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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I pulled the blown motor this weekend and got apart. I noticed the piston on the drivers side sustained most of the damage, is there any reason for this? And now the destruction...

hole in the block

Remains in the oil pan

heres the pistons, the top left is the front driverside and then the second and so on, the bottom left is the front passenger piston.

this is the piston that was destroyed still in the block

this rod twisted, the front piston on the passenger side.


My mom help for 30 seconds and this is what happens


and heres the "garage"

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was running through the gears, got in 3rd around 4000rpm and I heard clanking and what not and that was it. Put it in neutral and coasted to a stop. Dunno the AFR, but it was between 30-40 degrees that night and I made about 420 in august when it was 80 or so. The pistons all all fine on the top so far as i can tell it was just too much for the rods to handle, i didnt notice any signs of detenation.
 

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from what i can see it looks like the rod let go, piston got tons of thrust on it destroying the skirt as well as getting smacked a few times with the part of the rod that was still spinning on the crank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Prolly took around 15 hours or so, we were taking our time. It was a learning process too, first time for all of us.

Mikey, I was thinking the same thing. Im glad it was too much power and not the tune! I pretty much assumed it but just wanted to know for sure.

Anyone know why the driverside took most of the abuse?
 

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My engine did the same thing, Made 420ish when it was 80 out and at 2800ft alt. When mine went it was in third gear around 5100 with a temp in the 20s and 280ft alt. I bent two rods

Both rods damaged on mine were on the drivers side aswell. the passenger side was fine. Kinda strange i thought as well on mine and now yours duplicated mine. must be an issue on that side when you make to much power which doesnt make sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Mine is at the shop now. Should be done in 2-3 weeks. Then I have break-in period. So it will be a month or so before I am ready.
30 minutes of some normal driving and youll be all set. I know this is highly debated but i studied engine in college and the only part that actually breaks in and wears in the piston rings which get filed on the honed to the shape of the cylinder, once thats dont there not more metal to metal wearing in the motor.
 

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30 minutes of some normal driving and youll be all set. I know this is highly debated but i studied engine in college and the only part that actually breaks in and wears in the piston rings which get filed on the honed to the shape of the cylinder, once thats dont there not more metal to metal wearing in the motor.
I am not going to put alot of break in miles on the motor. I'll break it in for a bit, but Im not going to be driving around for 500-1000 miles. I'll take it easy til it warms up, beat on it a bit, and then take it easy for a while. My builder has a pretty good way of breaking them in, and has never had a failure yet. He built my buddy's GT a while back, and I am going to break mine in the exact way, and his car runs its ASS off.

:dunno2:I cant wait. He is sending pictures shortly. Then I will update my thread.
 

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I suffered a melt down similar. Except I couldn't find find 3 pistons and rods. I had a whole cylinder collapse as well.

Must of felt good when it came apart. I know mine uncorked pretty good.
 

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Im planing to have it rebuilt sometime in april so Ill be ready just in time for the nice weather.
there isnt much that would be good to use on your engine. probably best in the long run to just buy a built shortblock. or another used PI longblock.
you'll have to check straightness of the crank, make sure anything you're re-using is not cracked or mis-shaped in any way. to save the hassle and the possiblity of something going wrong in the future i would recomment buying a forged shortblock. for a few grand its worth it.

and for break in the best way to break and engine in, is on a dyno. period.
but for driving on the street. get it to operating temperature and try not to hold it at any set rpm for too long of a period. when i did my bottom end i drove it relatively nice for about 300kms before bringing it full bore to 6000.
 

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\and for break in the best way to break and engine in, is on a dyno. period.
but for driving on the street. get it to operating temperature and try not to hold it at any set rpm for too long of a period. when i did my bottom end i drove it relatively nice for about 300kms before bringing it full bore to 6000.
These motor's don't have flat tappet cams. There is no break in other then seating the valves and rings. The valves pound in after a 1000 miles or so if you have new valves and the rings should seal within a few mins normally. The valves will usually seat before then. But I've seen a few not seat for whatever reason till a bit after that. Seeing nobody laps valves in anymore. They claim it hurts flow. So it's better to let the valve pound into the seat.

The break in period is more to see if anything is wrong. Or to break a semi metallic clutch in etc..

Holding a motor with a roller cam at different RPM's and all that doesn't do a thing. It makes not difference really to the rings.
 
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