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Discussion Starter · #221 ·
Computer

When I started this odyssey of putting the 4.6 in my 62 fairlane, I planned on just dropping the stock Mark VIII engine, trans, and computer into it. Then I decided to convert it to coil on plugs, so I bought the conversion harness, COP valve covers and ditched the two coil packs. Since the computer uses the waste spark, I would still be firing two coil packs at once, one in waste mode.

I already have the computer location figured out and the harness routed through the 62 fire wall and the harness well on its way to being complete. I really do not want to spend more money on a different computer and wiring harness, or the effort to re-engineer it for my fairlane.

My question for today, does anyone see any issues using the waste spark PCM on my engine?
 

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When I started this odyssey of putting the 4.6 in my 62 fairlane, I planned on just dropping the stock Mark VIII engine, trans, and computer into it. Then I decided to convert it to coil on plugs, so I bought the conversion harness, COP valve covers and ditched the two coil packs. Since the computer uses the waste spark, I would still be firing two coil packs at once, one in waste mode.

I already have the computer location figured out and the harness routed through the 62 fire wall and the harness well on its way to being complete. I really do not want to spend more money on a different computer and wiring harness, or the effort to re-engineer it for my fairlane.

My question for today, does anyone see any issues using the waste spark PCM on my engine?
Herb, You are supercharged which means that the AMZ1 or AMZ2 calibration strategy from Ford would be the most useful / complete for a supercharged engine like yours. If I am not mistaken (and I might be but I don't think so), the Ford engineers built all the calibration strategy code into the AMZ(x) strategies to support OEM COPs. Because the software logic is already there to sequentially fire the plugs you should just have to connect them to the proper pin outs on the ECU.

If you use an AMZ(x) calibration strategy you will benefit from all the additional logic Ford built into the strategy for the supercharged Terminator engines they sold in '03 and '04. A calibration strategy for a n/a engine, while possible to use, lacks some of the supercharged application features Ford began to build into the ECU logic with the 03/04 cars. That said you still have to upgrade the ECU to one of the later AMZ(x) strategies. Whose tuning software are you using?

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #224 ·
I have not decided on a tuner at this stage.
 

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I have not decided on a tuner at this stage.
If you use a tuner then you will not have to concern yourself over any of this stuff, Herb. If you tune it yourself then things will get a little more challenging, hence the question about the tuning software.

Ed
 

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There's no issue with running COP in waste spark, that's how my car is currently setup and I'm making some pretty decent power with it. Some folks have said they had issues with spark blowout with high boost or high rpm when setup like that, but I've yet to experience that problem with my car. I built my own harness so I know the connections are solid, I'm can't comment on any of the harnesses that are being sold online.
 

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Discussion Starter · #227 ·
Onward and upward. Now to just pick a tuner, which I knew I always had to do!
 

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Apologies Herb, I rotated the wrong pic. Put the original back and I'll properly fix it.


Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #232 ·
It's been a while. Finally back at it.

The subject right now I need advise/direction on is the PCV system. I have a Teksid block, 03 Cobra supercharger. I don't have the stock lines that come from the bottom of the blower, tee'd off to the vacuum source and over to the drivers valve cover, and apparently it is not available. (Part number 2R3Z-6C324-AA). I need to check if the angle fitting on the bottom of the blower intake clears the Teksid valley. Assuming it does, can I just run a PCV hose from it to a standard T fitting? I assume there is nothing special in the part number.

Recommendation on oil separator set ups?
 

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Discussion Starter · #233 ·
Question #2: On the inner cooler, the two short tubes with O-rings do not seem to fit very tight into the block or the cooler. Is that correct? I don't want this thing leaking after I get it all back together. I looked on James site but I see he does not have the upgrade available at this time that fixed any possible issues with leaks.
 

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It's been a while. Finally back at it.

The subject right now I need advise/direction on is the PCV system. I have a Teksid block, 03 Cobra supercharger. I don't have the stock lines that come from the bottom of the blower, tee'd off to the vacuum source and over to the drivers valve cover, and apparently it is not available. (Part number 2R3Z-6C324-AA). I need to check if the angle fitting on the bottom of the blower intake clears the Teksid valley. Assuming it does, can I just run a PCV hose from it to a standard T fitting? I assume there is nothing special in the part number.

Recommendation on oil separator set ups?
Herb,

Do yourself a favor and do not use the Positive Crankcase venting function. The amount of oil misting that it delivers to the blower and intercooler, even with a good separator is astounding and it gets all over the rotors and intercooler and then puddles in the bottom of the manifold.

The tap in the bottom of the manifold is on the boost side of the blower and therefore not PCV. It can be plugged eliminating any possible interference with the valley in your block. Use one of the flush fitting pipe plugs for maximum clearance.

Your actual PCV is the gizmo in the front of the passenger side valve cover that plugs into your intake tube going to the throttle body. I would put a plug in the intake tubing and use an air/oil separator attached with a hose and fittings to the old PCV opening in the valve cover. Don't forget to route the PCV tap at the back of the driverside valve cover to the same air/oil separator.

Ed
 

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Question #2: On the inner cooler, the two short tubes with O-rings do not seem to fit very tight into the block or the cooler. Is that correct? I don't want this thing leaking after I get it all back together. I looked on James site but I see he does not have the upgrade available at this time that fixed any possible issues with leaks.
Two choices here, order new o-rings from Ford. I used to have the industrial part # but it is buried in some digital safe keeping file I have forgotten. Put the new Ford O-rings in and be happy. If you want, measure the new o-rings when you get them and go to McMaster-Carr to associate an industrial part number with their size for future replacements.

The second choice is wait for James to finish up his new design. It will be a bit simpler and both nicer and overall better.


Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #236 ·
Herb,

Do yourself a favor and do not use the Positive Crankcase venting function. The amount of oil misting that it delivers to the blower and intercooler, even with a good separator is astounding and it gets all over the rotors and intercooler and then puddles in the bottom of the manifold.

The tap in the bottom of the manifold is on the boost side of the blower and therefore not PCV. It can be plugged eliminating any possible interference with the valley in your block. Use one of the flush fitting pipe plugs for maximum clearance.

Your actual PCV is the gizmo in the front of the passenger side valve cover that plugs into your intake tube going to the throttle body. I would put a plug in the intake tubing and use an air/oil separator attached with a hose and fittings to the old PCV opening in the valve cover. Don't forget to route the PCV tap at the back of the driverside valve cover to the same air/oil separator.

Ed
That does make sense on a non-smog compliant vehicle. I was not thinking in that vain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #237 ·
Two choices here, order new o-rings from Ford. I used to have the industrial part # but it is buried in some digital safe keeping file I have forgotten. Put the new Ford O-rings in and be happy. If you want, measure the new o-rings when you get them and go to McMaster-Carr to associate an industrial part number with their size for future replacements.

The second choice is wait for James to finish up his new design. It will be a bit simpler and both nicer and overall better.


Ed
They just don't feel as tight as I think they should. Just wondering what they should feel like. I have waited this long, I guess I wait a little longer!
 

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They should have a firm but smooth push required to assemble all the pieces together, Herb. If they do not, then age and heat have deteriorated the o-ring and they should be replaced. Use a light amount of lubricant like vasoline when you assemble so the ring is not cut or damaged.


Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #239 ·
What to do with knock sensors? went back and read posts on the Vampire. Is that still the way to go? Have not seen any recent posts about it. It looks like the actual sensor can be mounted anywhere on the block and not under the intake.
 

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What to do with knock sensors? went back and read posts on the Vampire. Is that still the way to go? Have not seen any recent posts about it. It looks like the actual sensor can be mounted anywhere on the block and not under the intake.
I still believe the Vampire is the best to use and can pay for itself from one mishap.

ks
 
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