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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Do any of you guys go over to Stangnet?? Bill (Mustang92), has compiled a list of Best ET's for 4.6 stangs. In my category, I am 3rd on the list, however the guy that is in the 1st spot sold his car, so I really don't count him.

Anyways, what's the quickest you guys have seen a naturally aspirated, bolt-on only, non-PI, 96-98 GT run in the 1/4??

I hope (as soon as I get my T-lok fixed) to be running a solid 13.50, by the time it gets heated back up around here. Do you guys think it's possible for a car like mine to run that time??
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
HP mods:
March (piggy-back) pulleys
K&N filter w/o silencer
Mac off-road H pipe

Driveline:
FRPP 3.73
Nitto 275/40/17 drag radials (now I have BFG 16" DR's)

Suspension:
HPM Megabite Sr uppers (the ones with steel spherical bushings)
HPM Megabite Jr lowers (mounted on the top hole)
HPM frame connectors
Eibach 87-93 vert lowering springs (dropped the car 1 1/4")
Steeda rear adj sway bar
Tockico premium shocks and struts

Really, it's not much at all. There are so many more mods I can do, I just want a 13.50 flat, and I don't care at what mph. :)
 

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No offense but I dont think you can hit 13.5 at that mph without actual drag slicks. As for that chart I am like 51 out of 98. BTW I am still on my stock tires and if everyone on the list drag raced at the same strip That would read alot different. I wish I was at a good track instead of this crappy track in Nebraska at 1200ft above sealevel.:mad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The mods I have in mind will add hp and trq.

I plan on still reducing some weight, relocating my battery, 99+ PI cams (last resort mod), maybe a 70mm TB, skinnies, and if need be drag slicks.

The fastest time I've seen on record is a 13.62, if I beat that, I'll be happy. I think it can be done on these crappy stock heads. :D
 

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You will definetly see 13.5 with the mods you are talking about adding. I will agree. With the setup you have now you will not see 13.5, imho. I would say ditch the 3.73 and go with 4.10 or higher. Goodluck.


Brandon
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Oh, I also meant to say a timing adjuster, or some type of way to adjust timing. Also, longtubes, and finally I plan on getting a cat-back, sometime in the next century.

BTW, thanks for the replies, at least you guys understand my goals a little better than some sites. :)
 

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The best I ever went in mine before the new motor was a [email protected] I say if you do some weight reduction , put slicks on, and maybe the long tubes and PI cams you should be a solid 13.50 with some driving. It is a good goal to set but look at your mods as stuff that can transfer over to the headswap once you do it cause you know you want you will want and go fastert sooner or later.

Keep it N/A though;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
98N2OGT said:

Keep it N/A though;)
What's a poweradder?? hehe ;)

Seriously, I plan on keeping it N/A, and when I can afford to I want to get FRPP heads, intake, etc, and hog them out. Or I could go a cheaper but less traveled road of having the stock heads re-valved, cleaned, p&p'd, and see just how much I can get out of the stock heads. If I did that though, I would get the FRPP intake, and PI-cams to maximize the combo, if there is such a thing. ;)
 

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I would just get a set of PI heads and have them worked over really well. Look at the fastest 2VNA car out there right now and see what heads he is running. He is running PI heads P&P by Fox Lake. That way you save money and get great performance #s. Just my .02$.


Brandon
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Your talking about John Edwards right?? I didn't know he was running PI heads?? No fuggin way, that's cool though.

Okay, so I guess the extra money spent on FRPP heads could be better spent on PI heads worked the fugg over, what about an intake??
 

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Yeah John is running PI heads which you can find used for like $400+ compared to $1600 for FRPP heads. That leaves ya like $1200 for P&P work valves, and springs. I mean there isn't a huge power advantage that has been proven between the heads. I am running PI heads and having great results with them w/ stock cams at that. To each there own I suppose.
 

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He runs a SVO intake that is being reworked to fix a airflow issue he was having.

I run the Bullit intake for now may check into sheetmetal sometime next year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It's a sad day guys, I just found out that there is a guy who is .33 quicker than I am, but he has extensively more mods than I do. This is still a bolt-on only, N/A, non-PI 96-98 GT.

His screen name is Joel 98 GT, and he's on Mustangworld and Corral. His best time is a 13.55 @ 98.xx, with a 1.77 60', fuggin awesome.

My goal still stands at the 13.50 mark though.
 

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Ok you really wanna do a bolt on 98 and go fast here ya go a list of bolt ons and suggestions of which in theroy should get you there.

-Long tubes w/ off road x pipe w/ bullet mufflers dumbed

-Electric water pump

-A/C delete

-Cams ( PI, regrinds)

-Dyno Tune

-4.10 gear

-aluminum driveshaft

-tubular k-member , a-arms

-A full drag suspension

-lots of weight reduction

-skinnys and slicks probally about 26-8.5-15 et drags

This should get you close man I would like to see you do it would bea nice accoplishment for the none PI cars. Best of luck to you man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
98N2OGT said:
Ok you really wanna do a bolt on 98 and go fast here ya go a list of bolt ons and suggestions of which in theroy should get you there.

-aluminum driveshaft

-A full drag suspension

-lots of weight reduction

These I already sort of have. It's a GTS model, meaning there's not much more weight to reduce besides lighter wheels. It weighs 3200 lbs w/o me and 3300 w/ me(I don't weigh much). I've got an aluminum DS. And I have HPM Sr. uppers and HPM Jr. lowers, all I really need there is 70/30's for the front and 50/50's for the rear, I'll probably keep my current springs. I'd like to get the Illumina Drag adj's. I've also got HPM frame connectors.

Also, definietly longtubes with a Prochamber, and Mac pro dump's. Do dump's reduce HP in any kind of way??

4.10's will probably become a must if all else fails. And definitely a dedicated set of drag wheels. Preferable the smallest I can go in the front, with at least 26x8 ET drags in the rear. Another question, I already have 28-spline Moser hardened axles, should I upgrade to 31's?? Also, if I don't upgrade, which rear diff should I go with, that's still streetable?

The PI cams have been shown to add at least 10rwhp and 15rwtq. A buddy of mine added 99 PI cams on a N/A 97 T-bird and gained 13rwhp and 18rwtq, and that's through an auto. So definitely PI-cams are in the future. And then a dyno tune to top it off.

Everything else you listed will take away from the daily drivability that I want to keep the in the car.
 
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