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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well, busted out my pi swap this weekend past, went pretty smooth, didnt really run into any bad hiccups besides the power steering pump being a total b*tch!

my swap was PI heads, Comp xe274h cams and PI intake.

when i degree'd the cams in, i set thtem back (retarded) 3 degrees from straight up, turned the crank by hand 4-5 times and had no issues with resistance, so i called it good and buttoned everything up.

went for initial startup, primed the fuel system 3 times, and it cranked right up like it was never even apart. it held oil pressure, and water temp like a champ. went to drive it for like 5 miles around town, and it drives fine, no wanting to stall, no hesitation, no nothing. come back in the garage and get out, I hear a little ticking/chatter noise coming from the front of the motor. so i call my bud who is a mechanic for a living, then bring it to him, he thinks, and I do too, thats its just the valvetrain getting settled it. drove it for 50 or so highway miles at the speed limit and going easy off lights, and it quieted down a bit after that. it got cold sitting outside work, and now the chatter is back.

if I had ptv issues, i would have a dead cylinder and it would feel like it was limping right? did any of you guys that swapped have any noises during break in? Any help to repair my nerves from thinking that my motor is shot would help. any info is appreciated.

thanks.

its a 98 gt, auto, 121k miles, and bolts ons.
 

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Mine did the same thing when I did a PI swap and added aftermarket cams. Your valvetrain won't be as quiet as it was when stock now that you have aftermarket cams. I installed new lash adjusters and followers and I still have the problem. I've had a couple of REPUTABLE speed shops tell me the same thing as I just said. I wouldn't really worry unless it gets worse.
 

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yeah me too, lots of ticking either from injectors or just valvetrain, its been 12 000 miles now and still pulling. ive just gotten used to the extra noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
it sounds like this, just not as loud, if your in car, you have to turn the radio off and roll the window down to hear it, and then you can just barely.

if anyone has had this and fixed or pinpointed this, please chime in and help.

 

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Is it doing it under load........try poping the hood and raise the idle up a bit....it should smooth out without any loud noises.......with cams...our 2V's are noisey as hell and sound like old sewing machines.......lol.......you should be fine....if you are worried...just do a Compression test and ensure all cylenders and both banks match.........my car sounds like a ticking time bomb when I pop the hood...lol.....but she runs damn good.......as long as the noise isn't getting louder with RPM's you are good....hope this helps....

"ED"
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
when you give it gas from idle in park, or under load when driving, it doesnt get louder, just faster with engine speed, and you cant really hear it when it revs higher.

i havnt been to WOT yet, still in the break in stage. ill do a compression test tommorow when it quits raining and post up what i get.

if alls well with compression, then after break in, ill just give it hell and see what it does.

compression psi with a pi swap should be around 180 right?
 

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Is it doing it under load........try poping the hood and raise the idle up a bit....it should smooth out without any loud noises.......with cams...our 2V's are noisey as hell and sound like old sewing machines.......lol.......you should be fine....if you are worried...just do a Compression test and ensure all cylenders and both banks match.........my car sounds like a ticking time bomb when I pop the hood...lol.....but she runs damn good.......as long as the noise isn't getting louder with RPM's you are good....hope this helps....

"ED"
My big bore 2V is having issues that I think we've narrowed down to timing. On a compression test the passenger bank is consistently down from the driver bank between 5 - 10 psi. I know there's going to be some difference from hole to hole but this is just too weird to have the consistent difference from bank to bank on a brand new build. I gotta tear it back down to the point we can re-degree the timing set. Your description of an old sewing machine is dead on... it's a noisy s.o.b. but mine sounds exactly as you describe yours.

glittle75 - I'll have to look it up but I think my psi was around 190 on my headswap. I was in Columbia, SC at the time which I think is pretty close to sea level... that number is going to vary with altitude.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
blue stang gt. did you get on yours yet? like WOT and see what it did? if so did the sound seem to get louder or quiet down? when i raise rpms it doesnt get louder at all, just keeps in time with the engine speed. if anything it seems to get quieter, thats what is making me think nothing is horribly wrong, just a little off.
 

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Is it doing it under load........try poping the hood and raise the idle up a bit....it should smooth out without any loud noises.......with cams...our 2V's are noisey as hell and sound like old sewing machines.......lol.......you should be fine....if you are worried...just do a Compression test and ensure all cylenders and both banks match.........my car sounds like a ticking time bomb when I pop the hood...lol.....but she runs damn good.......as long as the noise isn't getting louder with RPM's you are good....hope this helps....

"ED"
blue stang gt. did you get on yours yet? like WOT and see what it did? if so did the sound seem to get louder or quiet down? when i raise rpms it doesnt get louder at all, just keeps in time with the engine speed. if anything it seems to get quieter, thats what is making me think nothing is horribly wrong, just a little off.
It just changes tempo with engine speed, doesn't get louder.
 

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I had a friend do this and after 500 miles the ticking we learned was a cracked valve guide from PTV. We learned it I say because the guide after cracking finally fractured grenade style and took out the rest of the engine.

Those are big cams for stock valves, you can get aftermarket valves without the lip that give quite a bit more clearance.
 

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a compression check would show a cracked valve guide and the ptv issues right?
It should I would think though many people have driven for thousands of miles with mild intake PTV on all 8 valves. All 8 being slightly bent would all read low I imagine.
 
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