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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, I have a 98 GT. I bought the Bullitt sway bar, spring, strut and shock package several years ago. Big improvement. I wanted to lower it a big more so I picked up Steeda sport springs. I am thinking about getting Eibach or SR sway bars and possible new shocks and struts. I had already installed J&M rear lca and uca and 18" wheels with 265-40 tires. Front end rebuilt stock, but have urethane bushings. Has anyone gone this route and has some feedback?
Thanks, Mike
 

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Hey Mike--Have a 98 Gt too- not running a rear sway bar at all - but have a single adjustable 4 link setup and retained the quad shocks too. For a while ( about 4 years ) I did not run the quads because of coilovers but went back with my eibach lowering springs in the rear and went back with quads even with 10.5 x 18 toyo rear tires. Your tires would have to be 12" wide to interfere with your quad shocks despite what trash I have read in forums all over the place. My car hooks hard and no wheel hop at all. My 8.8 rear also has welded axle tubes and is fully braced and gusseted. Launches sweet with the 4.10's in it. Not quite the same combo but I am running the sport springs all around and aftermarket adjustable 4 link so I thought I would chime in. The bad part about about lowering the car 2 + inches is to get it on my 2 post lift I have to jack up the front of the car set the legs and then jack up the rear and do the same----Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply Tom, the crickets were getting loud. Did the sport springs really go all the way to a 2" drop? They are sold as 1-1/2". I know I'm splitting hairs, but it all matters especially driving on the street. My stock cats will scrap on parking lot speed bumps if I go to fast over them now.... I forgot to add that I also installed the MM panhard bar so the quad shocks came off then. I am thinking about putting the stock uca's back on as MM recommends even though I put the aluminum swivel bushing on the axle side. Funny how there are so many forum "experts" that feel they really know what is the best set up. You really have to sort through the data presented.
 

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Merry Christmas Mike to you and yours-- I'm down at least 2" even without cats I scrape going over speedbumps and such. The panhard bar only centers the axle to the car. Wheel hop could still occur especially with power adders. I have a 150 shot holley noszle kit on mine with under the injector spray for more even distribution. Even with the adjustability of my 4 link on my uppers and lowers I went back to the quad setup. The car itself is the expert because it will sure tell you what it does not like pretty quick. Having the patience to see it through to fix the problems is where we fit in and changing things around will always bring about something else with it. At least that's been my experience with trying to build a streetable race car and a daily driver in the same package. I'm getting myself pumped up to put my newly built 4v forged aluminum Teskid engine in-----Now for a boatload of changes-----
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey Tom, back at you. I hope your Christmas was good! Yeah finding your own direction especially when you try to keep it streetable is a path not well worn. I really haven't done much with the motor except gather basic parts. Going PI with Comp 262 and want to port myself based on guidelines gathered from Nick McKinney (RIP). Still haven't found a trustworthy machine shop in Tucson after using 3 and having issues. I have tuning software/hardware but still learning how to use it and with the car as my daily it's a slow process. Sometimes I wish I could slam a carb and distributor on it.. I rebuilt the 8.8 and put 3.73's in it as well as rebuilding the T45. Doing complete interior and when done I will take off the AZ sunchalked paint and make it new again. It's all fun just wish I had one to drive and one to play with..
Mike
 

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Hey Mike- don't know if you already purchased your cams but I have a set of VT cams sold by Cushman Motorsports 560/575 lift 225/235 duration. These are specifically for PI heads. They are stage 2 and I have brand new in the box springs for them. The cams have break in time on them since we put them in my friends car and someone t boned him 3 days later. We pulled the engine and rear end (Trans was toast) scrapped the rest except for the chipped computer , wheels and tires. I bought the cams from him with the thought of putting PI heads on my stang and installing the cams. I probably should have bought his motor then but I have had these cams a while now and I have gone a whole different path with my car at this point. When I pull my motor to put in the 4 valve stuff I will have a Fox lake P-51 racing intake with a 78mm throttle body that I would like to move too. I have enjoyed my car for the last 12 years but I have sprayed it pretty hard and she is showing me some signs of not liking that anymore so in order to get round about the same ponies it's time for a 4 valve stroked beast--323 cubes. Nick was a great guy-- I spoke on the phone with him several times and got some pi head parts that I still have from him. I have a plethora of 2v parts so If you need something let me know. I have a C&L upper intake too for a stock plastic intake that is ported by SR customs. It will take up to a 78mm throttle body. It's 4v shopping for me from now on- that will tear my wallet in half at least---Take care
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey Tom, yeah I bought the Comp 262ah several years ago along with new springs from them. Then I picked up pi heads off a crown vic in a u-pull yard. I did the pi manifold conversion from Livernois when my crossover started leaking. I have a quarter horse and software from Moates but I still am learning to use it. I too have had my car 12 years but no real motor work. A 326 4v is the ticket for sure. Should be fun to run. What/who have you been using for tuning?
 

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Happy New Year to all----

Mike--
I use Dennis Ramsey in Lutz Florida. His shop does all kind of performance work- Great work at Reasonable prices . I have Iconel intake valves that have been shaved on the bottom so they are flat and 1mm oversize ss valves for the exhaust side for PI heads. This is the setup I had wanted to run on the PI heads I purchased from my friend but never came into fruition as I began to study flow of different Ford heads. The real way to go is three valve heads on the 2 valve engine- with a 3 valve intake and valve covers of your choosing. With a good set of camshafts you are now in the 300 + category with livernois vvt lockouts and some 3v short tubes or long tubes. Flows real near the 4v numbers. It's a shame Ford waited so long to give the Mustang some decent power that could hang with the camaro and bird of the same jaunra. It really wasn't until the 03/04 cobra came along that the stang even became a threat to other model muscle cars . Yea there was the 2000 cobra R and even earlier lightning trucks but they all sported 5.4's- too heavy and require a k-member change. Don't know your end goal with your GT but if it's anything like mine your wallet runs out way before the longing for the parts we really want to get real performance out of the early mod car. Happy new year to you and yours------
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey Tom, happy new year! So what have you had Dennis do for you? I assume it's an out of state thing from your signature. I may be short sighted, but I feel like 350-375 crank hp will make a good dd. From everything I have read you can get there with ported pi heads, the 262ah, tuning, exhaust, and about 11-1 compression. My daughter has an 06 GT so I do appreciate the 3 valve as well. I also helped my son put together a 1996 Z28 with a 383 and a T56.
 

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Chime in any time Guys-----

Hey Mike---
Dennis got me 265 ponies with the stock gt shortblock-- 415 ponies with spray-- lotta fun at the track- with my new setup with the big bore stroked combo I don't know yet-
Gonna push for the 800 pony mark with spray again but trying to do this multi port for the spray is turning out to be a headache with the early model cobra intake, my bottom end should handle 1000hp the way it is built-- should be wild since I have never driven anything with that kind of HP. Ordered my eibach coil over springs today 12" x 225lb. Going to setup my pro dampers as a coil over with a strange coil over conversion kit. Next will be a UPR chrome moly K member and lower tubular control arms- then the engine swap. I am going this route so there is plenty of room to access headers and starter and such that the stock K member bottles you up from accessing besides shedding about 70lbs. I still believe for your combo you would be better off going the three valve head route since it is so hard to really gain any noticeable HP with any two valve head --except for the wallet tearing Trick flows and they still don't flow as good as a 4 valve head. Close but no cigar--- I've been really frustrated at the non performance of a two valve without a power adder and by spraying mine there's not much life left in her at this point. Oil pressure is fine but the valve guides are leaking oil into the combustion chamber at startup and that sucks- but i guess a 22 yr old motor with power adders needs a break at some point.

- - - Updated - - -

Hey Mike --I moved to Florida 2 Years ago------Fyi
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Tom, yeah I know the 3v flows better and lockouts should allow it to run off a 2v ecm, but I read Holdener's dyno test book and he dyno tested a bunch of combos and could produce about 380 CRANK hp off the 2v 262ah build. I know everyone talks about rear wheel hp so I know it won't be that. I just think it could get at least 350 at the crank and that should be enough fun getting to work 10 miles each way....
 

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Mike--- Yea a 350 pony car would be fun daily driver but I am not sure of the cost to get there-- without going big bore and trickflow heads with long tubes. Trickflow boasts of 400 ponies with their top end kit but in reality from cars dyno-ed it's about 380. Have you started to port your heads yet? Be prepared to go thru some bits and a bunch of oil to keep them clean. Paper rolls will fill up to quick with aluminum so bits are the way to go to remove most of the material and follow up with your final on sandpaper rolls. My coilover stuff will be here by Friday so I will be putting in my Strange coilover kits on my Eibach pro dampers with an eibach spring that is 12"-225lb. Dave at Eibach helped me to figure out my spring rate for street /strip. I am getting antsy to get the suspension work out of the way so I give the old girl a new heart and let her pulse mine. With the views listed on the site you would think other N/A guys would chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Tom, supposedly Holdener got that out of the pi heads, but it could be bs numbers, kind of like the TF being enhanced. I assume my course of action is 10 years after the curve especially with a blower being the quick path to power even a bone stock motor. I'm too old school. I also plan manual brakes and steering like my old '69 camaro had in 1979....I guess I miss the simple set up. The only thing I've fully embraced in fuel injection although still learning the tuning. Its exciting to have new parts coming in and the anticipation of that first drive after the I stall. I hope you hit the sweet spot with your new build! Hey how's the weather in Florida? We have been 10 degrees under normal here in Tucson.
 

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Mike-- Right along with you about the old school deal-- That's why I still spray-- The weather has been unusually rainy and chillier but we are due for a warmup here shortly. My eibach coilover springs should be here tomorrow afternoon, the conversion kits came in from Summit today so I will be prepping the car for the struts to come out tomorrow. Should have her back on the road for the Sunday cruise. Have a great weekend---
 

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Hey Mike-- Coil overs are finally done- Could not use the eibach pro dampers since the Strange coilover threaded tube would not fit over the knurl crimp top that holds the strut together- had to shout at Summit to get the Strange single adjustable struts and they ride amazing set up as coil overs as compared to having the spring in the stock pocket-- literally a night and day difference. The steering is much more responsive too. Next it's on to the chrome-moly k-member and a arms to have some maneuvering room for the new engine. This car really has my wallet on a diet as I move on to make some power N/A.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hey Tom, congrats. I have heard coil overs really made a difference in ride and handling, but it seemed hard to believe. Glad its proven accurate for you. I am very interested to see how the k works out. I love the idea of more room to work, but so many claim only the MM or stock can handle the street. Keep me posted!
 

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Hey Mike--
Sorry for not posting sooner-- Have been busy in the shop working on other peoples stuff- Have not had a chance to install the upr stuff yet but am looking forward to it in the next coming weeks after I finish on a few of the customer projects. I just sold some more of my 2v stuff- some cams- lifters- manley springs and MHS valve seals from Nick's time there. Glad to see some of this stuff go. The 98 Cobra lid came in today for my brand new old stock lower intake and I cut it for a single blade oval throttle body. Looks nice and it is in the parts cleaner soaking so all the EGR gunk comes out. Purchased a conversion harness to go to COP's along with a set of COP valve covers, now I want to get the 1/2" aluminum spacer that goes between the intake lid and lower portion of the intake to get a little more working CFM out of that 1650 cfm throttle body.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hey Tom, good to hear from you. I'm glad we are both working during this crazy time even if it doesn't leave much time for projects. I did the cop conversion. I love not having the big coils and plug wires. Wow, 1650 cfm, for duel turbos, right? I'm finishing the interior with new custom carpet to take care of my console delete, the the seat covers with new foam. More mechanicals after that. Good luck with k install.
 
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