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Has anyone built the 5.0 stroke kit yet? If so, what kit did you use and did you run into any problems?
 

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Well no one has done this yet? I quess I'll be the first.
 

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WE HAVE.....

and no problems! We used our own stroker kit. Any questions shoot me an e-mail

~Jim
 

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results...

We just finished a stroker in a new Marauder and dynoed it. The baseline was 233hp & 255 lb/ft stock. The addition of our stroker and re-tuning resulted in 311hp & 395 ft-lbs !! A Novi was then bolted on with 12lbs of boost and hp jumped to the 440 range! This car was just tested at MotorTrend and will be in the July issue. Performance statistics they achieved were as follows:

1/4 mile: 13.42 @ 104
0-60 : 5.07
0-100: 12.71
0-100-0: 17.7

Stock
1/4 mile: 15.5
0-60: 7.5

Anymore info just e-mail or PM me.

~Jim
 

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Wow almost 80rwhp from the 5.0 stroker?!? Would you see similar results from the 5.0L big bore block?

Darren
 

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I've been considering doing a stroker motor as I will need a built shortblock for my car anyway. I have been told that it's really not worth the extra money if your going with a power adder though. I called Wynspeed today to inquire about their engine building services and to check on the 5.0 Big Bore kit they had.

What I found out is that if I send them my block they will will do a competition short block build up for $2800 and the Big Bore for $3500. Really it's only a $700 difference for the stroker, I don't think that's too bad at all. The only reason I would go with a stroker is to get the increased tourque. I'm just not sure that the Torque increase would justify the extra $700.

Again I am only speaking from a power adder perspective on this. I too am still somewhat in the dark about solid increases with the Big Bore setup. I will say that the gentleman at Wynspeed are very helpful and will take the time to answer all your questions. I got the feeling that they also don't see a big advantage to using the Big Bore kit over a standard block.

Razor.
 

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Razor.....

are you sure you are talking about the same things??? The Big-bore is not a stroker....just a big bore. It uses a 3.700 sleeve with a stock stroke crank. It helps with upper RPM HP capability as the big bore helps unshroud the valves while the stock stroke reduces parasitic losses with higher RPMS. You will gain in both HP and TQ...but mainly just from the larger cubic inch displacement. A stroker is what you want for the big jump in torque. We do a 302ci stroker, a 304ci big bore and a monster 327ci big-bore stroker. Any questions feel free to e-mail or pm me.

~Jim
 

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Re: Razor.....

VTEngines said:
are you sure you are talking about the same things??? The Big-bore is not a stroker....just a big bore. It uses a 3.700 sleeve with a stock stroke crank. It helps with upper RPM HP capability as the big bore helps unshroud the valves while the stock stroke reduces parasitic losses with higher RPMS. You will gain in both HP and TQ...but mainly just from the larger cubic inch displacement. A stroker is what you want for the big jump in torque. We do a 302ci stroker, a 304ci big bore and a monster 327ci big-bore stroker. Any questions feel free to e-mail or pm me.

~Jim
O.k. Jim now I'm confused.:D I have attached a picture of the advertisment and circled the 5.0 Big Bore kit I mentioned in my other post. I was under the impression that it was a stroker motor. Please correct if I am wrong about this. I would also be greatful (And I think others would as well) if you could break down the differences between the big bore, stroker, and big bore-strokers. My motor is on borrowed time like all other supercharged cobras and I am trying to figure out how I want to go about rebuilding my shortblock.

For me it's important that I go the best route for extracting more horsepower and especially tourque. With that said, If I'm only to gain 20-30 ft lbs over a standard shortblock by going to a stroker then I don't feel the additional investment would be worth it to me. My ultimate goal is to obtain 650 streetable daily driven horsepower while having the durability in the motor to back it up. If a stroker or big bore can provide decent gains in torque for the dollar, I would be interested in that.

I truely appreciate you taking the time to offer your advice and share it with someone like myself who isn't a motor whiz. I'm sure the others reading your posts appreciate it as well.;)

Razor.
 

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Razor,

The part that you circled is only a rotating assy (block and machine work not included). I can sell you the same thing except with a new romeo crank and balanced for $1779 + shipping, regardless if it's std. +.020 or a big bore. They don't have a stroker listed in their add. You will also notice that they specify stock steel crank.

BTW, I'm not trying to spam the board. I just think people need to look in more places. Most people don't realize that we are probably the cheapest out there. Especially when we don't sell used parts.
 

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Mike, I just got a quote from you guys last week and I must tell you - You guys will be doing my shortblock. Very good prices great parts and a great reputation. I'll be seeing you guys at the mod shootout again this year. Take care.

Brian.
 

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Mike Tymensky said:
Razor,

The part that you circled is only a rotating assy (block and machine work not included). I can sell you the same thing except with a new romeo crank and balanced for $1779 + shipping, regardless if it's std. +.020 or a big bore. They don't have a stroker listed in their add. You will also notice that they specify stock steel crank.

BTW, I'm not trying to spam the board. I just think people need to look in more places. Most people don't realize that we are probably the cheapest out there. Especially when we don't sell used parts.
Yes I am aware of what the ad said. The ad is actually what prompted me to call and inquire about their services. Basically what it came down to is me sending them my block and they would turn it into the big bore for $3500. The turn around time was quoted at 2 weeks as well.

To be honest I just don't have enough information between the big bore, stroker, and big bore-stroker to make a decision on what's right for me. As I stated before I am looking to create a 650HP (at the wheels) daily driver/weekend warrior. It's also got to be reliable. This thread has opened up an entire new can of worms for me. I am very appreciative of everyone such as yourself taking the time to try and help us little folks.;)

I know that I will need to switch to a return style fuel system, Bigger injectors, possible larger head unit to replace my S-Trim, cams and head work to start with. That in itself will be quite an expense for a modest working man such as myself. So getting back to the choice of motors, I really need the best bang for the buck. Could you share your thoughts on all of this?

Thanks in advance,
Razor.
 

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Razor,

Here is a dyno sheet of a big-bore that we installed into a GT. The Thread is Here .



As stated this was just a big-bore shortblock swap no tuning had been performed. I don't have any dyno sheets with just a stroker shortblock. The stroker also reduces the rpm operating range.

Our big-bore kit would run you $3700 with your block and a new Cobra crank balanced and pin-fit. If you sent us your crank it would be $2760 (assembly add $350) plus shipping.

Jim, I do not disaree with the #'s you have listed, but being that was for a mag article, personally I would tend to believe the baseline might be one of the lower pulls to show a larger increase. I have dealt with the mags and understand how they work these articles. Also the #'s before the blower are probably from an optimized tune and exhaust. That is why we opted for the A-B type test and suffer the consequenses if the dyno showed otherwise. BTW, I still owe you and Scott a cold one. :D
 

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Mike Tymensky said:

Also the #'s before the blower are probably from an optimized tune and exhaust.


.....you are correct, the final dyno numbers are with an optimized tune and exhaust. It really shows people just how important it is to get a proper re-tune whenever components are changed. Timing is so critical to making torque. I'm thinkin we need to take the Marauder to the next Hooter's burnout contest!!!

BTW, I still owe you and Scott a cold one. :D

Oh don't worry....i won't forget! :D
Razor....

Anytime youcan increase your cubic inchesyou are going to increase both HP and TQ. A big bore setup will tend to increase TQ less than a stroker setup....given the same cubic inch result. A stroker has a few things going for it to help produce torque, such as more dwell time at TDC, more cylinder pressure and a "mechanical" advantage with the longer stroke....but this is also accomplished at the sacrifice of RPM capability. You really need to take a good look at what you want from your combo and how you are realistically going to drive the thing. If you wants lots of grunt at the touch of the throttle, then a stroker might be your choice, But, if you like to spin the bejesus outa your mill, then you would want a little less stroke and the big-bore setup would be a better fit . If all else fails....there's always the option of more boost....LOL!

~Jim
 

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I would like to jump in here, Wazzzzup Mikey :D.... LOL I'm by no means the expert, but here's my take on the whole big bore, stroker deal....

Bigger bores will help unshroud the valves and provide some good power, but the cycl walls get really thin in my opinion...If you look at the distance between each cycl with the Big Bore, there isn't much left in the block....In terms of Supercharging a Big Bore block, I have my hesitations about it...The standard blocks are thin enough and by opening up the bores with new liners and decreasing the material even more in the cycl is very risky in my opinion, especially with motors that are going to have ALOT of cyclinder pressure with lots of Boost....I think the Big Bore is good for a N/A combo, i.e. Mike's yellow beast, but for a blown application, I would hesitate on it.....

As for the stroker idea...any time you increase the rod ratio and lengthen the rod, you run into high rpm problems....Not just with modulars but with any kind of motor....However, Randy Haywood runs a 5.4 motor and spins it up to 8K rpms with no problem....The Longer stroke 5.4 motor has the same bore size as the 4.6 just a longer rod....Randy has shown though that the motor can take ALOT of boost and high rpms....

Lastly, last I heard you couldn't do a "big bore" on an iron block???? Maybe I"m wrong about this, but the big bore was for the alum blocks with the new cast iron liners....

Razor, for what you want, it will require alot....650rwhp on a daily driver is tough to do, but can be done....I would go with a 8.5 to 1 shortblock, just keep your 4.6 block and go .020" over on the bore.....Get some head work done, and go with some nice Ferrera valves and valvesprings, maybe even some cams, but stock cams have proven to work really well....Open up the intake alot, as thats probably the biggest restriction and get a bigger blower, either a T trim or a YS trim or a D1, or F1 or Novi 2000 and turn up the boost to about 16lbs or so....With a proper fuel system, at least 55lbs injectors, big pump, lines, rails, etc, and a good CUSTOM tune, you will be able to get what you want....In my opinion, for a boosted application, you can stay with a standard 4.6 based block and just go .020" on the machine work....

Good luck with your combo :D



Jeff
 

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I have to agree with Jeff. Although I am not familiar with the cylinder wall thickness, I am familiar with the extra cost in the machining and whatnot assosiated with building a stroker engine. If you have to have more cubes, build a 5.4. To me it only makes better sense. As far as making 650rwhp, that is very obtainable with the standard 4.6. Just adding the extra cubes is not gonna make it an easy task though. A well built and thoughout buildup along with a good tune should put you where you want to be. Keep in mind though, the more power you make the more problems you encounter, generally speaking ofcourse.
 

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The big-bore blocks will take boost. We just recommend keeping to a max of around 12-15#'s. They may go more, but I would only do that in a race type application.

The other thing to think about, how often are you at high boost on the street? Most of the time you aren't. An engine pushing that kind of power/boost will normally just blow the tires off on the street.
 

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The other thing to think about, how often are you at high boost on the street? Most of the time you aren't. An engine pushing that kind of power/boost will normally just blow the tires off on the street.
Very good point Mike.

I guess that is not a good option for me since I have a habit of leaving the line on the rev limiter:smash :smoker
 
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