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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Reading through the 3.4 thread, the theme seems to be which is faster in the 1/4. Honesty it seems a good chassis, auto, and 60ft are needed for those cars.

What about street cars? We're talking stiffer suspensions, stick, wide radials, street lega, and used in street legal drag, autocross, corner carving, fun drives!

What opinions does everyone have on a street car comparing turbo to blowerl? Let's say under 600rwhp.

I've been deliberating a small (61mm) single turbo for fast spool and have been told it will support up to 600rwhp maxed vs. blower either centri or positive displ. in my 99 cobra with T56 and built IRS, full chassis/suspension mods.

Which is:

More reliable?

More fun?

Better performance in drag, autocross, all around?
 

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i think for under 650rwhp just keep with a ts. but for a street car over 650rwhp, go with a turbo.
why?

Iv been in a 700+++rwhp ts car and a 680tt car. Ts car was A BLAST and still pulled hard. 100% full weight, stock suspension, nothing was touched on the car interior wise. I still need more convincing to go TT on a street legal 6 speed 03 04 cobra
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sorry what's TS?

One of the reasons I started this thread is that I have not seen any turbo stangs that are not going for broke HP wise. Curious for those out there in the 600rwhp down range with turbo how it works on the street with the considerations in the first post....
 

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I had both both on the car so far. The turbo setup is way quicker at the same boost level but i enjoyed the instant torque of the blower for daily use.

Alex
 

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why?

Iv been in a 700+++rwhp ts car and a 680tt car. Ts car was A BLAST and still pulled hard. 100% full weight, stock suspension, nothing was touched on the car interior wise. I still need more convincing to go TT on a street legal 6 speed 03 04 cobra
Because i assume a street car runs on pump gas. I would be very hesitant to run more than 650-700 with any TS.

I would feel much better in a 700rwhp+ turbo car on pump(91 or 93). its just my opinion... doesn't necessarily mean its correct.
 

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Sorry what's TS?

One of the reasons I started this thread is that I have not seen any turbo stangs that are not going for broke HP wise. Curious for those out there in the 600rwhp down range with turbo how it works on the street with the considerations in the first post....
TS = Twin Screw supercharger.

A turbo will make more high-end power for a given amount of boost compared to a supercharged engine. Conversely, it can make the same power on less boost, which is safer for a given octane fuel. On the other hand, a turbo setup has relatively low torque until it's spooled up, and also has lag.

A positive-displacement (PD) supercharger, either Roots or twin screw, will provide better low-end torque, which is my personal preference for a street car. But as mentioned above, will not be able to make the same amount of high-end power as a turbo (at same boost pressure) because of the "parasitic" loss req'd to drive the supercharger.

A dynamic-type blower (centri) builds boost slowly with rpm, so again, a sacrifice of torque at low rpm. (Yes...define "low". And some will say, who cares...just down shift.) But these superchargers do usually have fairly decent efficiencies, so they can make good power up top. Not as good as a turbo for a given boost pressure, however. They do not have lag like a turbo, however.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the clarification. If I wanted the efficiency benefits of the turbo (no parasitic drag) and good performance in lower rpm's wouldn't a single 60mm turbo kit do the job nicely? What about going ball bearing on a 60mm? If the boost came on at 2k or 2500rpms with smaller turbo and still deliver 500+rwhp that seems like it would be awesome. Are my numbers about right?
 

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Because i assume a street car runs on pump gas. I would be very hesitant to run more than 650-700 with any TS.

I would feel much better in a 700rwhp+ turbo car on pump(91 or 93). its just my opinion... doesn't necessarily mean its correct.
I hear ya. The car I was in and drove myself, was a 302 stroker, heads cam, 2.8hkb on pump gas, and it made 7xx on pump gas, safe tune.

If I had a automatic, solid rear axle 03 04 cobra, then I would do a turbo
 

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Thanks for the clarification. If I wanted the efficiency benefits of the turbo (no parasitic drag) and good performance in lower rpm's wouldn't a single 60mm turbo kit do the job nicely? What about going ball bearing on a 60mm? If the boost came on at 2k or 2500rpms with smaller turbo and still deliver 500+rwhp that seems like it would be awesome. Are my numbers about right?
Maybe Josh (smashedheadcat) will chime in...He has two 50mm turbos that spool pretty quick (if i remember his video correctly), something like 25-28 they were almost full boogie. I think small twins might spool a little quicker than a single 60 due to A/R housing size...but honestly you could argue that either way. Both would spool low enough to be fun. I think most guys go with the TS route at that power level (I did too at one point) because it's cheaper than a turbo setup, and the down low grunt is undeniable compared to a turbo car. It really doesn't make sense to run a turbo setup if you're not going to set it for kill. You can get pretty much the same power (500's) out of a TS or even a ported eaton with spray for far cheaper. Just my .02.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'll build the fuel system separate from a kit and the way I like (overbuilt) so I am looking at a basic tuner kit whatever the type. That and the motor would be a wash since it's needed for any type of FI. I've already got a full MM Hellion Kmember kit to allow flexibility for whatever FI style I go with. The hellion single looks like about $4800-$5000. The Procharger D1 tuner kit is about the same and I think the TS kit is a bit more. So I'm not concerned about the cost of the kit as much as the result.

With a 500-550rwhp goal I can get there with any of the options. Looking for the most efficient, easiest to maintain, most reliable, and the easiest to drive. Turbo got my attention for no belt issues, no engine drag so improved efficiency, good torque and if it's small, minimal lag. I think it'd be pretty cool too.
 

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Again just my .02:

Don't run a turbo if you want reliability. When I switched, I melted wires, clutch cables, all kinds of crap. The heat from a turbo setup is ALWAYS a factor. When i had my KB, I drove the car across the U.S. twice with no issues. The way it is now, I question the ability to drive it across town or more than a few hours with out melting something. The Cobra was designed with a PD blower in mind so the reliable factor is hands down less of an issue than ANY turbo setup. Plus they can still make sick power. It is wise to learn from others mistakes...here's one I learned the hard way. When you think you found a good turbo kit to install, take the kit price and double it. That will get you running. Then add 3-5K a year in maintenance. That's how it's been for me so far and i have a "bolt-on" kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Wow, that is good info and the type of feedback I'm looking for. Perhaps the blower kits are just further along in design for durability. It was an OEM choice so I don't disagree. A KB or Whipple or Centri is on the plate for discussion too. I think turbo's are interesting but don't know enough about them other than the obvious if they will be a good fit for my goals. I don't see much discussion of the maintenance and "driver" type discussions on them.

I appreciate the feedback.
 
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