Svt Engine Storage

1893 Views 8 Replies 8 Participants Last post by 68gtscode, Mar 13, 2012

spaniard

Discussion Starter · Mar 9, 2012

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Any thoughts on long term engine storage? My engine won't be blasing around for a while, maybe in 3 year sometime. So I worry about the cyliners rusting and the valve train being left in one position for extended periods.

I hunted around the web and found some advice on the Corvetteaction forum attributed to GM which advises that if an engine is to be stored for nine months or longer, "remove the spark plugs and add approximately one (1) ounce of engine oil to each cylinder. The engine should be rotated just after adding the oil to the cylinders. The purpose of this step is to coat the cylinder bore to protect against rust formation during storage. Also note, this procedure is repeated after extended (18 months and longer) storage before start up."
I was planning something like this, but anticipated rotating the engine every other month or so (by hand).
The engine is a new, but it has been bench run for an hour to tune and assist in break in.
thanks
Fred

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Fat-cat

· #2 · Mar 9, 2012

There was another thread on this not to long ago. Put it on a stand if you can pull the pan off. Get a big ass poly bag that you can tie off. Spray the crap out of it. ALso you can get some moisture suckers and toss them in the bottom to prevent rust and stuff. Suck air out as much as you can with a shop vac seal and forget. It is best if you rotate it from time to time and reseal.

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IWRBB

· #3 · Mar 9, 2012

I think your plan is fine. Oil up the cylinders periodically when you rotate it. Bagging it would be nice, but it really depends on where you are storing it. If the garage doors stays shut 99% of the time, I wouldn't bag it. If you lived in the desert, I wouldn't bother. You can admire it, work on it, clean if it's not bagged. However if you are one of those guys that leaves the doors open all day- when it's raining, on warm humid days after it's been cold in the garage, or the worst, you park wet cars in there- then you should definately bag it. Best way to tell is to look at some of your black oxide tools, like impact sockets. If they are rusting at all, you should probably bag it.

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Helomech74

· #4 · Mar 9, 2012

I just did this. I put the engine on a stand, pulled the oil pan off, the valve covers, spark plugs and timing cover (I went overboard on this I think). Then I got 2 cans of fogging oil from the local boat/motorcycle store and sprayed the hell out of everything I could. I sprayed down into the cylinders and rotated the engine, then sprayed more into the cylinders. Once it was totally soaked in fogging oil, I put the valve covers, oil pan, timing cover back on, tossed 2 large bags of desiccant into the valley and wrapped the engine with clear shrink wrap. Once it was totally cocooned up I covered it in 2 large contractor bags and vacuumed the air out of it and sealed the hole. Mine will be in storage for about a year and it was already starting to get surface rust on the block so I had to do something.

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CobraBob

· #5 · Mar 9, 2012

Helomech74 said:
I just did this. I put the engine on a stand, pulled the oil pan off, the valve covers, spark plugs and timing cover (I went overboard on this I think). Then I got 2 cans of fogging oil from the local boat/motorcycle store and sprayed the hell out of everything I could. I sprayed down into the cylinders and rotated the engine, then sprayed more into the cylinders. Once it was totally soaked in fogging oil, I put the valve covers, oil pan, timing cover back on, tossed 2 large bags of desiccant into the valley and wrapped the engine with clear shrink wrap. Once it was totally cocooned up I covered it in 2 large contractor bags and vacuumed the air out of it and sealed the hole. Mine will be in storage for about a year and it was already starting to get surface rust on the block so I had to do something.

Wow, that is one of the most thorough long-term storage engine preps I've read.....ever! Nice plan and your engine will thank you later for it.

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65wildstang

· #6 · Mar 11, 2012

Had mine in the shop on a pallet for 3 years before mockup. I did as you sad previosly. Every month I would rotate the motor and on occasions give it a fine shot of oil in each cylinder. The humidity in TN is killer in july & august. Once istalled it fired up without any issues. Good Luck

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yknot

· #7 · Mar 13, 2012

We have a lot of long turm engine storage....the way we do it is to first make sure the engine itself is clean. As most od our engines are fresh builds they are, but others might not be. I like to start with the basics, I tape-up every opening, where dirt or critters might get in. This would be the throttle body, any breather lines, water opening, fuel openings and exhaust opens also. Once the engine is completely taped, then think about where is goes. if it is complete but ourt of the car, you can store it on the engine stand or a engine cart, the cart is better as it takes up less room and gets the engine down next to the floor for a better center of gravity.. I havn't been able to find any specifically built for the Ford Modular engine, but I buy the Ford Small block crate, and with a simple modification, it works just fine. Fresh rebuilds will not need any oil in the cylinders, as they have already been well lubricated, but you may want to oil a used engine. I also like to store the engine with no oil in the pan, or fresh oil in the pan, never use or keep old engine oil in a storage engine. The oil has water in it, plus many acids and other comtaments. Now use a engine bag or engine cover to protect and cover the engine. Summit Racing sells large engine plastic bags, and speedway sells great engine covers.

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Helomech74

· #8 · Mar 13, 2012

Check out motofeet.com if you want a nice low to the ground bolt on stand/cradle. I have a set and they work great, they bolt to the motor mount holes and keep the engine down low, easy to roll around and store. I pushed mine under the work bench in my shop and it fit perfect. You can get them with or without wheels and they are engine specific, so you can get them for modular engines. I bought my first set and then duplicated 2 other sets on my own.

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68gtscode

· #9 · Mar 13, 2012 (Edited)

Please disregard post, I didn't read everyone's posts thoroughly before posting... Sorry.

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