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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was just reading the post on the OTS pistons and was hoping you guys might give me some advice! In the next few months I will be sending my stock 96 Mark VIII block out to a local builder to be built for my 62 Fairlane. (See my thread here: http://www.modularfords.com/threads/156339-Modular-in-a-62-Fairlane) I am not so sure anyone around here (Middle TN) really knows the Mod motor.

I have 01 Cobra heads, 03 Eaton Blower for the motor. My goal is around 600 crank hp, no more. I really do not know much about building engines! These pistons sound like the way to go. Having said that, does anyone have any advice on the right crank, rods and compression ratio, and max boost?

Thanks!
 

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I was just reading the post on the OTS pistons and was hoping you guys might give me some advice! In the next few months I will be sending my stock 96 Mark VIII block out to a local builder to be built for my 62 Fairlane. (See my thread here: http://www.modularfords.com/threads/156339-Modular-in-a-62-Fairlane) I am not so sure anyone around here (Middle TN) really knows the Mod motor.

I have 01 Cobra heads, 03 Eaton Blower for the motor. My goal is around 600 crank hp, no more. I really do not know much about building engines! These pistons sound like the way to go. Having said that, does anyone have any advice on the right crank, rods and compression ratio, and max boost?

Thanks!
The component choices are pretty straightforward for the 03/04 Terminator engines - which is essentially what you are building, Herb.

Here is the checklist for Terminators up through 1000 RWHP which will sort out to about 1200 fwhp.

Crank: Stock forged Modmotor with an 8 bolt flywheel flange,

Rods: Manley H-Beam either ARP 8740 or ARP 2000 rod bolts. 8740 is more than adequate 2000 gives a greater margin of safety,

Compression Ratio: on 93 octane gasoline or better, 9:1. On E-85 or better, 11:1

Questions you did not ask but should;

Injectors: FRPP 60# with USCAR connector for gas only. For ethanol FRPP 80# with USCAR connectors.

Oil Pump: FRPP GT500 or 3V Modmotor ( they are essentially the same). Use billet gears.

Fasteners: ARP mains, ARP 2000 head studs,

Camshafts: '96-'98 Cobra Intakes and Exhausts 204˚ intake and 196˚ exhaust durations 0.398 lift

Camshaft Bolts: ARP 2000 12mm MiniCooper see this post for details, click here => Cam Bolts

Cam Drive Kit: Cloyes Hex-Adjust buy the kit, click here => Cloyes Kit and replace the secondary drive chains with Ford OEM chains

Throttle Body: Check out VMP's SBTB offerings for high flow, high quality and competitive pricing. Click here => SBTB

MAF: My preference is the Pro-M 92 from Pro-M Racing. Click here =>Pro-M 92

Last but certainly not least the Gibtec Modmotor piston see here => Billet Pistons

As Jim (showme cobra) hinted at I am the guy who spec'd out the pistons that Gibtec has produced for the guys on this site. The pistons IMO are quite frankly the best piston available anywhere at any cost for the supercharged version of the engine.

Use the cook book above and you will be quite happy.

Ed
 

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There aren't any shops in Middle TN that I would trust to build one of these engines for you, if I was stateside long enough I would certainly offer my help. Do yourself a favor and learn to do it yourself, no one cares more about your engine build more than you do. Of course there are shops out there that have a great track record when it comes to these motors, but why not take the time to learn and do it yourself, aside from the machine work obviously. Plenty of knowledge right here on this forum if you have questions and more than enough people willing to give advice.
 

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Herb, Jim (Helomech74) is dead on target! Learn and do it yourself! It is by far the best possible solution to pursue in these situations. His comments about people on the site willing to help could not be more true. Moreover, I would be willing to bet by the time you have all your parts together for the build, Jim may well be stateside again and potentially available to help coach you through the process.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I already have the 01 heads with cams. Any reason I shouldn't stick with those cams?
 

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I already have the 01 heads with cams. Any reason I shouldn't stick with those cams?
They'll work, they just don't have the additional cooling Ford added to the '03/04 Mach I and Cobra heads for exhaust port cooling. There was also the issue of the 'head tick' problem that supposedly had some type of a running ECO added to later production heads to correct it.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
some type of a running ECO

Ed
I'm sorry, "running ECO"?
Also, the 01 heads i have are the ones with the spark plug thread issues - not enough threads. How big of an issue has this been?
 

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ECO is Detroit talk for Engineering Change Order, Herb, where a design change comes out of engineering and instead of waiting for the next model year to implement it, they do it as a running change during the current model year production run.


Ed
 

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I'm sorry, "running ECO"?
Also, the 01 heads i have are the ones with the spark plug thread issues - not enough threads. How big of an issue has this been?
Didn't mean to ignore the spark plug question, Herb.

While the heads are off you want to use the Lock-N-Stitch Full Torque thread repair system. I have attached a copy of their own write up on how to do the repair below.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks! I will add that to all the studying I need to do!
 

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Ed's list up there is spot on!

I will, however, have to add a few things to it for the Aluminator or Teksid blocks. The first is the upgraded dowel pins. Not absolutely necessary if you aren't a hard core racer, but the extra insurance from the beefier pins is a wise investment. Here's my Aluminator block with them added:

http://www.modularfords.com/threads/235705-NEW-One-Time-Use-Drill-Fixture

Direct link: http://cobraengineering.net/drill fixture.html

Second, the upgraded secondary tensioner on the passenger side (to put the chain tension on the upper side where it is needed):

http://cobraengineering.net/tensioner.html

The modification takes about a minute - another great product from James!

Last, add a Stewart water pump to the mix! James Hellermen can also get you a great deal since his shop is right across the street (I think mine was $125 shipped).

Here's some info from my own site on them compared to the stock ones with the OEM stuff: http://www.terminator-cobra.com/cooling.htm#Water_pump

While you are at it - thrown in a 170° thermostat. I sell them for $35 shipped - no need to pay over $60!
 

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Thanks Joe, I overlooked each of those items and they are all important to have.


Ed
 

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Ed, you are so busy helping everyone out, that we all understand if something gets forgotten here and there;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Okay, I am getting close to making decision if I am going to take Ed's advice and do this mostly on my own! I have never built an engine before, only messed with bolt on parts and changing cams out, and definitely not one of these beasts. I have been reading Joe's thread and Jon's on his Teksid build. Green is what I am!

I need a little beginners advice and direction. I have an untouched 96 Mark VIII block. I have removed the Mark VIII B heads, and test fitted the heads and Eaton to verify it all fits under my hood. I intend to buy all new internals for it to handle the Eaton supercharger using the info from Ed, Joe and Jon. But Where do I start? Should I go ahead and disassemble the short block and take the block to a machine shop, or leave it together and let them do that? (Does it matter?) What do I want the machine shop to do or not do?

The heads are from an 01 Cobra. They are assembled, but what should I have checked out? What do I need to specify to the shop? Can they handle drilling out the cams for the larger bolts?

Similar with the Eaton. Can a typical machine shop check it out for me or do I need to send it to some place specific to have it checked out?

Before I go buying any new parts, I want to make sure what I have is viable!

Not going racing, this will just be strong street motor and I want it to life a long and happy life!

Thanks!
 

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Okay, I am getting close to making decision if I am going to take Ed's advice and do this mostly on my own! I have never built an engine before, only messed with bolt on parts and changing cams out, and definitely not one of these beasts. I have been reading Joe's thread and Jon's on his Teksid build. Green is what I am!

I need a little beginners advice and direction. I have an untouched 96 Mark VIII block. I have removed the Mark VIII B heads, and test fitted the heads and Eaton to verify it all fits under my hood. I intend to buy all new internals for it to handle the Eaton supercharger using the info from Ed, Joe and Jon. But Where do I start? Should I go ahead and disassemble the short block and take the block to a machine shop, or leave it together and let them do that? (Does it matter?) What do I want the machine shop to do or not do?

The heads are from an 01 Cobra. They are assembled, but what should I have checked out? What do I need to specify to the shop? Can they handle drilling out the cams for the larger bolts?

Similar with the Eaton. Can a typical machine shop check it out for me or do I need to send it to some place specific to have it checked out?

Before I go buying any new parts, I want to make sure what I have is viable!

Not going racing, this will just be strong street motor and I want it to life a long and happy life!

Thanks!
Herb,

I'm over in Germany right now and Internet access is a bit sketchier than I anticipated. I will be back in the US Thursday so I'll be able to comment more then. BTW simple answer is yo disassemble everything. It is a good exercise and allows yo to see how everything should fit together on reassembly.

More on Thursday. Be sure to visit Joe's page on heads it will be helpful in giving you your cylinder head 'seal legs' - there are quite a few castings.

Ed
 

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Herb,

Definitely disassemble the doner engine to get a good look at all the hard parts. This will also give you an indication of how well the engine was taken care of. Take it down to the bare block and find a reputable machine shop to answer all your questions. Preferable a machine shop with experience in mod motors :)

Jon
 

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Similar with the Eaton. Can a typical machine shop check it out for me or do I need to send it to some place specific to have it checked out?

Before I go buying any new parts, I want to make sure what I have is viable!

Not going racing, this will just be strong street motor and I want it to life a long and happy life!

Thanks!
There is nothing to an Eaton, so taking them apart is simple. Otherwise, there are a few shops where you can get OEM parts or even have them rebuilt if you prefer.

Pics of an opened Eaton and those links:

http://www.terminator-cobra.com/engine.htm#Ported_Eaton_

Herb,

I'm over in Germany right now and Internet access is a bit sketchier than I anticipated. I will be back in the US Thursday so I'll be able to comment more then. BTW simple answer is yo disassemble everything. It is a good exercise and allows yo to see how everything should fit together on reassembly.

More on Thursday. Be sure to visit Joe's page on heads it will be helpful in giving you your cylinder head 'seal legs' - there are quite a few castings.

Ed
Was going to give you a shout today, Ed - passing through SFO this afternoon. Just my luck you are out yourself. Hopefully will catch you over the weekend, then! Enjoy Germany, too. Always loved my visits there!

Herb,

Definitely disassemble the doner engine to get a good look at all the hard parts. This will also give you an indication of how well the engine was taken care of. Take it down to the bare block and find a reputable machine shop to answer all your questions. Preferable a machine shop with experience in mod motors :)

Jon
Definitely pull it all apart yourself - it's a no-brainer as well. Dealing with a machine shop, on the other hand, can be quite the adventure!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Machine Shop

So far this is what I think i hear:
Go ahead and tear it down. Check for any visible signs of trouble. I assume I need to keep track of the the caps and what not, but as for the other internals I am not re-using (pretty much everything! Pistons, Rods, Crank, oil pump, etc) don't fuss with them.
Take it to the machine shop for a full check up to make sure the deck is flat, the cylinders are in good shape, and do what ever machining is required. Then I will have all the necessary specs to order the pistons, bearings, etc.

Is there anything that they should NOT do to the block?
anything that they should absolutely do to the block?
 
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