Secondary Timing Components- Verification

I left a message, Ed.

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New Rabbit Hole=====>>>> Now looking into building a Teksid short block since I'm sure this Livernoise 3.75 stroker crank-assy wasn't made to handle the power I'm making with it.

Right now I'm just collecting good parts as I find good deals:
Just bought a Teksid block ($100)
Just bought a Kellogg crank ($700)
Already had a set of factory Manley Rods but will put good bolts in them

Oh boyyyyy….here we goooooo..

KS

I won't be using this existing short block assembly that I'm currenlty abusing for a rebuild it will be all new. Livernoise rates this stroker assembly at 700hp (it's now pushing 1200hp) but I'm not sure what the weak link is (pistons?). I also don't know for sure which kit this motor is since it came with the car. Since I'm not sure what the weak link is in their build it has always been a mosquito buzzing in my ear so before I found out the hard way it may be best to build something I know inside/out.

Currently I have factory Cobra Manley rods in the basement b/c I got them at a good deal five years ago. Since I got them I have been wanting to look into a brand new short block and since I found the major parts at a reasonable price today I can sit back and evaluate where I want to go with it. If I get a warm fuzzy feeling that this Livernoise stroked short block can handle where it's going then I will use it. I'm not losing $$ with my block/crank purchases today.

I purchased 4V DB casting Mach1 heads complete with cams and valve covers for $600 which will give Livernoise something to do when the time comes.

ks

Kevin,

I meant to comment on this last evening but forgot! I recall reading in one of your threads that you were preparing the primary chain tensioners by removing some of the ratcheting teeth so the tensioner did not unnecessarily maintain tension on the primary drive chains. This is the right thing to do. While many of the guys have done that, and if you get enough teeth off, the mod does work as intended. However, it does beg the question of why to leave the ratcheting arm in at all — there is no good answer for that.

There is a better modification that allows the removal of the ratcheting arm altogether. In the bottom of the piston well you place a 0.200" long tubular spacer to maintain minimum chain tension when idling or engine off conditions to prevent the chain from jumping a tooth on a drive gear when you restart. The modification was a Sean Hyland-originated fix that work extraordinarily well. Here is a link to chapter and verse on how to do the mod; click here => Primary Chain Tensioner Mod. You can also find it in the TToC under the engine section about 2/3 of the way down. I believe Hyland illustrated the modified tensioner in his book but did not elaborate on how they did the modification.

Thanks for pointing that out! I remember glancing over that thread and the modification looked easy enough. I figured when I got that far I was going to review the procedure in more detail and compare it to the dental effort to remove the teeth because I do prefer the machined parts over dental work.

Side note #1 - on IC's:
I emailed Mike at Turbos Direct (They are building my turbos using Garret wheels but using their own compressor/exhaust castings they designed) and he suggested a Garrett IC core 24x4.5x12 (no tanks supplied and no idea how many rows) and he says Garrett doesn't have efficiency diagrams/graphs for their IC cores... I will compare the core to what I have which is a Treadstone TRTT9 <= clicky ... Still looking tho.

Side note #2 - on intake manifold:
Yep, the gent I am getting the heads from has the intake we discussed so I will be getting that from him. Now I need to figure out how to minimize the rats nest of wiring beneath it...

Thanks for last night, it was quite enjoyable!

ks

I have been doing a lot of research on IC's over the last few evenings and I am now, more than ever, convinced that my IC is not up to par for COOLING despite it being rated for "1500hp". I'm glad we had this discussion!

I have Garretts list of cores and they don't have anything that is close to fitting. The closest one is 3" taller than my current one so I don't know if I can fab something that will fit or not. The part of the design I am struggling with most is that I need Vertical flow and most are Horizontal flow - which the cores can be trimmed by removing a row. Even finding two smaller horizontal flowing cores placed side-by-side vertically isn't working. I don't know of anyone else that makes cores with the same quality as Garrett. Of course there are companies that make cores but I don't know enough about them and Garrett seems to be the hands down favorite. Any suggestions?
I may have to model something up in CAD to get a better visual of size to see what room I have to work with.

I got my used heads today!
2004 Mach 1, DB castings complete with valve-train and valve covers = $600.
Cams and valve-train are rusty which I am bummed about b/c I was hoping to resell them.

This is the same gent that I bought the Mach 1 intake from for $400 and should be getting it next week.
When I'm done getting all the turbo piping made and intake pipes fabbed Livernoise with get the heads for full CNC work, valve seats, v-guides, valves, springs, blah, blah..

ks