Mustang and Ford Performance Forums banner
21 - 31 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
It has been my experience (of 19 years of working on cars professionally) and the experience of every dealer ship I have ever worked at in my life. That you need to hold the coolant in the radiator in order draw the air around the hot coolant in order to cool the coolant down then when the motor reached the stated temperature set forth by the thermostat that it will then open forcing the fresh coolant in to the motor and talking the hot coolant out of the motor to the radiator where it would be trapped so the fans can draw cool air around it in order to cool the coolant down do it can repeat the possess again .

If you have remove your t state and it does not over heat then you don't drive your car much or quite possibly you are one of the most luckiest people I have ever heard of however to offer that as a fix or as advice on this forum is wrong. We do not give out incorrect advice on how to band aid your car together. And I personally don't recommend this to anyone trying to fix an over heating problem. However it is your car so do as you wish

My advice would be to do the following.
Remove your current thermostat
Then take a rather small drill bit 9/64th and drill 2 holes on the outer rim of the thermostat 180* apart. This prevents air to be trapped on top pf the thermostat not allowing the thermostat to open, thus causing over heating. Then open your expansion tank and remove the cross over plug. I then want you to fill the entire motor from the cross over plug you will see the expansion tank begin to fill when you reach the desired level in the expansion tank re-place the cap on the tank and continue to fill the the cross over pipe until you can no longer put any more coolant in the pipe then re install the plug. That is the proper way to fill and the little tricks I have done to insure that there is no air in the system. And the car never over heats. I live in Phoenix AZ and yesterday was 115* so I am quite sure if it works here it will work where ever you are at as well

Good luck and keep us posted on what the out come is if you need me to go in to more detail then please call me 602 269 8955
I agree with you 100%. Not running a t-stat is in no way optimal, and is the reason - didn't reccomend that others do it.
Also, thank you for the tips.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,877 Posts
IMHO if your running a Cobra system you need a T-stat for proper operation, or as Dan suggested some form of restriction. The beauty of the T-stat is that it regulates necessary hot coolant flow to the radiator when required.

Another issue is that if you take out the t-stat you completely open up the area for the bypass. Once the bypass is opened think about where your coolant will want to go. (not through the radiator)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
I have a completly stock cooling system... temps will run around 190 cruising

I tried running the Hypertech 160 and it actually ran hotter, around 200

I then tried no stat and it was in the mid 190's...

So I have the stock 180 stat back in.

If you want cooler temps, you need a bigger radiator.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I have a completly stock cooling system... temps will run around 190 cruising

I tried running the Hypertech 160 and it actually ran hotter, around 200

I then tried no stat and it was in the mid 190's...

So I have the stock 180 stat back in.

If you want cooler temps, you need a bigger radiator.
My system with no t-stat sees the same 190* that it saw with the 180* t-stat installed.

INFO DIRECTLY FROM FORD:
Thermostat Opening Temperatures​
Starts to open (4.6L 2V) 87-93​
°C (192-199°F)
Starts to open (3.8L) 86.7-90.6
°C (189-196°F)
Starts to open (Cobra) 80-83
°C (175-182°F)
Fully open 104
°C (219°F)

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,496 Posts
The myth about cars needing a thermostat to act as a restriction may have been true back in the day of small copper-brass radiators but with these cars you probably wont be able to get the engine warm enough without a thermostat.

I say its a myth about the restriction because thats not how cooling works. Take a frying pan off the stove top and run it under water. Do you want to restrict the water so the water can absorb all the heat it can? No. Of course not. You want as much water flow as you can possibly get in order to cool that frying pan.

Empirical data agrees with that too. My car struggles to reach operating temp on the street without a thermostat. I regularly run wtihout one on the racetrack as the Evans tstats have stuck shut on me a few times. I plug the bypass so all coolant goes through the radiator. This gives me maximum cooling capacity for the volume of coolant used.

Thermostats drive me nuts but I wouldn't run without one on the street. Not because the car would overheat, but because the car would fail to get warm enough. Most engine wear occurs when the engine is not yet warm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,770 Posts
The myth about cars needing a thermostat to act as a restriction may have been true back in the day of small copper-brass radiators but with these cars you probably wont be able to get the engine warm enough without a thermostat.

I say its a myth about the restriction because thats not how cooling works. Take a frying pan off the stove top and run it under water. Do you want to restrict the water so the water can absorb all the heat it can? No. Of course not. You want as much water flow as you can possibly get in order to cool that frying pan.

Empirical data agrees with that too. My car struggles to reach operating temp on the street without a thermostat. I regularly run wtihout one on the racetrack as the Evans tstats have stuck shut on me a few times. I plug the bypass so all coolant goes through the radiator. This gives me maximum cooling capacity for the volume of coolant used.

Thermostats drive me nuts but I wouldn't run without one on the street. Not because the car would overheat, but because the car would fail to get warm enough. Most engine wear occurs when the engine is not yet warm.
i dissagree
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I have to respectfully disagree. :naww: I understand your theory and concern, and agree with you that it is not the best idea ever, but real life is far from theoretical. Have you forgotten that our cars have electric radiator fans that only run when temperatures command it, and can be adjusted by any tuner. I live in Texas, and drive in the 100+ degree heat all the time, with 0 issues. My car hasn't had a Thermostat in it for a long time, and has never "overheated". It takes it about 3 extra minutes to come to normal temp, but I use German Castrol Syntec 0w, so I doubt that my cold oil is hurting my performance. My only concern about not running a thermostat is that the added flow + my head cooling mod may cause premature heater core failure, which is already a problem with mustangs in general. (This post is not meant to offend or personally attack; just give another view on the subject)
I have to agree with you I have a 94 GT manual... I haven't had a thermostat in mine in over 2 years.. I will say it's not my daily driver but I have taken that car on road trips to car shows 5 hrs one show and 7 hrs another and have yet to overheat or have any problems period for matter I don't see any change I performance but no problems what so ever... Not trying to one up anyone or say I know it all but I do have over 11 years as a Crain ford employee so I do speak knowledge just saying.... 0.02 worth
 
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
Top