WAP), the Hland block has 25 lbs more aluminum, much thicker and stronger cylinder liners, billet steel main caps 10MM center and outer main cap studs and the widest main webs currently fit between the crank counterweights. It comes at a price however. The basic block is/was $5,500 (I haven't priced it recently) then you will add about another $1,000 in machine work to get it to your specs. I know, because that is the block I have. If I were to do it all over again today I would go with an Aluminator if I was looking for the weight reduction or the BOSS 5.0 if I was after max power and max reliability.

A builder's final block selection is part specifications, part intended usage and a very big part personal preferance. I suspect it will end up very similar for you. One thing to keep in mind is the fact that Ford is increasingly emphasizing the Coyote as their "corporate" performance platform because it is tied to the sale of new cars. As such we will begin to see the traditional ModMotor components begin to fade from existence on the FRPP parts list. Heads, intake manifolds, cranks and a myriad of other pieces have already disappeared. That's the bad news. The good news is the aftermarket is stepping in to fill the gap but their pricing is not the attractive FRPP pricing we have come to take for granted soooo ... If you can get a good deal on some significant components like blocks, cranks, or heads it might be in your best interests to do it sooner rather than later - unless cost is not an issue.

Ed
 
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